Wet Sanding?

[keithbyrd]

How many of you use water when using Micro mesh on CA?
Do you use it on wood blanks too? Any danger of the water getting under the finish and creating a problem?

 

[Justturnin]

I do but I only use MM on CA or Resin. I seal the ends of my pens w/ CA to before I start turning to prevent the water from seeping as best as it can.

 

[ghostrider]

I do but I only use MM on CA or Resin. I seal the ends of my pens w/ CA to before I start turning to prevent the water from seeping as best as it can.

That.

I haven't used MM in quite some time now. I've been using wet/dry sand paper instead. Does fine until I need to change paper, and the paper lasts a while.

 

[InvisibleMan]

I never use water and don't have any scratches on my pens. What's the reason for wet sanding? Does the MM last longer?

 

[GoatRider]

The sandpaper/micromesh won't clog as fast when you use water.

I use water when sanding a CA finish after I'm sure the wood is fully sealed with CA, and make sure I don't sand into the wood.

 

[Ted iin Michigan]

I wet sand with both sheet goods and Micro Mesh (MM).

With acrylics (or other man-made materials, like Tru-Stone), I'll sand dry to 400, then wet sand with water and "paper" to 2000. If I am going to use MM, I'll start with the tan pad (about 2600) and then go on up through the rest, all using water. I only dry sand because I'm cheap and the product I use doesn't like water.

With wood (I do CA finishes exclusively) I will sand the same through 400. Lately, I've been using mineral spirits as my wetting agent above 400. I think it works well. I do use a respirator when I'm working with CA, though.

InvisibleMan - Several reasons for wet sanding - 1 - It keeps the dust down.; 2 - It helps keep the abrasive ("paper" or MM) unclogged. 3 - It helps keep the heat down. It's awful to "melt" and ruin an expensive MM pad and also screw up a finish because I pressed too hard. And, yes, I believe this helps the MM last longer. And I also believe I get a better finish when I wet sand. That last thing is just IMHO.

 

[Jim Burr]

I use it on acrylics and CA finish all the time, keep the heat down and makes for a smoother finish...IMHO.

 

[InvisibleMan]

I wet sand with both sheet goods and Micro Mesh (MM).

With acrylics (or other man-made materials, like Tru-Stone), I'll sand dry to 400, then wet sand with water and "paper" to 2000. If I am going to use MM, I'll start with the tan pad (about 2600) and then go on up through the rest, all using water. I only dry sand because I'm cheap and the product I use doesn't like water.

With wood (I do CA finishes exclusively) I will sand the same through 400. Lately, I've been using mineral spirits as my wetting agent above 400. I think it works well. I do use a respirator when I'm working with CA, though.

InvisibleMan - Several reasons for wet sanding - 1 - It keeps the dust down.; 2 - It helps keep the abrasive ("paper" or MM) unclogged. 3 - It helps keep the heat down. It's awful to "melt" and ruin an expensive MM pad and also screw up a finish because I pressed too hard. And, yes, I believe this helps the MM last longer. And I also believe I get a better finish when I wet sand. That last thing is just IMHO.

Thanks, and that all makes sense. I have had melt marks on MM when using it to bevel an edge - water may avoid this in the future. All the other benefits seem to make water a no-brainer.

 

[wood-of-1kind]

I have two(2) sets of MM:

Set 1 use it on "plastics" and apply wet
Set 2 use it on "wood" only and apply dry