Truestone/Imitation stone

[bitshird]

I just drilled some of the original imitation stone block from R&T research, I tried on one of the Turquoise and like a fool I tried to drill through the first blank, of course it fractured when the drill exited, Next blank I drilled 2-1/2 deep and cut off the undrilled parts of the rest, the I cut the blanks about 3 inches long I’m using reasonably good drill bits 25/64 Cleveland Latrobe we drill stainless and tool steel with them every day, I did notice that even drilling with water that some of the urea or polymer stuck to the bit, I guess next batch I’ll try some with Ti coating, I drilled them at different speeds, enough I getting less drill heat at about 450 rpm it’s hard to tell what the speed are our drill press is turning it’s a 30 year old Powermatic varispeed and the numbers on the dial are worn off,
I wish I didn’t have so much of this stuff, I'd like to try the new pliable material, but I've got about 30 pounds of end cuts from a lapidary job I did a few years back, the client was too cheap to use real stone, the stone will drill but turning should be a lot of fun, I ordered some cigar and the euros that use the parker refill kits from Berea since apparently they are about the only one no one has complained about their plating pitting, although I've not had any trouble with the people I buy from as far as their plating but not pleased with other aspects
Any body has any experience on turning the older trustone /Imitation stone they would care to impart, hopefully meaningful information?
I’ll be turning it in a jet 920 metal lathe, that is beginning to think it’s a wood lathe that lost it’s tool rest, got the print drawn up for one just seems easier to turn dials than hold those long scary sharp things, which I don’t think would work on this stuff any way
Ken Ferrell

 

[redfishsc]

bitshird,


I am not aware of the difference between the old and newer trustones, I suppose I only use the newer ones since I have only bought from CSA, and that only in the past year or two.


As far as them splitting while drilling, I drill 100% with my lathe. I do not even own a drill press.

I always drill right through my blanks (well, not closed-end blanks).

I hold them in a Barracuda chuck, with pin jaws.


Lathe at 500 RPM. I start by drilling a pilot hole using my handy 7mm bit (right now I use a 135* split point from Woodcraft and it works wonderfully, but a brad point will work almost as well). A split point or a brad point are very, very preferable over a standard 118* bit since the split point or brad point won't wander-- it will drill dead center.

I have two drill chucks, so I put the 7mm in the tailstock and the correct size drill bit in the other. I shoot the 7mm hold (1/4" to 1/8" at a time, purging the shavings).

I then put the other chuck in the tailstock, LOCK THE TAILSTOCK HARD, and very carefully advance the final drill bit. For this I use cheap Harbor Frieght bits--- the 144 bit kit--- and they work very very well. The final hole tends to "self feed" if you don't lock the tailstock hard. This is a guaranteed busted blank. But, on the other hand, if you drill carefully and don't get in a hurry, you will rarely crack a blank.


Even if I had a drill press I'd still drill with the lathe. I can't accurately describe my whole "rhythm" when drilling, but with some practice you get a groove going and you just have a feel for what works well.

 

[ed4copies]

The old trustone came out in dust.

Friction builds heat fast, the stuff is HARD and DENSE. I had my best success with a bradpoint bit and, as I have said at least a hundred times before, EXIT the hole at your own peril. It may work, it probably will not.

I put water in the hole, cause I don't like heat - but that is just ME.

My success rate is about 95%.

 

[bitshird]

Redfishsc
Apparently R&T has out a newer formula they call pilable stone, maybe a new polymer or a more flexible? formula, I saw something about it aon one of the classifieds the other day, I dont have a 4 jaw for my Jet and at work the only lathe we have a 4 jaw on is a 17 in. Leblond. I started drilling blanks in a Bridgeport milling machine but the cleanup was a bit much [] the accuracy was nice but...[)]
The classified noted that there was a difference and the older formula was far more brittle, I think they were right, I sharpened 6 HSS lathe bits and I have a few dozen carbide inserts, Them suckers is gonna be pens[!] I may knock the corners off with my lapidary grinder just make them sort of hex sided to stop the interupted cut thing.
As soon as I get the money I'm going to get a 4 jaw chuck, I think I'll even make a tool rest and try and turn wood and PR pens "the right way" either that or CNC my Jet, turn out 100 pens a day and own the world[}][}]
Actually from what I saw come out of the holes, I'm wondering about abrasive on my bedwqays. Oh Well, nothin' lasts forever[]

 

[bitshird]

