What would you do different?

[jtalbert]

Hello,

I'm trying to learn the art of penturning. I have turned a few slimline pens and now I am trying to progress with this kit. I'm not sure of the name of it. The blank was leopard wood, and the kit was from CSUSA. I tried to put on a CA finish, but that did not turn out like I like.

So my question is what would you do different. Would you use a darker wood blank witht the gold, a different kit with this type wood. Anything would be helpfull. Yall have always been very nice before, but please dont sugar coat it, i'm looking for advise.

 

[TAld]

James, it appears to be a Round Top European. It looks fine to me as far as your turning skill. As far as the CA finish goes there are some very good articles in the IAP library you may want to read. And many people here who can help.

 

[jtalbert]

Hi Tom

Thanks for the reply. I have been watching the CA finishing videos and they make it look so easy. It is not that easy for me. I just can't get the hang of it, but I'm not giving up

by the way I lived in Jacksonville for a few years. I was in Waycross, GA and moved there with AT&T

 

[GaryMGg]

Hi James from another former Jax resident,

I've found all kinds of environmental things may affect a CA finish: rapid or broad temperature changes, changes in humidity, dryness of the blank, et al.
Somedays I can get a gorgeous CA finish on the first shot; other days, I struggle.
Finishing is so important that it's important to keep notes (even if they're mental) and try to only change one thing at a time while you're working out what works best for you.
HTH. Cheers.

 

[Phillip]

This pen looks great. You asked if we would use a different kind of wood. If the pen looks the way you wanted, then it is a total success. I have even turned pens that I was completely disappointed in and have had people drool over them. I don't think there is a truly ugly hand crafted pen.

 

[Brewmeister35]

I like the pen too. I started to say that I think leopardwood grain shows better on a bigger pen. I keep looking back and it really does look great. With CA, I totally agree with Gary. Sometimes it goes on great first time, other times it just doesn't. I had to try 3 times on a pink ivory pen I just finished before I got it without sanding through [B)]. Oh, and a sierra I did, same problem! Something to try, I've been playing with different combinations of glues and what seems to work best for me is 4 or more coats of thin put on with a soft paper towel, followed by 3 coats of medium with no sanding in between (unless it got too rough).

 

[Firefyter-emt]

I think the wood and plating works togather well, although I am drawn towards the chrome more myself. As for the shape, I would stay away from "under turned" or straight looking upper barrels. The straight works well on the lower body, but the photos shows a slight concave in the cap. This pen really needs a profile that bevels in towards the smaller diameter cap.

Keep working on the CA finish, I went a long time before I nailed my method with the derlin strips, straight CA then a sand out and polish. I have never been hapy with a CA/BLO finish becasue I personaly could never get a "glass gloss" from it myself.
PS.. Plus, with the strips there are no "glue rags, bags, or dirty fingers!" []

 

[jtalbert]

Ah ha,
I think what your saying is I need to turn more wood away toward the cap. You said it so well, and I'm such a newby I just want to make sure I have what you said clear. I have two more of these kits and will try this on the next ones.

I have watched the video using the strips, but now I cant find it. Did you make the video and can you tell me where I might find it so I can watch again

Thanks a bunch
JT

 

[follow3]

Hey JT,

I agree with most. It is a good looking pen!
I also agree with Fyrefighter, the top barrel is too straight. I don't think you should turn the top part thinner, but on the next one, leave a little more in the center and slightly contour to the tip from the mid section up.

As far as the finish, I sometimes get the same results with CA and I usually sand out with Micro Mesh all the way to 12000 grit, then buff it with Carnuba wax and a buffing wheel, Shines like new money every time.

Good luck and good job.

Steve

 

[jtalbert]

Steve,
Thanks for that tip. I have not been using Micro Mesh but have been going to 1200 with wet/dry sandpaper. I will order some of the Micro paper this week. I have also not been using a buffing wheel, and this is something else I will try. I have finished several banjo resonators with nitrocellulose lacquer and got a nice looking finish, but for some reason this pen finishing has got me. I may not be waiting long enough before the sanding and second coat.

Thanks again
James

 

[leehljp]

I can see what appears to be some circular sanding streaks in the finish but it could be the reflections of refracted light for a fluorescent bulb. Finer sanding or polishing. For me, it took me 1 1/2 years of "off and on" turning to get the CA finish down to a science for me, my technique and feel.

At first, I wanted a finished pen to show off. Then I changed my objective - which was to learn how to put a consistent finish on a pen. Soon, I began to look at each pen as one to learn on, and keep working on, until it was finished right. A few took me a week of finishing, stripping the finish and trying again. At times, I had to step away and come back an hour or day later.

I would ask, "What does it need to be better"? finer sandpaper, a second time through from 4000 mm to 12000, or three times through? Wax, polish? What spot is not smooth? Is there a spot? how deep is it? Can it be sanded out? Another layer of thin, or medium CA needed?

The point is - how can I make this to be as near perfect as it can be, and work at it to achieve that end? With this in mind and taking it slow, I learned and learned lots of fine points. From experience, I recognize problems immediately and make adjustments, decreasing the time needed to finish a pen nearly perfect.

 

[Firefyter-emt]

By the way, my thought was the same as Steve, you need a bit more wood on the cap, fill in that divot in the middle and bulk it up a bit. Pens can look good straight of "bulked up" a bit, but it's hard to pull off a concave body without just looking underturned.

 

[Mike in Nanaimo]

James; There is alot of good advice. You have to remember this is your first of this type of pen, and I'm sure you have learnt from it and you will learn from the suggestions here. Pratice! Practice!

 

[R2]

James don't let the finish distract you into thinking a different blank or kit would have been"better".Pen and kit look fine.[][^]
Take note of what gary said. I have been very luck with my CA finishes so far because of an extended drought in Australia.now we are entering a more normal summer with higher temps and humidity.Could be interesting and testing times!

 

[rherrell]

Originally posted by jtalbert
<br />Hi Tom

Thanks for the reply. I have been watching the CA finishing videos and they make it look so easy. It is not that easy for me. I just can't get the hang of it, but I'm not giving up
by the way I lived in Jacksonville for a few years. I was in Waycross, GA and moved there with AT&T

Great attitude! When I first started I couldn't get the hang of it either. I even stopped trying and went to spraying lacquer. Eventually I went back to trying and trying and trying....you get the point. I kept at it and eventually I got it. The same thing will happen to you, just keep trying!

 

[Rudy Vey]

The top part is way to skinny and straight. The European style pen has a nice light curve to it.

 

[jtalbert]

Well I'm still trying. Havent got it right yet, but woking on it

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