1st try at BLO/CA

[lyonsacc]

Here are a few pens from last weekend. This was my 1st try using the BLO/CA finish. Was pleasantly suprised by the results. The first is redwood lace burl. In the second picture you might be abel to see 2 pinholes in the finish. Any suggestions on filling those? Or am I stuck with taking it apart to refinish it? The second pen I am pretty sure is macassar ebony - it was a blank from a grab bag. It smelled like straw when I was turning it - made me sneeze. The last pen was my first successful shot at antler.

Thanks for all of the help and comments,
Dave

 

[plantman]

Here are a few pens from last weekend. This was my 1st try using the BLO/CA finish. Was pleasantly suprised by the results. The first is redwood lace burl. In the second picture you might be abel to see 2 pinholes in the finish. Any suggestions on filling those? Or am I stuck with taking it apart to refinish it? The second pen I am pretty sure is macassar ebony - it was a blank from a grab bag. It smelled like straw when I was turning it - made me sneeze. The last pen was my first successful shot at antler.

Thanks for all of the help and comments,
Dave

Dave; I like your pens, good fit and colors. Here are a few suggestions for you. To get rid of the pin holes take a little CA or clear nail polish hardener on the tip of a tooth pick and use just enough to fill the hole level with the surface. If it sticke up proud, take a very fine fingernail or metal file to smooth it to the surounding surface. Use a plastic polish to buff to a shiny finish. Personaly I do not like a chrome finish on a bullet pen. There are no chrome parts on a hunting rifle. Gun Metal, black, or some dark figured wood would seem a better choise. On a close up of your pens your finish looks a little dull. How far did you sand it, and how many coats of finish did you use? How did you apply the finish? These are just my thoughts and observations so don't it to heart. Jim S

 

[1080Wayne]

Jim`s suggestion on how to fill a discrete pinhole is a good one , but my interpretation of your blow-up photo is that more sanding should be done . I see the two pinholes you refer to , but I also see other small areas that are not glossy . Always check a barrel under several different lighting conditions . You will be surprised at what shows up under low incident light versus direct overhead , and daylight versus artificial .

 

[lyonsacc]

Jim,

Thanks for your comments. I agree with you about the chrome bullet pen. It was with the first batch of pen kits I bought. The redwood is much shinier than the picture shows, but the macassar ebony is flat. My process was: sand down to 600 grit. A little bit of BLO on a rag. Then hit it with a dry rag to help it dry. 2 thin coats of CA - put 3 to 5 drops on a thick paper towel/shop rag and smooth it on for about 5 to 10 seconds, wait 10 to 15 seconds and repeat. 2 medium CA coats - hold rag against pan blank and dribble about 5 to 7 drops on each blank, work it smooth for 10 to 15 seconds. Wait about a minute and repeat. Then 2 to 4 additional coats of thin CA - 3 to 5 drops onto a rag and smoothed onto the blank for a handful of seconds -waiting 15 to 20 seconds between coats. Let cure overnight. Sand with Micro Meash up to 12000. Put on a wet coat of polish and let dry for a minute ir two (lathe is not on). Then buff at a high speed with a cotton rag.

Wayne - thanks for your comments. The other side of the pen has a really good shine, but the side in the picture is a bit off. I will have to do something with the lighting where my lathe is - just 2 incandescent bulbs right now. I didn't even notice the litte pin holes until after the pen was assemble and I was in a room with more light.

Thanks for the help!!
Dave

 

[plantman]

Jim,

Thanks for your comments. I agree with you about the chrome bullet pen. It was with the first batch of pen kits I bought. The redwood is much shinier than the picture shows, but the macassar ebony is flat. My process was: sand down to 600 grit. A little bit of BLO on a rag. Then hit it with a dry rag to help it dry. 2 thin coats of CA - put 3 to 5 drops on a thick paper towel/shop rag and smooth it on for about 5 to 10 seconds, wait 10 to 15 seconds and repeat. 2 medium CA coats - hold rag against pan blank and dribble about 5 to 7 drops on each blank, work it smooth for 10 to 15 seconds. Wait about a minute and repeat. Then 2 to 4 additional coats of thin CA - 3 to 5 drops onto a rag and smoothed onto the blank for a handful of seconds -waiting 15 to 20 seconds between coats. Let cure overnight. Sand with Micro Meash up to 12000. Put on a wet coat of polish and let dry for a minute ir two (lathe is not on). Then buff at a high speed with a cotton rag.

Wayne - thanks for your comments. The other side of the pen has a really good shine, but the side in the picture is a bit off. I will have to do something with the lighting where my lathe is - just 2 incandescent bulbs right now. I didn't even notice the litte pin holes until after the pen was assemble and I was in a room with more light.

Thanks for the help!!
Dave

Dave; You mite try sanding your blank down to 12,000 to start with. Your finish is only going to be as good as your underlying base. Are you running the lathe at a low speed when you apply your finish or turning it by hand ?
I would suggest NOT using a shop towel or cotton rag to apply your finish. CA is called instant glue for a reason, if it grabs the rag, your hand could be in danger. Use some type of paper towling, if it catches it just tares and will not pull your hand into the spinning lathe. I have never used BLO so you will have to look in the library for the correct way to apply it. With the lathe running at a low speed I start with a coat of gap filling CA, holding the toweling under the blank and drip the CA unto the blank as I move the towling from left to right. One sweep with a few drops of CA should be enough, just make sure all surfaces are covered evenly. Mist with acelerator, let it spin for 5 seconds and wipe dry with clean toweling. Do not use thin CA and acelerator for your finish, it will turn cloudy or white. Repete this process 4 to 6 times or until you are happy with the results. You can add coats or sand right away, no need to wait. Speed up your lathe and go back through your MM to 12,000. Add a few drops of polish spread across your blank and use a clean piece of toweling to buff to a shine. Make sure after the first MM sanding and the last that you wipe down your blanks with a tac rag to remove any fine dust. Besides my shop lighting I have a goose neck lamp mounted over my lathe. As I turn my blanks over by hand, any imperfections will show up and can be addressed at that time. Also runnng your finger or fingernail over your blanks will bring out bumps and cracks your eye can't see. Everybody has their own method of finishing, thats just mine. I have changed my ways of doing things after reading articles in the library and seeing hints and tips from our fellow turners on this site. Thanks to all !! Jim S

 

[lyonsacc]

Thanks Jim,

I had wondered about sanding w/ MM before finishing - will try it soon. The rags I use are a real thick paper towel - called Rags in a Box - which is why I refer call them rags. When applying a finish I have the lathe down to 500. I use that same speed for the MM. Also haven't used any accelerator before.

Thanks for all of the help. Things keep improving each week.

Dave

 

[keithlong]

I like the chrome rifle kit. It is a good seller for me. However I make mine from the once fired nickel plated casings. Always remember that practice makes perfect. Your off to a good start.