spray laquer

[pedro68]

hi all , i was wondering if anyone every uses clear spray laquer to finish there pens , i have to date used soft wax,carnuba wax and CA finishes but i have a can of clear laquer from another project i was working on and wondered if anyone had tried this.i dont want to be the first to try this incase i ruin a good pen . any tips or advice is welcome. thanks in advance .

Peter

 

[frank123]

I used some Rustoleum clear spray lacquer on a turned piece of wood (black mesquite) to test it out. (Didn't make anything other than a pen barrel sized round wood with it yet.) Carried it around in my with my keys and change pocket for a month or so and it held up very well under that abusive condition, I like the toughness and durability of the shine it has.

I applied three or so coats (don't recall exactly) with light sanding 600 - 1000 grit between coats to keep them smooth (probably my spraying caused the need for that). Used the lathe to apply it running at very low speed that I left turning till I was sure the stuff had set enough not to run. Then a final polish all the way from 600 through 2000 grit and a polish on a wheel with HF green stick and muslin wheel.

Took a day between coats since I didn't have any idea how long it actually takes this stuff to fully dry.

Don't know if this was the best brand to use or the best way to use it, just something I had on hand. Looked as fine as any finish I can imagine. Dipping lacquer seems to be preferred from what I read here and is probably better, but I'm not that good at turning yet and don't want to spend the money till I am.

 

[jfoh]

I have started using a lot of spray applied lacquer. The problem with it is the time it needs to dry and the need for dust a free drying area. I have made a down draft enclosed spray mini booth to hold the pens for both spraying and drying. I am now trying moderate heat to speed curing times and to make the lacquer harder. I do sand and polish the lacquer after it is done and am getting very nice final pens. Plus lacquer has a less plastic feel than CA.

 

[Jeannius]

I have used spray lacquer on pens (and other fine spindles) with success. using Chestnut acrylic gloss lacquer (blue can) which you should be able to get hold of up in Scotland.

Some observations:

If I heat up the wood slightly (NOT hot enough to break your blank/tube bond!) by friction with a piece of bounty/plenty towel in my left hand while shaking the can with my right, and then spray the lightest of coats with the lathe running at medium speed - it dries almost instantaneously.

I watched a demo by Terry of Chestnut products in which he did just that by first sanding the piece and then immediately spraying with some ebonising lacquer - literally within about 5 seconds, the coat was dry. I thought to try it on my other items I was making at the time and found it worked well enough that I started using the method on pens too.

The process works same with the clear lacquer so long as you are using a fresh can (i.e. not the end of a can) and your layers are the lightest spraying you can possibly do. At the end of the can, I notice that the lacquer gets quite thick and my results are not as good.

The lighter the coat - the more quickly you can apply new coats. The warmer and drier the workshop - the better and quicker the finish also. If your environment is cold and wet at all - expect the orange peel effect!

There comes a point where you will have to leave it to dry for a number of minutes with the lathe running slowly. This point seems to vary depending on the moisture/heat in my environment - and of course the rule of lacquering applies: it is only properly dry 30 seconds after you touch it!

Denibbing very lightly after each light coat seems to help too - I use the brown coloured ?webrax? also readily available in the UK.

Hope it helps.

 

[Joe S.]

I've used it like a friction polish, and will again once I actually decide to go buy another can!

 

[BradG]

I have started using a lot of spray applied lacquer. The problem with it is the time it needs to dry and the need for dust a free drying area. I have made a down draft enclosed spray mini booth to hold the pens for both spraying and drying. I am now trying moderate heat to speed curing times and to make the lacquer harder. I do sand and polish the lacquer after it is done and am getting very nice final pens. Plus lacquer has a less plastic feel than CA.

Care to share a pic of your booth?

 

[gbpens]

My primary finish is lacquer after a couple of seal coats of CA. Lacquer will dry to the touch quickly but several coats will be required which translates to several days of drying for a complete cure. Then wet sand. A dust free area is a must.

 

[Dalecamino]

I used Deft on this one. One of my early pens. There are some helpful comments from our members in this thread, if you care to read. It CAN be done, although this was the only pen I used laquer on.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f13/new-finish-no-mirror-8329/