Laminating a new trick

Kcimdrib · Feb 18, 2021

A new trick for me, having read Marks thread and excellent explanation I decided to have a go. I made the two pens today having spent two days making the blanks as per Mark's description.
I had one separate when drilling but managed to repair it with difficulty using CA.
I used Tightbond which I have always used with success but with such complicated lamination not convinced this is the best.
Anyway for my first attempt I am quite pleased.

tomtedesco · Feb 18, 2021

Well done, both are very impressive.

Kcimdrib · Feb 18, 2021

tomtedesco said:
Well done, both are very impressive.

Thank you.

Lew · Feb 18, 2021

Nice work. You can be suitably proud.

Kcimdrib · Feb 18, 2021

Lew said:
Nice work. You can be suitably proud.

Thank you.

magpens · Feb 18, 2021

Nice job of segmenting/laminating, Michael !!!

I really like this kind of "random" segmentation !!

Keep us posted as you do more, please !

Madman1978 · Feb 18, 2021

I have just stepped into segmenting as well. Tightbond is best for wood in my opinion.

KenB259 · Feb 18, 2021

Nice job. You cant get better than Titebond when it's wood to wood. I have had really good luck with Titebond translucent.

jjjaworski · Feb 18, 2021

Very nice. I saw that recent thread on random segmenting and it interested me. Right now I have just glued up the first big slab as the first step in the process. We'll see how it goes.

A bit bored at work so I am squeezing this in as part of my professional development

walshjp17 · Feb 18, 2021

I have really liked the adhesion of Titebond Quick and Thick for segmenting/laminating small wood-to-wood glue ups like pen blanks. Works fast and dries clear.

gimpy · Feb 18, 2021

Kcimdrib · Feb 18, 2021

My only comment with Tightbond when drilling take it slow it seems soften if you generate any heat but I think CA would have the same problem. Maybe Epoxy may work better, The problem seems greater at either end of the pen where you may have small pieces of wood. So when you cut your blanks try to leave more wood.
Please believe me this was my first attempt with Marks method and I am learning as I go along.
Thank you all for your comments and advice.

KenB259 · Feb 18, 2021

Heat affects all types of glue. There are lots of variables on the cause of excessive heat. Drill sharpness, drill speed, length of time drilling before extracting and cleaning off the bit. I cool my bits with DNA.

Kcimdrib · Feb 18, 2021

Thank you for your comments. You are right but having spent most of my life in engineering my drills are always sharp but yes backing of and cleaning is important so as not to generate excessive heat. I Drill on my lathe at slow speed and gentle feed rates. I may give it another go with Epoxy. Out of two pens only one failure .

KenB259 · Feb 18, 2021

That's a pretty high failure rate though.

Kcimdrib · Feb 18, 2021

KenB259 said:
That's a pretty high failure rate though.

Correct but I salvaged it with CA and continued drilling it. Its the Pen on the left in the photo.

peter1958 · Feb 18, 2021

Kcimdrib said:
A new trick for me, having read Marks thread and excellent explanation I decided to have a go. I made the two pens today having spent two days making the blanks as per Mark's description.
I had one separate when drilling but managed to repair it with difficulty using CA.
I used Tightbond which I have always used with success but with such complicated lamination not convinced this is the best.
Anyway for my first attempt I am quite pleased.

Wow, very nice pens, i must remember that for the future.

mmayo · Feb 18, 2021

There are several Titebond glues. The only one so far in my shop is TiteBond III. It is the strongest according to Titebond and in practice in my shop.

Gary Beasley · Feb 18, 2021

Be sure you are leaving the piece to cure long enough. It may seem stuck good but inside may not be finished curing which can cause failures drilling and turning.

Kcimdrib · Feb 18, 2021

peter1958 said:
Wow, very nice pens, i must remember that for the future.

So many emotions.

SteveJ · Feb 18, 2021

a 50% failure rate is high for that particular segmenting, but it will get better. You've done a great job. If you move towards smaller segments which demand perfect alignment your failure rate may go up for a while - but keep at it because along the way you will gain the experience to avoid or repair most blow outs.

Kcimdrib · Feb 18, 2021

Gary Beasley said:
Be sure you are leaving the piece to cure long enough. It may seem stuck good but inside may not be finished curing which can cause failures drilling and turning.

I did leave for 24 hourrs and the bottle marked up Tightbond Original.

Kcimdrib · Feb 18, 2021

SteveJ said:
a 50% failure rate is high for that particular segmenting, but it will get better. You've done a great job. If you move towards smaller segments which demand perfect alignment your failure rate may go up for a while - but keep at it because along the way you will gain the experience to avoid or repair most blow outs.

Thank you I will persevere and I have lots of time thanks to Covid and glue.

Gary Beasley · Feb 18, 2021

Kcimdrib said:
I did leave for 24 hourrs and the bottle marked up Tightbond Original.

Did you also clean any oily species with acetone or other oil free solvent to enhance the glue bond?

Kcimdrib · Feb 19, 2021

Gary Beasley said:
Did you also clean any oily species with acetone or other oil free solvent to enhance the glue bond?

Good point I didn't and it broke on and Ebony segment which I think is an oily wood.
Thanks for the advice.

Laminating a new trick

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