Using a router table to rough-round your blanks?

[jbswearingen]

I do flat work, too. Well, let me clarify...I have a table saw, jointer, etc., but most of their flat surfaces are covered, with, well...pen kits and blanks...

I'm building a router table as SWMBO has mandated that I start building a bed for our little girl soon. It'll have feather boards and a split fence for safety, of course. I'm wondering how many of you use them to rough-round your blanks? I'm thinking about doing it to make centering the blanks for drilling easier.

Will I just be making more work for myself?

 

[Russianwolf]

I'd be concerned with routing pieces as small as a pen blank.

Also, the first three passes should be fairly easy, but the last pass would become more difficult as the flat face becomes more and more non-flat.

I could see doing it, if you were to leave a section at each end square, but then you'd need extra long blanks.

 

[jbswearingen]

I'd be concerned with routing pieces as small as a pen blank.

Also, the first three passes should be fairly easy, but the last pass would become more difficult as the flat face becomes more and more non-flat.

I could see doing it, if you were to leave a section at each end square, but then you'd need extra long blanks.

Oh, I was thinking of just running two opposing corners, using a push stick and stop block.

But thinking about it, it probably won't do much to make the job easier or quicker.

 

[workinforwood]

Personally I wouldn't bother, but the laser guys do it all the time. They probably leave the ends square too, but I'm sure they are rounding long sticks of stock and then chopping it into shorter sections of rod. You look at some of the laser kits and you can even see some router marks on them. In that situation, it makes a whole lot of sense!

 

[pfde4]

Too much waste. I can be done safely; you need to make plunge cuts 1" to 1-1/2" from both ends that will leave you with flat ends on all sides. Cut out the center and you have a dowel.

 

[IPD_Mr]

They do make small piece holders for doing just what you are talking about. Check Rockler as I have seen them there.

Yes you could cause yourself some headaches as the height of the router bit has to be split evenly of the blank height. The blank also has to have the same height the entire length of the blank.

If you want a great table look at the Norm Abrams plan from New Yankee Workshop. I built that one about 15 years ago. A couple of years ago we replaced the top and put a Bulldog cast iron top on it. Best thing I ever did.

 

[JimMc7]

I prefer a disc sander to knock the corners off brittle blanks. I think more brittle blanks like polyresin (especially with their sometimes irregular cast faces/edges) would be more likely to crack with the high stress of a router. Haven't tried a router though so you may be right!

 

[wolftat]

Sound like a lot of work for what could be done in a few seconds on the lathe.

 

[Lenny]

Normally when routing something as you describe, you would start with a longer length then needed allowing extra at both ends that could remain flat giving a bearing surface. You COULD temporarily attach auxillary pieces using CA glue and perhaps make a holding device of some kind (I often do that when doing cope and stick work on small pieces) ... HOWEVER, (I think Neil is right) you may be looking for a solution to a problem that doesn't exist!:biggrin:

 

[jbswearingen]

Yeah, I'm seeing it too. I'm glad you guys pointed it out before I tried it!

 

[RSidetrack]

Sound like a lot of work for what could be done in a few seconds on the lathe.

I must have bad technique or a bad gouge if knocking the edges off should only be taking a couple seconds. It takes me 5 minutes to do it without blowing something out.

 

[jbswearingen]

Sound like a lot of work for what could be done in a few seconds on the lathe.

I must have bad technique or a bad gouge if knocking the edges off should only be taking a couple seconds. It takes me 5 minutes to do it without blowing something out.

Try using a sharp skew at high speed. They work great once you figure them out.

 

[pensbydesign]

i would think it could be dangerous with small piece, and i don,t think you will gain anything from it. don't take long to rough a blank on a lathe

 

[ctubbs]

If you must route a small piece such as a blank, try using one of the wood clamps, the kind with two screws, to hole the blank. That will give you something to hold onto without getting your tender fingers close to the spinning bit. It will also protect your router bit from damage from striking something too hard that would damage the bit. However, like many others, I feel you are trying to solve a nonexistent problem.
Charles

 

[its_virgil]

Seems to me that removing the corners with a disk sander, router, or band saw means those tools are having the fun and not the turner:biggrin:

Seriously, I would bet most of us could round a blank on the lathe quicker than using other tools.

Do a good turn daily!
Don

 

[jbswearingen]

Seems to me that removing the corners with a disk sander, router, or band saw means those tools are having the fun and not the turner:biggrin:

Seriously, I would bet most of us could round a blank on the lathe quicker than using other tools.

Do a good turn daily!
Don

The purpose isn't to turn them round faster...I can rough really quickly with a gouge or skew. It's more to get my 1" blanks easier to fit in my centering jig for drilling.

 

[low_48]

I've done just what you are asking about on the router table, about 150 times, maybe more. I have so many pen blanks, I have to find ways to use them up. So I make my own 3/4" dowels for turning Christmas ornaments. It works like a charm, even the 4th pass. I don't have my hands anywhere near the work. I use pads, for feeding the blanks, that are made for using on the jointer. Plastic base, plastic handle, with 1/4 foam on the bottom. If you want a little more safety, make a fence that has a profile as near to the router bit you can get, but I have an Incra fence and I slide in pretty close. Works like a charm.

 

[its_virgil]

I was trying to be funny. Guess that didn't work.:biggrin:

Put them between centers and round them down to fit your jig.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

 

[RSidetrack]

Sound like a lot of work for what could be done in a few seconds on the lathe.

I must have bad technique or a bad gouge if knocking the edges off should only be taking a couple seconds. It takes me 5 minutes to do it without blowing something out.

Try using a sharp skew at high speed. They work great once you figure them out.

I will admit, I have yet to figure out the skew, I always blow the blanks to pieces. I will be moving along going good and then out of nowhere, wabam :redface:

 

[Hubert H]

Depending on the type of wood the skew should do in 45 seconds to a few minutes. I have seen guys try and do it fast - don't work. When taking the corners off take a little at a time and go back and forth faster. Maybe you are trying to take off to much at a time. Seems odd but sometimes going slower gets the work done faster. Really is worth the effort to learn. Just my 2 cents. HWH