Thanks everybody for the feedback so far. The primary issues identified with the current formulation seem to be an issue curing properly with certain wood species, and also curing issues with dyes.
We think we can improve the ability of the stabilizer to cure with more wood species with a slight formulation change. I would like to ask the testers who had this problem (undyed wood did not cure properly) to please PM me and let me know the specifics. Also let me know if you have more of the same wood to try again. I'll send out another pint for you to try again with the same wood to see if you get an improved result. Please test again using the same species in order to know for sure if there is an improvement.
Regarding problems curing when dyes are added, the stabilizer can be formulated to cure properly when dyed. However, it is not something that can be done outside of the laboratory. The new formulation we are going to try will likely improve the curing of already-dyed parts, however mixing dyes directly with the stabilizer is going to produce very erratic results. We're going to look at coming out with a line of dyed stabilizers, but only as we can adjust the stabilizer formula to work with each color dye. I'll keep everyone informed if/when we are successful in developing this line of products.
One thing that must be absolutely clear about curing Ultraseal: It ONLY cures properly under extended high heat, specifically it requires a minimum of 194 F for ten minutes AT THE CORE. Anything less than this will not result in it curing properly if at all. It will continue to harden over a couple days, however that assumes a proper hard cure in the first place. If it comes out sticky and gooey, no amount of time sitting around will make it harden properly.
On the questions below:
1 - A list has not been developed yet showing how compatible Ultraseal is with various woods, but we are starting to pull it together through the results of this first trial.
2 - Ultraseal may leach some color out of certain woods but to be honest we don't have a broad enough experience yet to know which. We have seen a slight yellowing of the stabilizer after stabilizing several batches of clear wood so some color does indeed get into the stabilizer.
3 - Fresh Ultraseal can be added to used Ultraseal with no adverse effects. However, if the used Ultraseal is clearly contaminated or is beginning to polymerize, don't mix it as you will ruin the fresh material. If you have discolored Ultraseal due to dyes or oils from wood, it is best to first run a gel test as described in the instruction sheet to verify it cures properly. If it does, go ahead and mix it if you like.
4 - Ultraseal can be reused again and again. It does not lose anything, however keep in mind that the wood may add something undesirable to the stabilizer. Again, a gel test can tell you if it's still o.k.
5 - Good question. We haven't done any testing to see if the blanks lose weight over time. The stabilizer does not evaporate, but I think it would be safe to say that if the banks were sitting on something, capillary action would draw some of the stabilizer out of the wood, especially highly spalted woods that absorb a great deal of stabilizer.
I'll do my best to keep answering questions. Sometimes I won't have a concrete answer, but we're learning just as you are. With a little patience, I'm confident we'll have the product that meets the needs of most pen turners (and reel seat and knife handle makers).
Thanks again everybody,
Bob
Has a list been developed yet that shows the results of which woods are compatible vs those that have a problem when using Ultraseal?
Also, if one were to use dark wood, does the vacuum process pull any of the dark resins out thus preventing the use of this batch of Ultraseal with a lighter wood?
Does adding "fresh" Ultraseal to a volume of "used" Ultraseal refresh everything, or should the older and used batch be discarded?
Once exposed to wood and pressure/vacuum, does the Ultraseal lose any strength if a second or third batch of wood is added in separate processes? (Assuming that enough Ultraseal remains to adequately cover the wood for the additional processes.)
After pulling a vacuum or applying pressure, and waiting for the wood to "sink", does any Ultraseal actually drain from the wood prior to a heat session. This is not addressing any surface Ultraseal, but is instead addressing any loss from the interior of the wood IF the heat application is withheld for a bit of time due to various reasons.
