Hut PPP and CA

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AsaThor

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Jan 31, 2013
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Detroit, MI
When I first started turning pens I picked up a couple sticks of the Hut PPP and then read about finishing with CA glue. I took that to mean polish with PPP then apply the CA glue, and have made hundreds of pens this way. I recently saw a video mentioned kind of as an aside that Hut/wax finishes were more of an alternative to using CA. Is it common for folks to do both, or have I been wasting time doing double duty by trying to finish everything twice?
 
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When I first started turning pens I picked up a couple sticks of the Hut PPP and then read about finishing with CA glue. I took that to mean polish with PPP then apply the CA glue, and have made hundreds of pens this way. I recently saw a video mentioned kind of as an aside that Hut/wax finishes were more of an alternative to using CA. Is it common for folks to do both, or have I been wasting time doing double duty by trying to finish everything twice?
I can't speak to PPP. Here is what I do. I sand it down to 320 (depends on the species of wood). Apply 2 coats of thin CA. Then one or two coats of Medium. Then I use Micro-Mesh up to 12,000 grit. It takes a little time to go up that high. But my Micro-Mesh lasts about 5 years before I need a new set. Whereas, if I buy a liquid or paste item to polish. I'm having to buy that item a lot more. but... You do you. Everyone finds their own technique, and if they get a good outcome. More power to them!
 
Try a couple pens with different blank material the way you've traditionally done it and then try a pen with just CA and see which one you like better.
 
I tried looking up the PPP. I couldn't tell if it's a friction polish like a wax or like a buffing compound. I'll assume since you use it before CA it's not a wax. Just my 2 cents I apply CA the micro mesh and use Hut Ultra Gloss to polish and buff. I also use it to polish brass shell casings. I've used Brasso on those and the Hut seems to do a better job.
 
Hut PPP is a wax friction polish. It is not durable. I am not certain how CA over PPP holds up, but I think applying PPP then CA is unnecessary. Many of the folks on this site use various CA products without prior wax treatment.
 
What are you wanting from your finish?
CA alone can give you a perfect shine and finish;
CA and BLO can give you a perfect shine,
and your experience of PPP and CA can give you a perfect shine that you want.

The point is, it depends on you and what you want. And the answer to your question is probably "Yes" you are overdoing it. I am one that often overbuilds a project because I want it to be strong. I am one that often goes the extra mile to finishing because I am experienced with it. But I occasionally try another method to see if I can arrive at the great finish with a different method and maybe quicker results - just to for the fun of it.

IF you think you are overdoing by finishing it twice, try leaving one of the processes OFF. There are thousands who use CA alone and get their perfect finish. And thousands who use CA and BLO or other and get a perfect finish. What ever you choose, just spend a little time trying and perfecting that process.
(The "thousands" listed above can be accurately described from the users on this forum alone over the years.)
 
I agree with Ed. Wax is going to prevent the ca from adhering to the wood, and will not result in a stable finish. I'm surprise that it survived sanding.
 
I suspected PPP was wax but haven't used it personally. Thanks Ed, for your clarification.

Now to the point of "wax". Wax prevents good adhesion of CA. Oily woods do the same. At some point in the future, you will probably have a problem with the CA lifting up off of the wood blank on the ends as you separate the bushing from the blank after having finished the blank with CA. It will look cloudy. That is the result of inadequate adhesion due to oil or wax. IF you are getting good adhesion and do not have the cloudy area, then good, but just beware that it will probably happen in the future.
 
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