Why is my grinder getting SO HOT???

[truckerdave]

I have an 8" slow grinder purchased from Woodcraft about 3 years ago. I can honestly say up until 2 years ago, it was rarely used as I was afraid to ruin my tools b/c I didn't know how to use it.

Anyway, I went to use it today to sharpen a roughing gouge. It seemed to barely get up to full speed and as soon as I touched the gouge to the wheel it would start slowing down almost to a stop, with only the weight of the gouge on it. Then I noticed a smell of ?hot metal?, Touching the motor case, it was warm and getting hotter. I immediatley unplugged it and cleared the workbench of everything.

Question 1.) What could be the cause?
2.) Is it fixable?
3.) Is it worth fixing?
4.) Or should I just suck it up and buy a new grinder???

 

[nativewooder]

Check with whoever you purchased your grinder from. IIRC, a few years ago there was a common problem with overheating.

 

[Dan Hintz]

Sounds like a short in the windings... tends to make for reduced torque and extra heat.

 

[truckerdave]

And the real question:

Is it fixable?

Is it worth fixing?

Or should I just suck it up and buy a new grinder??

 

[JP61]

Is your grinder belt driven or direct drive?

 

[Dan Hintz]

And the real question:

Is it fixable?

Is it worth fixing?

Or should I just suck it up and buy a new grinder??

Depends upon what kind of fix-it shops you have in the area... if you can drive 5 miles and have it rewound for $50, probably a good save. If it's a 30 miles drive and costs $200, best to scrap it and buy a new one.

 

[truckerdave]

Is your grinder belt driven or direct drive?

Direct drive

 

[JP61]

Sorry, I didn't read your post close enough. Thought your grinder was like mine which I thought was belt driven :redface: but it isn't. It's driven off of the honing wheel (not direct drive).

Anyhow, if you have the Rikon Model: 80-805 they advertise a 5 year warranty.
Give them a call, maybe they can fix it or replace it for you. Good luck!

 

[JP61]

Your grinder issue came to mind again..... not sure of its location but I would take a look at the capacitor. Chances are that's the problem with your grinder.

Good luck!

 

[Dan Hintz]

Once it's up to speed, the capacitor is not a concern...

 

[monophoto]

Once it's up to speed, the capacitor is not a concern...

True - but suppose the centrifugal switch doesn't open?

Overheating + insufficient torque suggests to me that this is a split-phase motor in which the starting winding remains energized when the motor comes up to speed.

 

[JP61]

I'm not sure what type of motor he's dealing with. I did look at the parts list for the Rikon Model: 80-805 (if that's what he has ) and there's no start-winding switch assembly listed, which leads me to believe that this grinder has a capacitor-run type motor.

 

[Brad~Scott]

Hello Truckerdave, if it's a slow grinder from Woodcraft you have 8 inch white wheels; that's a good thing. It may be Model # 150780. Dan Hintz is most likely correct on the windings. In warranty? Send it back.

a) Call Woodcraft or go online to the chat room for resolution
b) Have your numbers written down: Model, Serial etc
c) I save receipts in an ancient brief case; perhaps you do also.

Not repairable? Try going with a wet stone. Perhaps NOT a $700 Tormek. I have been using a Sheppach 2000 on sale at Woodcraft for $135 (some many years ago) now $300. Never an issue. Never overheats my chisels, tools, mower blades, scissors, knives or anything I put to it.

I am looking at I think, the identical slow grinder from Woodcraft Supply (I worked there some years ago) and have had no issue with it for quick touch-ups. I do not use jigs; I hand sharpen everything because that was what Clarence taught me in the mid-sixties growing up in a lumber yard and everything turns out with a keen edge.
Good luck! Brad~Scott

 

[JP61]

Any luck?