A mini miter saw that can cut a 3/4” acrylic blank?

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mikeschn

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Jan 6, 2016
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So I have the little mini miter saw that PennState sells, but it won't cut acrylic. First of all there is not enough torque in the motor. And secondly it's won't travel through something 3/4" thick, as it hits the housing. So what's the fix? Do I 3d print my own saw? or do I stick with the band saw and the sander? I don't think a 7 1/4" miter saw is the answer, because I don't want my fingers that close to the blade. Thoughts?
 
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I don't have the exact answer for you but a suggestion - if you are concerned about the fingers being too close, A table saw with a sled along with some home made jigs and hold down clamps allow a large number of possible cuts while keeping your fingers reasonably safe - all depending upon ones safety mindset.

I looked on Amazon and there are 7 1/4" table saws but I don't know the quality or affordability for you. I will say a table saw with sled offers more possibilities with glass smooth cuts if set up right. I have a 14" bandsaw and it does great with the right blade and jig, but I still like the jigs on a sled on a table saw for most cuts.
 
I don't know if it is a bad product photo or not, but the teeth are pointed toward you. This is normal for a table saw, but not a miter saw. This means that it likely rotates opposite a typical miter say. It will want to push the material toward you and I don't like that design.

I have a 14" band saw, a 10" table saw, and a 12" miter saw and when cutting blanks to length, I ALWAYS use the band saw.
 
There are two immediate things that jump out to me that would make me run from buying that:
1. That blade is on backwards.
2. It is NOT a "Sliding" and "Compound" miter saw in that picture.

Just saw the video - the clamp rotates and slides , but that does not make it a "sliding compound" miter saw. It is totally strange in that it has not back fence and depends on one using the clamping device. Beware of this - as you rotate it for a 45° cut, the clamp is rotating it far away from the cut line, making it impossible to cut anything that is less than 2 or 3 inches long.

I did notice that in the video, he did put the blade on correctly.

There ARE bench top saws that do not take up lots of space. If you have a Home Depot or Lowes nearby, go and look for a Compact portable job site saw and see how big or small they are. If you can find one that would fit on your bench, then look online and YouTube for how to make a sled for your saw. You might even make two or three: one for straight cuts and cutoffs; one for different angles only and this might be enough. A third one for specialty items later. But a good hold down on a table saw sled will work wonders. Get a good blade and replace the original TS blade.

When I lived overseas, about 16 - 17 years ago, I bought a good 7" circular saw and put it into home made base with the blade sticking up. It looked dangerous with no cover. However I made several versions of the sled with covers over the blade and hold downs to keep my fingers safe. I was able to make repeatable cuts, small pieces, almost any angle, very thin pieces etc. You tube has a plethora of ideas along this line.

Also, a key is getting a very good blade on an OK saw.
 
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My opinion, stay away from any of those mini saws. Just look at the price and it will tell you what quality it is and at $67 dollars I would run as far away as I could. I say stick with the bandsaw. Not sure what saw you have but sounds like a bench top. If I may suggest switch to a metal cutting blade if cutting alot of plastics. Jigs are something very easy to make and you can make with hold downs. they sell all size hold downs so very easy to incorporate. The Bauer line at harbor Freight is getting good reviews so if there are tools in that line maybe worth a look. Their scrollsaw has been so far getting good reviews and they have a good review. I am only bringing them up because of price and a littler better quality. to me i would never buy a tool that has a motor from HF but that is just me.
 
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