Neil
Member
I have been using Mylands F/P what is a good shellac or wax to use? Maybe pens plus offers something 
When using Mylands friction polish?
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Kendallqn
Member
Renaissance wax works well.
Sylvanite
Member
Are you asking what is a good shellac/wax to use instead of Mylands Friction Polish, or to use on top of it?
its_virgil
Member
Mylands, as well as other similar friction polishes, are shellac based. The friction during application evaporates the solvent and leaves the shellac behind. Several light coats works better than one heavy coat. I'm not a wax user but when I do use wax Renaissance wax or one of the other microcrystalline waxes is my choice.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Do a good turn daily!
Don
I have been using Mylands F/P what is a good shellac or wax to use? Maybe pens plus offers something
nativewooder
Member
Friction Polish Peddlers Prey on newbie Penturners.
Mylands is a poor pen finish...it's not made to withstand pen use. But your question makes no sense since Mylands is wax and shellac. Ren wax has no shellac, it's just micro crystalline. Search under the Finish forum and Library.
Mylands and othe shellac based friction finishes have been used on pens for years - many people keep going back to them because they are a good finishing product, so to say catigorically they are a poor finish is a little much. You are surely entitled to that opinion but please note that it is a opinion. Many people finishing wood pen barrels want preserve the look and feel of wood and avoid the glass like appearence of many harder finish products.
NOTE: I do not carry Mylands (or any other finishing product) in my store.....
Ok...I'll play...That majority of people that have tried that style of finish felt that it was inferior to other finishes. That should solve the problem.
Now that is something that you do not know and quite frankly have no way of finding out. It is still your opinion you can't say it is a fact.
+1 on what Smitty said
There are LOTS of ways to finish wood projects & it's largely a matter of personal preference which is why there are so many finishing products out there. Also, some finishes work better on certain woods than others.
Mylands is my personal favorite for wood pens & it works especially well on hard woods like BOW, Koa, Maple, etc. It doesn't work as well for me on softer woods, so I've started using CraftCoat on those (which I also apply as a friction polish). I've seen some good results here from PensPlus and plan to give that a try too. While none of them will give the high glossy shine and probable durability of a good CA finish, I don't necessarily consider that to be a bad thing as I generally like a more natural look & feel to my wood projects.
As with any other finish, the key to getting good results with friction polish is to develop a good technique. Like Don (Its_virgil) noted, I like to use thin coats -- a small puddle about the size of nickel on a double folded blue shop towel, wipe it on evenly with the lathe off until tacky, then turn lathe speed up to 11 & press hard on the bottom of the blank, wiping back & forth until the friction generates enough heat that you can't stand to hold the towel to the blank any longer. Usually one coat is enough for me, but sometimes I'll go with 2 or 3 coats. I then add a very light coat little Ren wax to help protect the shellac finish from fingerprints & body oil. It works for me but YMMV.
There are LOTS of ways to finish wood projects & it's largely a matter of personal preference which is why there are so many finishing products out there. Also, some finishes work better on certain woods than others.
Mylands is my personal favorite for wood pens & it works especially well on hard woods like BOW, Koa, Maple, etc. It doesn't work as well for me on softer woods, so I've started using CraftCoat on those (which I also apply as a friction polish). I've seen some good results here from PensPlus and plan to give that a try too. While none of them will give the high glossy shine and probable durability of a good CA finish, I don't necessarily consider that to be a bad thing as I generally like a more natural look & feel to my wood projects.
As with any other finish, the key to getting good results with friction polish is to develop a good technique. Like Don (Its_virgil) noted, I like to use thin coats -- a small puddle about the size of nickel on a double folded blue shop towel, wipe it on evenly with the lathe off until tacky, then turn lathe speed up to 11 & press hard on the bottom of the blank, wiping back & forth until the friction generates enough heat that you can't stand to hold the towel to the blank any longer. Usually one coat is enough for me, but sometimes I'll go with 2 or 3 coats. I then add a very light coat little Ren wax to help protect the shellac finish from fingerprints & body oil. It works for me but YMMV.
Smitty...you didn't have your 3rd cup of coffee this morning. I guess you didn't catch that I'm talking durability and you're talking aesthetics. Sure...someone may have an unusual piece of wood; naturally oily, mutant batch of Mylands or perhaps their kit was exposed to spider radiation. Maybe this link will help you understand the durability issue?
Woodworkers Journal : Finishing Techniques : Exploring Oil and Wax Finishes
Woodworkers Journal : Finishing Techniques : Exploring Oil and Wax Finishes
tseger
Member
I use many different finishes on my pens, Mylands being one of them. Are you going to get the glass-like finish from Mylands that you get from CA?? NO. But you will get a nice finish. Will the Mylands wear off over time?? You bet it will and thanks to the oils in the users hands, it will leave behind a wonderful patina, and 10-15 years down the road you will still have a wonderful handmade WOODEN pen that actually feels like wood.
Neil, i usually top the Mylands finish with a couple coats of carnuba wax.
Neil, i usually top the Mylands finish with a couple coats of carnuba wax.
I think you misunderstand. What I am saying is that you are stating your opinions as facts.
I am not debating the issue relative durability of various finishing products. Just that you shouldn't make the kinds of arbritary statement you were making without indication that it is your opinion - not something you can prove to be a fact.
As to what finishing product to use, that is simply a matter of personal preference, and depends somewhat upon what the turner is aiming for with the finished product.
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mark james
IAP Collection, Curator
This was a good link; and I followed it to another on polyurethanes which was also good.
Carl Fisher
Member
To be honest, friction based finished wood pens are outselling my CA or any other finish option by roughly 3 to 1. The common opinion is that if they are buying a wood pen, they want to feel the texture and warmth of the wood.
I like Doctors Woodshop Pens Plus. Does it wear over time, sure. But just like a nice piece of furniture, if it's not waxed or polished every so often, the wear will be noticeable faster. If you educate a customer that they are buying a natural wood product and it should be cared for as such by occasionally applying a fresh top coat of wax or polish, the finish will be sustained longer.
Others like the worn look. As finger oils and use wear a nice shiny spot into the wood, it can be a nice touch.
I like Doctors Woodshop Pens Plus. Does it wear over time, sure. But just like a nice piece of furniture, if it's not waxed or polished every so often, the wear will be noticeable faster. If you educate a customer that they are buying a natural wood product and it should be cared for as such by occasionally applying a fresh top coat of wax or polish, the finish will be sustained longer.
Others like the worn look. As finger oils and use wear a nice shiny spot into the wood, it can be a nice touch.
Neil
Member
Thanks everyone for the info