What kind of saw?

[Peninhandrjg]

HI All,
OK, I am about to expand my "shop" a little. I want to be able to cut my own blanks. What kind of saw would you recomend; Table saw, mitre saw, or band saw?
Thanks for the imput.

 

[JimGo]

For pen turning, the most versitile, IMHO, is the band saw. It doesn't give you the accurate cuts of a table saw (at least, the cheaper ones don't), but it really makes quick work of most pen turning and even some other cutting tasks.

 

[ctEaglesc]

What do you have now or access to?
What type of cutting do you intend to do?
(what size stock)

 

[wood-of-1kind]

Personally, my 12" mitre saw works best for me. I use a 'homemade' fence that is fully adjustable and makes 3/4" wide cuts a breeze. The mitre saw offers greater portability and cutting strength in comparison to band saws. Can't beat the nice straight edge cuts either. Makes stacking and storing of wood blanks so much easier IMHO.

-Peter-[]

 

[Doghouse]

A Table Saw will be used more than any other for general woodworking as well as turning.

A chopsaw or Miter saw again has a limited cutting depth, but takes the least amount of space. If you make a sub fence, you can safely cut small items. The cut is much cleaner than a bandsaw

A Bandsaw will give you the ability to cut much thicker items and it is much safer as the blade is moving down not twords you. You cannot get kickback from a bandsaw. That being said, it is hard to cut bowling ball blanks safely on a bandsaw. Although you do not get as clean of a cut, you can cut bowl blanks.

I have all three, and use the bandsaw the most for turning, followed by the table saw.

 

[Dario]

I would say go with a bandsaw. It has the versatility some saws don't have. It has it's limitations and at times may not produce "perfect" cuts but it gets the job done.

 

[ctEaglesc]

Tablesaw-most accurate 10" blade limits dpth of cuts to 3"+-

Bandsaw-larger depth of cut less accurate.
personally a miter saw would the very last on the list for consideration if it were to be the first tool pursed for pen making.If I did opt for a miter saw it would be 10" slider.
Smaller diameter blades could be used resulting in a narrower kerf for less waste.
12" blade limits the kerf size.The larger the kerf, more waste.
Good luck to those that use one but I wouldn't consider it for precision work.(I would also offer a vote for the most dangerous though injuries can occur with any tool.)

Though the bandsaw is elected for turning work it is overkill for pens unless you are going to cut up a lot of trees.Then you need a big one.
Look at what is available in dimension lumber.Optimal for pens is 3/4 stock. One inch stock gets trimmed if it is 4 sides SQ.
A bandsaw will offer the least amount of wasted but if you are planning to do any glue ups or segmented work, be prepared to do a lot of sanding and settle for a lot of inaccuracies.
I am lucky in that I did a little flat work before I started pen making and I am able to adapt a decently equipped wood shop to what I enjoy doing now.
If you are intending to purchase dimensioned stock and rip to thickness remember that a bandsaw is not the same as a tablesaw in that respect.
Frankly I use all my saws in pen making and I do have a 12" miter saw.(I use that for making angle cuts for jigs)

 

[wayneis]

I would say that the best all around saw for making pens would be the band saw, I use mine more that my table saw or miter saw put together. The miter saw would be last on my list because of the dangers associated with it. Some of my most scarry moments in my shop have been with the miter saw, I have a hole in one wall that is a very good reminder to me. You can use either a band or table saw with the proper jigs but to me most cuts for penmaking are just easier on the Bandsaw. Which ever saw you purchase just make sure that you use common sense and keep in mind that all it take is one accident or mistake to end your fun.

Wayne

 

[Rifleman1776]

My most frequently used 'go to' tool is the bandsaw. With a good blade it will do amazing work. I consider it relatively safe to use. As others have pointed out, it does not kickback. I stay a little afraid of my tablesaw all the time. Even when the blade is cranked down and it is unplugged. I don't like using a table saw. Would like to have a good miter/sliding saw but, right now, both space and budget won't allow.

 

[woodscavenger]

Back up. A couple of questions first.
1. How much $$ are you willing to put down?
....If you are under $150 then you will only be able to get a small table top bandsaw that will not be as good as a $150 contractor table saw.
2. What will be your source for rough stock? Logs, branches, burls, or basic boards?
....If you will be using true rough stock (branches, logs, burls, etc.) then a GOOD bandsaw (more $$$) is the only way to do it. Howver if you plan on buying boards or other dimensioned lumber then it is really hard to beat a table saw for its clean repeatable cuts. Add a decent DIY crosscut sled and you can cut any angle that you would ever need.

A miter saw is great for cutting down to length and in a pinch (when my table saw was so covered in other pen part and blanks) I have cut small sections with a ripping cut but I did not feel really comfortable doing it. Sooo.....if you have a good chunk of money then you could get a great bandsaw and a couple of great blades but if your budget is limited then a contractors table saw is the way to go in MHO. The best option really is to erect a 40'x40' steel building and have enough room for all of them!!

Good luck.[]

 

[alamocdc]

I agree with everything that Shane said with one exception. You can't get truly good contractor table saw for under $450. Even the Grizzly is $475.

 

[woodscavenger]

I didn't mean a full size cabinet makers saw. I meant a contractor saw with a small stand. For most work with things less than 3" thick, with a good blade and some care you can get very accurate cuts. I think in the $150 range the table saw you get will run circles around a bandsaw of the same price.

 

[ctEaglesc]

Buy used and get twice as much...
Do your home work first.

 

[Peninhandrjg]

WOW! I KNew I could count on you all to get some good information. My first thought was for the band saw. BUt now, IM thinking a tale saw as all my lumber will probably be board stock. Thanks again one and all.

 

[wayneis]

If you are going for a table saw or any saw for that matter, don't make the same mistake that I did. I bought small and cheap and thats what I got, a small cheap table saw that was crap. What ever you buy, be it new or used get the best that you can afford.

Wayne

 

[clem]

Originally posted by woodscavenger
<br />I didn't mean a full size cabinet makers saw. I meant a contractor saw with a small stand. For most work with things less than 3" thick, with a good blade and some care you can get very accurate cuts. I think in the $150 range the table saw you get will run circles around a bandsaw of the same price.

where in the world would get a $150. contractors saw even Sears arn't that cheep clem

 

[wdcav1952]

I'm surprised we didn't bump into each other at the store, Wayne. That sounds like the same table saw I bought! I am hoping that I can improve my cuts with my new Grizzly band saw.

Originally posted by wayneis
<br />If you are going for a table saw or any saw for that matter, don't make the same mistake that I did. I bought small and cheap and thats what I got, a small cheap table saw that was crap. What ever you buy, be it new or used get the best that you can afford.

Wayne

 

[spalted_1]

I have been very lucky on saws.I went to a country auction a couple years ago.Gave $20.00 for a 1950 small table saw.Put a different motor on it and a $5.00 blade 71/2".This saw is great The blade is stationary the table moves up and down and tilts.If you check some auctions bet you will find some similar.Sears used to make great saws
Jim