Ed'
I drilled 10 blanks and busted 1, but I was only dumb enough to drill through 1
that old stuff is even hard on a metal cutting bandsaw, must be more actual stone in it, They say it's 85% pulverized rock and 15% polymer
Ken Ferrell

 

[redfishsc]

Originally posted by bitshird
<br />Redfishsc
Apparently R&T has out a newer formula they call pilable stone, maybe a new polymer or a more flexible? formula, I saw something about it aon one of the classifieds the other day, I dont have a 4 jaw for my Jet and at work the only lathe we have a 4 jaw on is a 17 in. Leblond. I started drilling blanks in a Bridgeport milling machine but the cleanup was a bit much [] the accuracy was nice but...[)]
The classified noted that there was a difference and the older formula was far more brittle, I think they were right, I sharpened 6 HSS lathe bits and I have a few dozen carbide inserts, Them suckers is gonna be pens[!] I may knock the corners off with my lapidary grinder just make them sort of hex sided to stop the interupted cut thing.
As soon as I get the money I'm going to get a 4 jaw chuck, I think I'll even make a tool rest and try and turn wood and PR pens "the right way" either that or CNC my Jet, turn out 100 pens a day and own the world[}][}]
Actually from what I saw come out of the holes, I'm wondering about abrasive on my bedwqays. Oh Well, nothin' lasts forever[]

Lol, bitshird, have fun.

As far as chucks go, the PSI Barracuda is a great chuck for drilling. Had I intended to use the chuck for making many bowls, I would have spend the additional $60 and gone with the Barracuda2 for the simple reason that the 'Cuda1 is a "lever" chuck and the 'Cuda2 is a key chuck (ie, one handed).

However, I am quite happy with my 'Cuda1. Since it comes with nearly all the jaws a pen and novice bowlmaker will need, it's a deal.

 

[workinforwood]

Is it the same as the Gem stone at arizona siloutte? I order some of that the other day, supposed to be mostly rock. Guess I best be extra carefull. I was a bit dissapointed though when I saw you get a discount when you buy 5 but apparently that doesn't apply unless the are the same 5 gemstones and not 2 of one 3 of another. They are not cheap and I could only afford 5, so why would I buy all the same color? I asked the question with the order but no response, and was billed full price. Oh well... I appreciate reading this post on the blow-out. I'll do the same and drill all through and then cut.

 

[redfishsc]

workin-----

Have you actually recieved the order yet? If not, you may be suprized--- Bill usually "prorates" the bills by hand after the computer does all the math. The discount won't show up on the computer since it isn't programmed to discount "mix and match". I can't say for sure if the discount is for same-color blanks only, but don't soley trust the computer receipt. My actuall bill usually comes out several bucks less than what the computer said (aside from shipping).

 

[bitshird]

Jeff;
I think Arizona Silhouette uses the newer formulas which are called Pliable stone, I believe the binder (polyester I believe) is not as subject to shatter, but like Don said, best to be safe, set your drill stop at 2-1/4 or just a tad longer than your tube lengths are and don't drill through, cut the undrilled end off.
if the new mix is still 85% rock 15% binder it will still be like drilling any resin cast or acrylic, there will be a good chance it will blow out the bottom end and crack.
The stuff I drilled wasn’t too bad and after I smartened up (1 barrel) out of 10, so I’ll just make a keychain out of the extra barrel.
Peck drill it don't let your drill get hot, and use water in the hole, you'll do fine
Ken Ferrell

 

[workinforwood]

If only you guys could see my drilling setup. [] I can't set my drill depth to past 1 3/4 inches. My drill press is small and old and I have to turn the head and stack blocks of wood to set the vise on to drill anything over a 7mm hole. I have to drill down, raise the blank or jack up the blocking, hehehe. But this is what I have right now and it is working. By the time christmas is over I'll probably have enough profit left over after buying my wife a new sewing machine that I can get a new drill press.

Thanx for the heads up on the arizona pricing and the drilling. I do use water...what's a bit more rust on the powerhouse 1/4 hp drill press I call "Little Herc"!

 

[randbcrafts]

The ones that AZ carries look like they are all pliable versions which is the same as CSUSA. I have had the best luck with using a regular split point bit. Brad point bits tend to blow out the end especially on the non-pliable stuff which is what Ken probably has. I've never had a pliable blank split or blow out on me and I've made quite a few.
**shameless plug** The ones that I have listed are basically the 50+ pricing from the big guys.[]