To stabilize or not to stabilize...

[Scruffy]

While I understand the theory of why one needs to stabilize some woods, I evidently don't understand the area well. Not comfortable with my understanding of the process.

What types of wood need to be stabilized?

What woods don't need to be stabilized?

What woods should not be stabilized?

What is the preferred stabilization process?

What are the options in stabilization?

How does humidity and water content effect the stabilization process?

Alan

 

[lyonsacc]

Alan,

I'll try to answer some of your questions with my limited knowledge.

What NEEDS stabilized? spunky woods or woods with a lot of eyes or other oddities. Spalting in wood is generally from decay, so the wood is going to be softer and will tend to rip out when you turn. Also, the eyes in some burls might pop out during turning. Now, some more skilled turners use this to their advantage and fill in the holes with some other material making then pen look pretty awesome.

Some folks prefer stabilized woods because they might turn more easily and polish up pretty nice with very little finish needed.

I have turned a couple of unstabilized buckeye burl pieces. You just have to be more careful/gentle as you get to the final dimension - and you may have to do some extra work filing in some small holes.

I would think most woods do not need to be stabilized. I had a palm (I don't remember if it was red or black) just disintegrate on me when I was drilling it, so the next time I try palm I will probably get a stabilized blank.

It seems the major home stabilizing method folks use on the IAP is cactus juice, however is you search hard you can find some folks that put the blanks in containers of chemicals (my memory says poly, but I can't remember right now) and let them soak for a week or two.

That is a start to your questions - and there are bound to be as many opinions on this as there are members of the IAP.

Have a great day.

 

[Charlie]

I use a mixture of 1/2 lacquer,1/2 lacquer thinner. mix well, put wood in and leave until it sinks, some harder woods never sink. I usually shake the can every few days.

Take out and let dry outdoors for a month or so.

Charlie

 

[Scruffy]

Thanks Dave , Charlie;
Charlie. I used to live in Tucson and Mesa. While drying outside is a great option in AZ, in AL if I took something outside to dry; mildew and or black mold would grow on it before morning.

My wife says much easier to make red velvet cake here and the dogs like the trees and grass in the back yard.

Thanks again guys.

Alan

 

[nava1uni]

Many methods of stabilizing wood from personal recipes, Minwax wood hardener, Polyacrylic, etc. Some wood is soft in nature without being spalted, like Redwood Burl, and so it needs to be stabilized. Sometimes you can turn this kind of wood using very sharp tools and thin CA, but stabilizing makes it a lot easier. Check out the library for more information.

 

[mikespenturningz]

You can also use stabilizing to dye woods. I use it to double and triple dye. I usually don't stabilize any wood unless it needs to be stabilized though. I agree with all of the above but wanted to add the dying process to the notes.

 

[Charlie]

Scruffy

I donn`t think mould is going to grow on this wood.

Charlie

 

[Jim Burr]

This belongs in the casting & stabilization forum Alan and this was just covered there. Stabilize punky stuff and in some schools, stabilize some burls. http://www.penturners.org/forum/f43/ for example...

 

[KenV]

Alan -- Adding chemicals to wood to make it machinable started with the Forest Products Lab in Madison Wisconsin a long time ago. There are a number of commercial processes that are used, most of which involve trade secrets, very high pressures, vacuums, and chemicals that are difficult to obtain in small quantities.

Woods that are difficult to machine/turn because of differences in density, softness, soft spots, or inconsistencies in texture are good candidates.

Pen turners -- for a variety of reasons like to mess with a wide range of materials and have tried many different "home brew" processes. Some are risky, some are difficult, some are problematic, and some are dependent on technique such as use of thin CA glue to reinforce the turning "on the fly".

There are a number of commercial outfits that will do custom work. You send wood and money and they send back your wood with the chemicals forced into the wood.

Why use blanks that have chemicals added -- it makes the outcome more consistent and predictable. It produces some materials for turning that are very attractive and hold up well.

In the last couple of years, Cactus Juice has been available in smaller quantities (as in less than drum lots) and is pretty effective at extending the range of materials that can be used for pens.

There is an additional hassle factor, and it may or may not be worth the cost.

There is no need to get into the process of adding chemicals to wood blanks. There are lots of vendors selling pen blanks which have been commercially processed.

If you have the time, you have some wood that is pretty neat, but is not turnable as it exists, and you are willing to invest some money and time in learning, you can expand your opportunities.

Key is wood that you really want to use, that is not turnable in its current condition.