Tip pops back out

[RDH79]

I just got some 308 and 30-06 casing blanks When I try to push in the tips they pop back out about a32nd or more. It is ok in the clamp but release the pressure and it moves out tried sanding the the insides of the tubes and the tips. No luck. The guy I got they off of said he would exchange them, but would rather fix them they are too nice to send back Any suggestions??

 

[follow3]

Try a small dot of CA on the tip before you press it in, then hold it in the press long enough for the CA to set.

Don't use too much, or you could end up with it getting where it will cause problems.

Steve

 

[RDH79]

Tried the CA Put it in the clamp over night and it still popped out seems like its spring loaded.

 

[turned_for_good]

Are you pushing the tips in before or after you glue the tubes in? If after what kind of glue are you using?

 

[RDH79]

Using thick CA. But I bought them with the tube already in them.

 

[loglugger]

Sounds like maybe the tube is moving?
Bob

 

[jskeen]

Look at the primer end of the casing and see if you can look through the hole drilled in the casing and see the END of the brass tube. If they were done correctly, the tube should be long enough that it entered the drilled hole. if so you should be able to find a transfer punch that will go into the hole but hit the end of the tube. Put it in and put the nib on a piece of wood and GENTLY tap the punch till the nib seats tightly.

In theory, the tube should be held rigidly enough in the casing to withstand the force of seating the nib into the tube, but if they used polyurethane glue or quick set epoxy instead of thick ca or high strength epoxy, the glue may have enough elasticity in it to let the tube move back just a little under pressure.

 

[turned_for_good]

Originally posted by jskeen

In theory, the tube should be held rigidly enough in the casing to withstand the force of seating the nib into the tube, but if they used polyurethane glue or quick set epoxy instead of thick ca or high strength epoxy, the glue may have enough elasticity in it to let the tube move back just a little under pressure.

That was kind of my thoughts

 

[rherrell]

Find somebody who solders the tubes in, that's the ONLY way to be sure that the tube doesn't move. Gluing metal is not a good solution and IMO should be avoided.
Better yet, learn how to make your own and avoid all the headaches. It's NOT hard and there are tutorials in the library.
And one more thing to consider, if you use the bullet for the nib it doesn't touch the tube so you MIGHT get away with gluing it,(although I don't recommend it).

 

[reddwil]

Did you happen to get these off ebay. Not that I know it matters, but I got some from a guy on there and I'm not sure what he used to glue the tubes in with, but it was very rubbery. The tube would move as I was pressing in the tip. I solved it by placing a small brass plate on my press to keep the tupe from moving. I don't have that problem on shells I glue up myself. The ones I got had a greenish look glue in them.

 

[Sylvanite]

Originally posted by rherrell

... if you use the bullet for the nib it doesn't touch the tube ...

That depends on how the cartridge is constructed. The way I make 308 and 30-06 cartridges for the slimline/euro kits, the tube does indeed seat against the bullet base (actually, it fits around the boat-tail). Cartridges for the cigar kit are constructed differently and the tube does not touch the bullet. In both cases, though, I recommend thick CA glue between the brass tube and the case web (the drilled out portion of the case). I've never had CA glue fail at that joint.

Regards,
Eric

 

[rherrell]

OK, so yours touch, mine don't. The point I was trying to make is that when you use the nib from a kit you put alot of pressure on the tube while pressing it in. IMO a glue joint is not sufficient for this kind of pressure.
I don't use nibs from kits, only bullets, but I still solder all my tubes. You can't tell the difference between a glued tube and a soldered tube once the transmission is installed but I'll know the difference and I choose to go that extra step for my personal peace of mind.

 

[Sylvanite]

Originally posted by rherrell

The point I was trying to make is that when you use the nib from a kit you put alot of pressure on the tube while pressing it in. IMO a glue joint is not sufficient for this kind of pressure.

Which is a good point and I don't mean to detract from it. The joints we make need to withstand the forces that will be put upon them.

My experience with CA glue, however, seems to have been different than yours. I wont' deny that a good solder joint is very strong, but I've found a good CA glue joint to be plenty strong as well.

I don't use nibs from kits, only bullets, but I still solder all my tubes. You can't tell the difference between a glued tube and a soldered tube once the transmission is installed but I'll know the difference and I choose to go that extra step for my personal peace of mind.

And I certainly don't mean to criticize your assembly preference. By all means, stick with what works for you.

After having disassembled several cartridges with glued in tubes, however, my mind is at peace about the strength of that joint. The CA bond is much stronger than the transmission itself. That is to say, unless I released the bond with heat or solvents, the transmission broke before the glue separated.

I too, do not use the kit nib in cartridge pens. I prefer the look of a real bullet. So much so, that I began making and selling drilled out rifle cases with an installed bullet. Soldering in the tubes would make that impractical. I can't require my customers to solder -- that would destroy the finish. I can't solder the tubes myself without raising the price. Therefore, I had to make sure that a CA glue joint is strong enough - and I'm satisfied that it is.

Regards,
Eric

 

[Sylvanite]

Getting back to the original topic, I agree with the others. It sounds like the tube is moving inside the case when you press in the nib.

Two possibilities come to mind. First, have you tried seating a transmission? The upward (nibward?) force of the transmission may be enough to push the tube onto the nib. Second, if you happen to have a short section of scrap tube, you could slide that into the hole in the case head such that it bridges the gap between the glued-in tube and your pen press. Then you'll be pushing the nib against the tube, rather than against the case.

Good luck,
Eric

 

[rherrell]

Originally posted by Sylvanite

Getting back to the original topic, I agree with the others. It sounds like the tube is moving inside the case when you press in the nib.

Two possibilities come to mind. First, have you tried seating a transmission? The upward (nibward?) force of the transmission may be enough to push the tube onto the nib. Second, if you happen to have a short section of scrap tube, you could slide that into the hole in the case head such that it bridges the gap between the glued-in tube and your pen press. Then you'll be pushing the nib against the tube, rather than against the case.
Good luck,
Eric

That's a good piece of advice Eric, it just might work.[8D]

 

[RDH79]

Thanks for the replys. After working for hrs this weekend I think reddwil might have the answer. The glue my have been rubbery and the tube was bending in side the caseing and after the clamp was removed it spring the tip back out. Well the seller is replacing them for me so we'll see what the next batch is like. Thank Rich