Tailstock quill travel mod/upgrade?

[nates02gt]

I did a little searching on this and didn't find much. I hope I am not the only one slightly frustrated with the quill travel limitations. I have the PSI Commander and drill all my blanks on my lathe. It works extremely well. The only frustration I have is having to stop midway usually to move the tailstock in so I can drill all the way through the blank. Does anyone know of any mods or upgrades (aside from getting a new lathe) that would increase the quill travel by a few inches?

 

[WriteON]

Not sure if there is an extended quill. However short is better, safer and more accurate. Rigidity is very important.

 

[Jim Burr]

That may be one of those "Ask before you buy" kinda things. Travel is limited, to some extent, by the cast housing of the tail stock...only so many threads per inch can be cut in the housing. There are ways to adapt to the limitation...let your imagination be your guide.

 

[monophoto]

In a perfect world, the first step in purchasing a lathe would be to put together a specification listing the key requirements that the tool must meet. And quill travel would be on that list for most turners.

But let's be honest - when the time comes to make a purchase decision, the buyer will almost always face some kind of compromise - technical specs, price, physical dimensions, etc.

And no matter how much quill travel a lathe offers, it will never be enough. There will always be projects that require more travel than any quill is designed to provide.

Also, regardless of how much travel a quill offers, it is still necessary to periodically back the bit out of the blank to clear the swarf.

So would I like more quill travel? Sure, but it's not going to happen. For me, one of the pleasures is the challenge of finding ways to do what the project requires in spite of whatever limitations my tools might have.

 

[WriteON]

In a perfect world, the first step in purchasing a lathe would be to put together a specification listing the key requirements that the tool must meet. And quill travel would be on that list for most turners.

the buyer will almost always face some kind of compromise.

Compromise is right. I'm thankful I can drill/square with the lathe. I don't have space for a drill press.

 

[PrestoTenebroso]

This is exactly what I'm looking for these days. Does anyone know how I might convert the tailstock to be lever operated so I can just throw the lever to drill, and pull out for chip clearing? That would save SO much time. I have a 7x10 HF.

 

[dbledsoe]

This is exactly what I'm looking for these days. Does anyone know how I might convert the tailstock to be lever operated so I can just throw the lever to drill, and pull out for chip clearing? That would save SO much time. I have a 7x10 HF.

Check Little Machine Shop. They have a mod kit for that purpose. I have it and it works fine.

 

[PrestoTenebroso]

This is exactly what I'm looking for these days. Does anyone know how I might convert the tailstock to be lever operated so I can just throw the lever to drill, and pull out for chip clearing? That would save SO much time. I have a 7x10 HF.

Check Little Machine Shop. They have a mod kit for that purpose. I have it and it works fine.

You're not talking about the 2018 cam lock to simply secure the tailstock, right? If not, can you send a link? I can't find it.

 

[KenV]

This is exactly what I'm looking for these days. Does anyone know how I might convert the tailstock to be lever operated so I can just throw the lever to drill, and pull out for chip clearing? That would save SO much time. I have a 7x10 HF.

Not conversion instructions but might be a source for parts and ideas. My Taig lathes come with a lever operated tail stock using a 0.498 shaft threased 3/8-24 for a drill chuck.

All the parts and pieces are available at modest cost. Google "nick carter taig" for diagrams and part costs. These are made in Arizona and parts are readily available.

 

[WriteON]

tailstock to be lever operated

I also have that on a Taig lathe. It's a great option.

 

[hard hat]

Once the hole is started I just unlock the tailstock clamp and slide the whole tailstock to drill. It's faster and easier. Just keep a hand on the chuck...

 

[nates02gt]

I visited our only woodshop in town today and the guy I was talking to there mentioned using a lever action on the tailstock. I had not heard of that before. When I purchased my lathe, I had, less knowledge than I probably should have (it was my first one). I probably didn't even know what quill travel was at the time. =) I will have to try unlocking the tailstock once the hole is started and see how that works. If anyone has any ideas on adding a lever action to a PSI Commander, that would be great!

 

[WriteON]

Once the hole is started I just unlock the tailstock clamp and slide the whole tailstock to drill. It's faster and easier. Just keep a hand on the chuck...

Sounds like a dangerous thing to do. Someone please correct or support me. I wouldn't do that.

 

[PrestoTenebroso]

Once the hole is started I just unlock the tailstock clamp and slide the whole tailstock to drill. It's faster and easier. Just keep a hand on the chuck...

Sounds like a dangerous thing to do. Someone please correct or support me. I wouldn't do that.

I've done it, but it's a REALLY bad idea, and I'm not looking to do it again. I've seen the chuck pull loose and it's not fun to imagine what might happen to my precious piano hands. It would be great to rig my HF lathe to do this, though.

 

[monophoto]

Simply sliding the tailstock toward the headstock is not dangerous.

However, if you need to move it in the other direction (and you must periodically move the bit out of the wood to clear the swarf), you must hold you hand on the Jacobs chuck - it's only held in place by a Morse taper (or to be more correct, two tapers, on J-33 on the chuck, and and MT-2 in the tailstock) and they can uncouple when you put everything in tension.

Another option is to mount a Jacobs chuck in a handle (like a tool), and simply press it into the center of the spinning blank. As crazy as this may seem, once you get it on center, it will remain on center. You can use a bit in a Jacobs chuck to start the hole, and then make it deeper with a handled bit. This is commonly done to drill depth holes in bowls or other hollow turnings.

 

[nates02gt]

I think this may be what the gentleman at the shop was talking about today.
Lever feed tailstock - mikesworkshop
has anyone ever used something like this? It seems like it would be great for drilling blanks.

 

[WriteON]

That's correct.