What abrasive is the absolute finest?

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bgray

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I'm going to leave this open before leaving my opinion.

I have an idea as to the whole physics involved, but I'm going to be a chicken and see what everyone else has to say first.

Hint as to my thinking...
I think that it has nothing to do with abrasive compounds.
 
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gerryr

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If you aren't talking about things like White Diamond and you're calling whatever it is an abrasive, that rules out anything except things like sandpaper, MM, steel wool, etc. That said, I would say 12000 MM is the finest.
 

bgray

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OK...edit...

I'm talking about anything that can be put on an applicator. That applicator includes paper, as in the case of sandpaper, or MM.
 

DCBluesman

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Water is a very fine abrasive...it cut out the Grand Canyon. Air is a very fine abrasive... it has shortened George Washington's nose on Mt. Rushmore. Atomic and sub-atomic particles, at some level, are also abrasive.
 

bgray

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OK...I'm being too cryptic here...sorry everybody.

Here's what I was thinking...

The finest abrasive to be used by a penmaker is not a compound at all...

It's the applicator.

Your finish cannot get any shinier that what your applicator will allow.

You can put any fine abrasive on a harsh applicator, and it will not matter.

Bottom line...what is the finest applicator that we can use?

This will lead us to the finest finish.

A very soft buffing wheel?

Here's what I think.

The abrasive qualities of our skin and natural oils in our hand are greater than any buffing wheel or plastics polish.

Bottom line, maybe we could get our pens a LEETLE bit shinier, but why bother?
 

RussFairfield

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Is this a trick question?

There is more to to the appearance and gloss of the surface than the size of the partile used to abrade it. The shape of the scratch it makes in the surface is as important, maybe more important.

Surface gloss has everything to do with how much light is reflected from the surface without scattering. Two particles can be the same size in microns, but the one that leaves a "U" shaped scratch in the surface will appear to have more gloss than one that makes a sharp "V" profile because light is reflected from the bottom of the "U" and not the "M".

Sanding with a lubricant will also soften the shape of the scratch so it will reflect more light and therefore have the appearance of a higher gloss.
 

bgray

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Originally posted by RussFairfield
<br />Is this a trick question?

There is more to to the appearance and gloss of the surface than the size of the partile used to abrade it. The shape of the scratch it makes in the surface is as important, maybe more important.

Surface gloss has everything to do with how much light is reflected from the surface without scattering. Two particles can be the same size in microns, but the one that leaves a "U" shaped scratch in the surface will appear to have more gloss than one that makes a sharp "V" profile because light is reflected from the bottom of the "U" and not the "M".

Sanding with a lubricant will also soften the shape of the scratch so it will reflect more light and therefore have the appearance of a higher gloss.

Maybe it was tricky, but I didn't intend it to be that way.

I only was surmising that no matter what the abrasive medium may be, the abrasive qualities can only be as light at the applicator.

Sorry if it was tricky.

So all that being said, what is your final abrasive?

I use Hut Ultra Gloss Plastic Polish with a very soft shop towel.
 

Dario

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Note that "final abrasive" is only worth something if you did your prep work properly. This includes each sanding step until you reach your "final abrasive". Any imperfection(s) left behind on ANY step (grit) will show better the more you sand/polish (unless you totally "erase" or sand through it).
 

redfishsc

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Originally posted by RussFairfield
Two particles can be the same size in microns, but the one that leaves a "U" shaped scratch in the surface will appear to have more gloss than one that makes a sharp "V" profile because light is reflected from the bottom of the "U" and not the "M".


Hmmmmmm, Russ...... I have always wondered how I could polish my pens with an product that leaves and "M" shaped profile, since my initials are MM.

After some searching on the net, I finally found some!





mmp1.jpg








I was thinking of using cotton candy as an applicator---- what do you think?




Matt M.[:D]
 

redfishsc

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Seriously, however, the ABSOLUTE BEST polishing compound I have ever, ever, ever, ever found was 3M's Finesse-It II. Works VERY fast and makes quick work of any visible scratches left after 12,000 Micromesh.

00002686.jpg




With that being said, Brasso will do the same for a lot cheaper, it just takes longer and stinks like ammonia.
 

redfishsc

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Originally posted by workinforwood
<br />lets say I pull my tin of brasso out...do I apply it with the brasso applicator pad too?

The only can of Brasso I have ever bought didn't come with an applicator. I just used a piece of old T-shirt, and also used regular kitchen paper towels--- both worked just fine. Brasso has some sort of oil in it, which is nice b/c it keeps you from scorching the surface of the plastic. I use brasso with the lathe full throttle (3700 something for my delta).
 

Rifleman1776

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My final/finest 'sanding' is done with a piece of wool blanket. Beautiful.
BTW, before trying this, I tried lambs wool, that had been washed and tanned. No effect at all. Wuthless.
I don't use old T-shirts anymore, too hard a fiber, actually scratches. Same with some socks.
After the wool blanket, Viva paper towels do a great job.
 
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