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Trying something different

bulns
crw73


Maple and Bubinga.

Comments welcomed
 
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dfurlano

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Can I ask with what tool did you make the cuts. I am having trouble finding something that is accurate and easy to use. I tried to modify (in a good way) both a miter box and a table saw. Table saw was a miserable failure as can be seen below with the center cut:



firsttry.jpg
 
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Thanks for the thumbs up folks.

Jeff said
i was wondering..
if it isn't a secret. could you post the blank before turning?
I didn't take a picture of the blank. Sorry. I have to remember to start doing that.



Dan Said
<br />Can I ask with what tool did you make the cuts.

I use a table saw.

That is some nice birdeye.
 
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Deere41h said
How long does it take you to do the glue up?

I never really timed myself, this glue up one took maybe 5-10 minutes. I had this idea pop in my head and I dashed to the woodshop to try it out. After I put on the finish I realized the pen needed something else so I added the two lines with a wire and refinished.
 

Fangar

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Ron,

Not sure how I missed this one when you first posted it. Nice job on the design and workmanship. Really nice work. I also like the inset finial top. Great!

Fangar
 

Woodnknots

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I'm going to have to try some segmented glue ups before long... One question though, how do you ensure that when you drill for the tube, that you drill exactly center?
Wait, one more question, what kind of glue are you using? I'm looking at these pens, and I know that not all the glue surfaces are long grain to long grain, that some of it has to be end grain. I'm an avid "flat" woodworker as well as a turner, and for us "flatwork" guys, end grain gluing is a no-no.
 
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I like I like I like!! I'll be glad when January gets here, and Mike can start working on similar ideas-- or just trying to replicate what you guys do! That is a fantastic looking pen!! Congrats!
 
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Dave,
I started flat woodworking too many years ago also. I promised SWMBO to get a pair of bookshelves done before the holidays, I'm gonna be in big trouble.

Dave said
One question though, how do you ensure that when you drill for the tube, that you drill exactly center?

I drill my blanks on a lathe with pin jaws and perfectly square blanks. The corners of the blank seat against the jaws and not in-between the jaws. Rarely, if ever, do I see a drill bit go off center


Dave said
Wait, one more question, what kind of glue are you using? I'm looking at these pens, and I know that not all the glue surfaces are long grain to long grain, that some of it has to be end grain. I'm an avid "flat" woodworker as well as a turner, and for us "flatwork" guys, end grain gluing is a no-no.

Medium CA Glue.
I started out using Borden's knock off of Gorilla Glue. But when I started doing inlays I switched to CA glue.

Edge grain to face grain gluing. Yup, I had a problem with that rock solid rule too. I also had a problem with sanding against the grain like one would normally do on a lathe.

Someone might say "It's very thin wood that is supported internally by a brass tube. So you would not have that problem." and they would be right.

But I use medium CA glue to attach end grain glue blocks to face grain bowl blanks, and core out the centers. I can't think of anything that will give more stress than a 40lb block of wood spinning at 300- 500 rpms while coring out the center to make smaller bowls.

I've never had a glue joint failure. So my answer is "I don't know why it works, it just does"

Let me leave you with this thought. A mortise and tenon joint is long grain to short grain, a big no-no. Yet I've seen many of these joints that are not pinned and have not failed after decades of use.
 

BigRob777

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Ron,
Wow, I think this is your best yet. I love the way the inlay seems to graduate from medium to dark on the sides. It looks like what I would call a very tasteful Klingon inspired pen. I saw your celtic (double X?) and liked it a lot, but I think this one is even better. Way to go.

My response about the mortise and tenon idea is that the holding power in a M & T joint is the long sides, which are long grain to long grain. Granted some of these joints are horizongal and have a greater surface area that is end grain on top and bottom, but it also does include some long to long. I have not done a whole lot of these, maybe 60 or so. There still is some holding power on the end grain, but it is just less than other jointing methods. IMHO

Rob
 
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Another Closet Trekie!

I was thinking it had a more of a Japanesse Samuri look. But I like the Klingon thing even better.


I think you are right. What I should have said was a M&T joint is a cross grain glue up.
 

BigRob777

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Ron,
The two (Samurai and Klingon) are not mutually exclusive. Regardless, that is one sweet pen. I'm afraid the cross grain glue-up is a bit over my head. I am mostly self taught in my woodworking, with the exception of New Yankee Workshop and what I have learned here (especially from Lou). I am dying to play with inlay, laminations. I am pretty sure that I mean laminations though. I want to layer the blanks, not insert strips into grooves (that's my limited understanding of the two terms, though I have read to the contrary here). Keep on making these beauties. Everybody seems to love them.

I just looked up Drums on mapquest and it looks like you are only 20 miles from my parents' house, on Mt. Pocono.
Rob
 

Ron Mc

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I use a table saw.

Ron,
Are you saying that you cut the lamination's with a table saw? Do you cut the actual areas on the blank where the lamination's are glued on the table saw as well?
Thanks,
 

BigRob777

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Ron (in Drums),
I think I see how you did it. You only cut part way through each side, then set in the inlay strips. Is that how you got the tips to look like points? Very nice. I have a ton of inlay strips laying around from cutting pen blanks down to 3/4". I hope to do some nice inlay and laminates with them. Now, if I can figure out how to use the curly koa strips and show off the curl, I'll be happy.
Rob
 
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