3rd pen - Need critique.

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mainiac

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Ok, I need some critique on this pen. Primarily the finish as it's not quite right.
I used thin CA, about 6 coats and then went through MM to 12000. Then buffed it. The bottom barrel appears to have some small pits in it. Any thoughts.

Dick
 

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Well, I can't see any pits, but then I can't see great.

Generally, if you get a "pit" in your CA finish, it was a bubble. USUALLY this would be caused by attempting to put on too thick a layer. You used thin CA--then I have no idea how you could muster a bubble. Unless the glue is old and more "gel-ly" than thin.

When you saw the condition, before assembling the pen, you could have sanded it down to beneath the "pit". IF you still had a CA coating (did not have to sand to bare wood to get beneath the pit), then you could sand to a shine and call it done. OR, once the pit is removed, build up the CA finish again.

Hope this helps!!
 
Ok, I need some critique on this pen. Primarily the finish as it's not quite right.
I used thin CA, about 6 coats and then went through MM to 12000. Then buffed it. The bottom barrel appears to have some small pits in it. Any thoughts.

Dick


I think you are sanding too lightly. Start at 600 or 800, don't be afraid to give it some decent pressure. If you sand through, your CA is not thick enough.

Hope this helps, keep us tuned in!:smile:
 
I know when I started using CA finish, I would get pits from depressions or defects in the wood, thinking the CA would just fill them in as I built it up (which it doesnt). Then someone mentioned using sanding dust and thin CA to make a slurry that fills in all the low spots before going through your sanding process. Never had a problem since.
 
What are you sanding to before starting the CA finish? Your finish is only as goos as the surface you have to work with.

If you are winding up with pits and pinholes and stuff like that, you need to fill them in with CA, and then continue applying the finish.

When I start sanding my CA finish, I start with 400 grit. I go very lightly until all of the ridges are down. I do this two or three times, applying more coats of CA in between. Then I sand all the way to finish.
 
I see tearout in the lower blank. If that right, then it's not the finish. Its the turning/sanding.

Tearout happens easily on burl because the grain is wild. You just need to start with a lower grid sand paper and get all the tearout clear, before moving up the grits. Otherwsie that is a beauty!
 
I know when I started using CA finish, I would get pits from depressions or defects in the wood, thinking the CA would just fill them in as I built it up (which it doesnt). Then someone mentioned using sanding dust and thin CA to make a slurry that fills in all the low spots before going through your sanding process. Never had a problem since.

Sanding dust is a great technique, but isnt so good on a segmented blank with contrasting woods.

CA will fill in pits - I've done it. You just need to use enough, then take it back down. I start with a coat or 2 of thin to seal the wood, then build up with medium. IF just one (or few) you can also put a drop of medium in the pit and hit it with accellerator.

When I build up a think layer of CA to cover imperfections or fill open grain, I often use a sharp scraper (woodchuck pen pro in my case) to take off the excess CA. But, I wait about an hour after the build up before doing so to be sure all the layers are cured. Once I take it back down to perfectly smooth, I apply a few more coats and finish as normal.
 
I have had the same problem you are having when I first started using CA. I have now done close to 300 pens and 80% or more of them were done using CA. I use BLO/CA for my finishes. If I get any pits, depressions, or anything it means that I need more CA. The Sawdust and CA slurry worrks great if the pits are fairly deep.
 
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