camb
Member
Can tung oil be used to finish pens or bottle stoppers ? Is there a trick to it? Thanks Jeff
Tung oil
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camb
Member
Moderator please move to correct spot thx
monophoto
Member
Drying oils (linseed oil, tung oil, walnut oil, etc) can produce a beautiful finish. Simple oil finishes will have a very soft lustre that really shows off the beauty of the wood, and they can be waxed and buffed to a higher gloss. And a cured tung oil finish is more waterproof that some of the other options.
I've never used a pure oil finish on a pen because I've never believed that oil alone would be tough enough to withstand daily use. I have used a tung oil-based 'long-oil varnish' finish (made from tung oil and marine-grade spar varnish) on a few pens - it looks and feels very nice, but I'm still not sure about long term wear. I have used both pure tung oil, or a long-oil varnish, and then applied a lacquer-based friction polish topcoat. And I've used oils to enhance the wood color, and the applied WOP as a protective top coat with an interface application of a shellac-based sealer.
I've generally tended to prefer WOP on stoppers because it is hard enough to withstand banging around in a kitchen drawer, and is waterproof so the finished product can be rinsed off between uses.
However, I have made a few bottle stoppers with captive rings that I've finished with pure tung oil. When you are dealing with captive rings, the process of finishing gets complicated. You first have to sand and finish the ring after it has been rounded over and before it has been separated from the body of the turning. And later you have to finish the entire turning including the underside of the ring. A flnish like WOP is problematic because it can actually glue the ring to the body during that second stage of finishing unless you come up with some means to keep it separated from the rest of the stopper while the finish cures. Using pure tung oil gets around this process because all you have to do is apply the oil and then rub it in.
I've never used a pure oil finish on a pen because I've never believed that oil alone would be tough enough to withstand daily use. I have used a tung oil-based 'long-oil varnish' finish (made from tung oil and marine-grade spar varnish) on a few pens - it looks and feels very nice, but I'm still not sure about long term wear. I have used both pure tung oil, or a long-oil varnish, and then applied a lacquer-based friction polish topcoat. And I've used oils to enhance the wood color, and the applied WOP as a protective top coat with an interface application of a shellac-based sealer.
I've generally tended to prefer WOP on stoppers because it is hard enough to withstand banging around in a kitchen drawer, and is waterproof so the finished product can be rinsed off between uses.
However, I have made a few bottle stoppers with captive rings that I've finished with pure tung oil. When you are dealing with captive rings, the process of finishing gets complicated. You first have to sand and finish the ring after it has been rounded over and before it has been separated from the body of the turning. And later you have to finish the entire turning including the underside of the ring. A flnish like WOP is problematic because it can actually glue the ring to the body during that second stage of finishing unless you come up with some means to keep it separated from the rest of the stopper while the finish cures. Using pure tung oil gets around this process because all you have to do is apply the oil and then rub it in.
KenV
Member
There is tung oil from the nut and there is "tung oil" as a name on a can. Some with the name on the can does not have any of the oil of the nut inside the can. Some with the name on the can has just a little of the oil from the nut inside the can.
The oil from the nut is a slow drying oil that leaves a soft matt oil finish.
Most with the name on the can leave an amber varnish surface. Some like Waterlox have fervernt advocates.
The oil from the nut is a slow drying oil that leaves a soft matt oil finish.
Most with the name on the can leave an amber varnish surface. Some like Waterlox have fervernt advocates.
camb
Member
Thank you for the help Jeff
scoobiehome
Member
Thanks for the info,
manojd
Member
Its been a while since I used tung oil, but from what I remember, it dried much quicker than walnut oil, almost like a varnish. I use walnut oil regularly. It takes time to dry and it will darken the wood significantly, in some cases so much so that it may not look like wood anymore.
Wildman
Member
To get any protection with pure Tung oil need 3 or 4 coats minimum some people recommend more coats. Time between coats normally 24 hours. Drying time depends upon temperature and humidity not un common to take 7 days after last coat less if ideal temp & humidity. Fully cured finish can take 15 to 30 days.
Some people cut pure Tung oil with solvent to reduce drying times. Would follow manufacturer's recommendation on solvent to use. If want to stay green omit solvent.
If using product like Formby's Tung oil follow instructions.
Tung Oil is coming back as a floor finish because easy and inexpensive to repair and no V.OC.'s.
Some people cut pure Tung oil with solvent to reduce drying times. Would follow manufacturer's recommendation on solvent to use. If want to stay green omit solvent.
If using product like Formby's Tung oil follow instructions.
Tung Oil is coming back as a floor finish because easy and inexpensive to repair and no V.OC.'s.