Threading acrylic bodies and caps

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DaveM

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I am looking at the way our pens are built, and the way the larger companies do it. One of the big differences is that most of them have the threading right on the body of the pen, as opposed to little push in threaded couplers. Same for the caps on several of them. I would like to make some acrylics, and later some ebonite and cumberland pens with this design feature. I have access to a metal lathe with threading capabilities.

Would I be better off doing this directly on the lathe, or could I create a tap and die with the threads I want, and use them to make the pen's threads? It seems like the tap and die would be more foolproof, since I would only have to get them just right once. To cut a four start thread in both the cap and body of a pen would require eight separate threads to be cut, and I am not that accurate with a lathe. (Four of them would be inside of the cap too!) I was thinking of threading a slightly tapered rod, and then grinding slits into it to make a tap for the insides of the cap. Any real machinists have a better idea? I could just pull the tail stock slightly off center to get the taper.

To cut multistart threads, I would just need to adjust the cross feed between each course of threads, or use the compound, and calculate the amount using trig. (I think) I was just reading about multi start threads being cut using a thread chaser at twice the TPI of the setting on the lathe to make a two start thread. I was wondering if this would be feasible for a four point start, or if that is even necessary?

Has anybody gone down this road before, or am I losing it in my addiction to pens. (I spent a whole day on the 'net looking at Bill's fountain pen page, and every other site on the old pens)

Thanks,
Dave

p.s. Is there a really easy out for this, like a pre made tap and die set for these threads? I have been known to re invent the wheel forno particular reason before.
 
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btboone

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Dave, the only problem is that a tap will use a lot of force and likely explode a thin plastic part. It would be best to tap a thick plastic blank and turn it down to shape from there.

You're right about the thread chasing, you could do 2 start threads by picking twice the TPI and using opposite numbers on the thread dial. The same theory would work for quad starts. Use all 4 numbers on the dial then. If you can do single threads, you could do multiple threads if you know where to start them. They take a lot less cutting force than with a tap, where all the threads are being cut at once. Thread chasing really is the way to go for the types of threads on these things.
 

bgray

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I'm about to get started on this concept of threading bodies and caps, as well.

The body threads should present no problem. If you have a thread chasing dial on your lathe, that's the way to do it.

However, I'm nervous about the internal threads in the cap.

I know that there shouldn't be any real issues, but the thought of not being able to see what's going on scares me.
 

btboone

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Just run the lathe Reeeal slow. Take it one pass at a time.

It's funny, when the CNC does threads, it's so fast that you can hardly see it. There's no time to fix things if it was going to crash; your reaction time is just not that fast. It will do 12 passes before you know what happened. You just have to trust the numbers and walk away. You then feel how well the fit works and adjust numbers from there if necessary. When designing new and different threads for pens in CAD before running them, I've had a few work perfectly the first time out. It's pretty neat when that happens. Nip off the tips of the threads and allow a few thousandths of an inch between male and female parts.
 

Firefyter-emt

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The cap should not be all that bad. You want to cut the threads in the blank before the blank is turned. If it was me, (maybe someday) I would make a custom bushing to turn between centers. Drill and mill the blank flat, cut the threads and with a custom between center bushing that is threaded to match the pen body, with a bushing step & 60 degree center hole you can thread your bushing onto the cap blank. You could also make the same thread on bushing that has a thru hole and use normaly.

If you have dropped the center band, you can oversize the coupler end and beef up the material at the thread.
 
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