A chop/miter small miter saw

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

PTsideshow

Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2011
Messages
1,033
Location
Macomb County Michigan
I posted a question in penturning about some new products and a mini chop/miter saw. I have the first edition HF 2" minisaw, I find that I have too heavy of a hand when cutting materials with it. It is great for small brass tubing, wood, and plastic material.

After looking around on the internet at what is available for a reasonable price. They have this saw on amazon as a factory reconditioned one for only $10.00 cheaper than what home despot sells a new one for. I also bought a Diablo non ferrous metals,plastic,laminated flooring etc. carbide 56 tooth. 7¼"dia. T

The only thing I don't like about the saw is the dust bag and chute doesn't work worth a crap. The chute tube plugs up@ the discharge. Other than that it cut a 2x4 in one pass and that blade did a very smooth job both with the grain and across. I have made around 30 cuts with it.

I think this will be a good size for pen work it is a 9 amp motor and has a nice clamp to hold the wood when cutting. It probably won't bog down when cutting. It also looks to have a removable/replaceable throat plate, so a custom one can be made to keep the small bits from dropping or jamming up. This blade was about half the cost of the saw. I haven't fine tuned it yet, the laser line is about as good outside as any of the others. It is light in weight and has a small foot print it will work, has a permanent mount carry handle on the back of the saw. It also has a chart of the compound miters for up to 10 sides, in 5° increases for us non fine woodworkers

I think this will be a great small item blank work saw. I have a 10" Porter Cable/laser cut on a a porta stand. It is a big pain in the seat cushion to set up and use in small spaces.
It is a Ryobi 7¼"Compound miter saw Model# TS1141
DSCF0001-2.jpg

DSCF0002-2.jpg

:clown:
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Ditch the bag and make it so you can hook up your shop vac to it!! I have the same saw, check your zero setting, mine was off from the lock in point. I also find this saw a little to powerful for small cuttings, and the clamps are placed to far away from the blade to safely cut pen blanks :eek:. Great for 2x4s and large pieces. Jim S
 
Ditch the bag and make it so you can hook up your shop vac to it!! I have the same saw, check your zero setting, mine was off from the lock in point. I also find this saw a little to powerful for small cuttings, and the clamps are placed to far away from the blade to safely cut pen blanks. Great for 2x4s and large pieces. Jim S
 
Ditch the bag and make it so you can hook up your shop vac to it!! I have the same saw, check your zero setting, mine was off from the lock in point. I also find this saw a little to powerful for small cuttings, and the clamps are placed to far away from the blade to safely cut pen blanks. Great for 2x4s and large pieces. Jim S
Roger on the vac hook up the bag really sucks but not as good as the vac :biggrin: same on the clamp but I was thinking of using them to hold a cutting stage in place for the smaller items, but that is a winter project.
:clown:
 
I'd make a couple of suggestions regarding the saw pictured other than what's been suggested to double-check its accuracy:

1. Make some good hold-downs so you can keep your hands well clear of the blade while still controlling small blanks.
Several types have been posted on the forum and I'm sure many others can be found by Google.
Here's an old thread on the subject:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f30/compound-miter-saw-jigs-34494/

2. Make a zero-tolerance throat plate (ZTP) to replace the throat plate on the saw.
The large opening provided with the saw as purchased is a recipe for disaster;
it's prone to kickback and throwing small pieces here and there.
A ZTP works wonders to help keep thin slices where they belong -- sitting next to the blade on the saw's surface.

3. When making thin slices, small offcuts, and for more accurate joint lines:
After you make a cut, don't lift the blade. Allow it to stop while it's buried in the throat plate (the new ZTP you maded :biggrin:) before lifting the blade.

Enjoy your new saw and be safe.
 
Back
Top Bottom