West Systems Epoxy

[redfishsc]

We are putting some nice mahogany cabinets in a yacht (droooooooool) and the captain simply insisted that we seal all the plywood edges with a very specific epoxy-- West System #105. Personally it's a waste of time and money b/c the cabinets are all interior on the yacht--- if the cabinets are getting wet, the cabinets are the LEAST of their worries[B)] I assure you! But they did pay for the upcharge, so I can't complain too loudly.


Anyhow, back to topic. This epoxy is much thinner than what we use to glue up tubes with (at least, what I've bought and used). They have several hardeners you can buy--- fast, slow, and *clearcoat*. The last one is designed specifically to cure it properly for a nice clear finish. Of course, we didn't buy that one, we bought the slow stuff (which may work anyway, it cures very clear).

Anybody ever tried this kind of stuff? I may give it a whirl soon to see what it's like and how it works.

BTW, the stuff is like $80 a gallon and the hardener is another $30 for a quart (can be found in smaller amounts). All in all though it's probably still cheaper than CA by the gallon.

 

[RussFairfield]

Epoxy is one of those finishes that has not been explored very much as a pen finish. I tried expoxies several years ago, and gave up because of the mess and the time. Someone else may have a better experience with them.

My opinion is that the time required is not worth the effort for a finish that at best is no better than Enduro, and too often turns out to be no better than a shellac friction polish. The Enduro is the hardest finish we can put on a pen and it is applied in short sessions spread out over a couple days and there is no need to keep the pen rotating in a dust-free environment in between them. The only way I could make the epoxy work was to keep it spinning until it cured.

The problem is that the better the epoxy coating, the slower the cure. The 5, 15, and 30 minute epoxies aren't worth the effort because they aren't clear, they turn brown with age and exposure to finger oils, and they aren't always hard. That means using a slow curing epoxy, and that means either using the lathe for several hours, or using some type of powered rotator to keep the pen spinning slowly.

To me, expoxies aren't worth the effort, but that doesn't mean that someone can't figure out how to use them. It just won't be me. I said the same thing about waterborne polyurethanes, and then someone discovered a product called Enduro.

 

[ctEaglesc]

I looked into the WEst system because a local woodworker offered some for me to try.
What I didn't care for was the Amber color in either the resin or hardner.
As far as sealeing edges the humidity of salt air is always present.
When using melamine or other engineered wood products if the edges aren't sealed the "wood" canb swell.
Water proof glue would have worked also.
Real wood is no different.