Acrylic Finishing

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
M

masteele64

Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2008
Messages
11
Location
Conway, Ar, USA.
I just turned my first acrylic pen and had a little bit of a learning curve after about 3 blowouts but learned by my mistakes. I wet sanded through the MM 12000 and it looks pretty god but in the reight light you can see small scratches. I see that most people are using some kind of plastic polish to finish acrylic. My question, does anybody know of some kind of plastic polish that I can by locally at lowes, walmart, hardware store, hobby shop, etc? I hate waiting for mail order all the time?

Mark
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Originally posted by masteele64

I just turned my first acrylic pen and had a little bit of a learning curve after about 3 blowouts but learned by my mistakes. I wet sanded through the MM 12000 and it looks pretty god but in the reight light you can see small scratches. I see that most people are using some kind of plastic polish to finish acrylic. My question, does anybody know of some kind of plastic polish that I can by locally at lowes, walmart, hardware store, hobby shop, etc? I hate waiting for mail order all the time?

Mark
Click to expand...

Mark if you can still see fine scratches after going through 12,000 mm, then you are not doing a good job sanding and polishing probably won't take out the scratches you are seeing!

To explain my thoughts and this is NOT to suggest starting with 150, but just to dramatize a point.... If you started sanding with 150 grit you are making some deep scratches. Moving up to 220 SHOULD remove all the scratches left by the 150 then progressing up through the grits with each grit removing the previous grits scratches you will have a nice scratch free surface since the 12,000 is removing all the 8,000 scratches right and those would be hard to see.

I think what you are seeing are scratches farther down the chain that one or more grits did not properly remove because you moved on to the next grit too soon.

I suspect the reason people have scratch problems is that they either jump grits, spend too little time with each grit, don't wipe off dust particles between grits or a little of all the above.

To directly answer your question, I used Flitz polish before moving on the the polish sold here. It is available at your local Lowes or probably Home Depot or Ace hardware stores.
 
I use the Novus stuff. You might go by your local airport if they have a pilot/aircraft shop and ask if they carry it. I bought the entire 3 part set for $9.00. Later I talked to a friend who bought just one bottle the same size and it was $5.00.

But I agree with the above post. After each turning with each grit just stop the lathe and rub horizontally, then start the next one after the vertical scratches are removed.
 
"Mark if you can still see fine scratches after going through 12,000 mm, then you are not doing a good job sanding and polishing probably won't take out the scratches you are seeing!"

Actually, I've had blanks that showed thin lines no matter what. A plastic polish (I use Hut) usually solves the problem when used as a last step (post MM12000 for me).
 
Originally posted by Sfolivier

"Mark if you can still see fine scratches after going through 12,000 mm, then you are not doing a good job sanding and polishing probably won't take out the scratches you are seeing!"

Actually, I've had blanks that showed thin lines no matter what. A plastic polish (I use Hut) usually solves the problem when used as a last step (post MM12000 for me).
Click to expand...
Are you saying that your polish removes scratches that micro mesh 12000 won't? If that's the case, why even use micro mesh? Think about it.



I can see polish removing
 
I don't use any plastic polish at all, but go right to the buffing wheels after sanding to MM12000.

One of the mistakes I made early on was that I was not cleaning the blank after each grit... now I do and don't get those mysterious scratches any more. I use a brush, then a paper towel after each and every grit. You might think this takes too much time - I did - but it sure is quicker than having to back to 400 grit and starting over :D
 
Marc,
Are you saying clean between grits while wet sanding or are you dry sanding?
I've seen Steven Russell dry sand acrylics w/ the micromesh at a woodworking show. A very light touch is required for this he said. Thanks for any input. Very nice pens on your web site BTW!
 
Originally posted by Hosspen

Marc,
Are you saying clean between grits while wet sanding or are you dry sanding?
I've seen Steven Russell dry sand acrylics w/ the micromesh at a woodworking show. A very light touch is required for this he said. Thanks for any input. Very nice pens on your web site BTW!
Click to expand...

Thanks!

I am dry sanding, very light pressure, and removing the MM often so as not to overheat. In the finer grits of the MM I wipe with a paper towel, but in the coarser grits I clean with a brush, then wipe with a paper towel... seems to work OK... I usually don't get those scratches that make me go back to the coarser grits and start over. I also use Abranet for the coarser grits and it performs well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom