spray lacquer ?

[dabeeler]

For those of you that spray lacquer on you pens, typically, how many coats do you spray over the top of a sanding sealer? Just curious. Also, I have not tried dipping in lacquer yet and am wondering what a single dip is approx. equivalent to in spray coats, anybody have a good guess?

Hope all had a great Christmas and can enjoy a very prosperous new year.

David

 

[robutacion]

For those of you that spray lacquer on you pens, typically, how many coats do you spray over the top of a sanding sealer? Just curious. Also, I have not tried dipping in lacquer yet and am wondering what a single dip is approx. equivalent to in spray coats, anybody have a good guess?

Hope all had a great Christmas and can enjoy a very prosperous new year.

David

Well David, I may be able to help you with this one...!

I would start with your last question about dipping, and there are a few things that you need to be aware of. Firstly, use a small container, preferential something that will allow to cover the pen barrel, using the least amount of lacquer as possible, as soon as you dip the barrel into the varnish the whole amount you have in the container will be contaminated and start reacting, if you use if straight from the tin, the whole thing will set and dry on you in a short period of time, decreasing the shelve life to 1/3 or less..!

Dipping, mainly after the wood is sealed, leaves no more no less than 1 (one) solid coat as if you would spray it to the running stage, which in all cases on counts for 1 coat.

When it comes to spray from a can, is quite different than spraying with a spray gun, the reason is that you can't thin or adjust anything in a can and the best results to achieve a gloss finish (only) is to spray a good/solid coat each time as with spray cans if you give it lots of very light coats you can achieve a reasonable satin finish but never a good gloss finish as every time you spray (re-coat) even if you have a gloss finish already, by giving a light spray the whole thing becomes satin or less due to vaporization of the lacquer and the propeller gas that makes the spray work. The very first mist contact from a new coat is dull, only continuing spraying while the lacquer is still fresh, will override this problem and coat the surface evenly with enough varnish that will produce the shine...!

How many coats...??? after a good sanding sealer coat and a gentle rub with fine sandpaper (400 or so) if the varnish is gloss, one solid coat should do it, if the varnish is matt or satin then, 2 light coats are better...!

I hope this helps...!

Cheers
George

 

[Russianwolf]

Couldn't have a more different experience than you George.

I use both Deft spray and brush on Lacquer. I have a 1 quart can of brush on for dipping that I've been using for well over a year, dipping straight in the can and it is just as good today as the day I bought it (about 1/3 less in the can though).

For the spray, I get nice glossy finishes that if done right, need very little polishing after curing to even out.

Dipping leaves a layer about the thickness of 4 coats of spray, but I can put 6 coats of spray on in the time of 1 dip so I do that more often now.

The trick that I've found is technique. I spray with the bushings in place and on the lathe. spinning by hand till I'm satisfied with coverage. I then remove from the lathe and stand on end to allow to self level and dry to touch. Next coat goes on the same but stood on opposite bushing. repeat until it is the thickness you want plus a little, then let cure a LOOOOONNNNNNNGGGGG time. Then go back to the lathe and polish with MM to even everythign out and bring back to final size.

For dipping, basically the same but takes longer drying to touch time, and fewer dips are need to get to thickness.

 

[robutacion]

Couldn't have a more different experience than you George.

I use both Deft spray and brush on Lacquer. I have a 1 quart can of brush on for dipping that I've been using for well over a year, dipping straight in the can and it is just as good today as the day I bought it (about 1/3 less in the can though).

For the spray, I get nice glossy finishes that if done right, need very little polishing after curing to even out.

Dipping leaves a layer about the thickness of 4 coats of spray, but I can put 6 coats of spray on in the time of 1 dip so I do that more often now.

The trick that I've found is technique. I spray with the bushings in place and on the lathe. spinning by hand till I'm satisfied with coverage. I then remove from the lathe and stand on end to allow to self level and dry to touch. Next coat goes on the same but stood on opposite bushing. repeat until it is the thickness you want plus a little, then let cure a LOOOOONNNNNNNGGGGG time. Then go back to the lathe and polish with MM to even everythign out and bring back to final size.

For dipping, basically the same but takes longer drying to touch time, and fewer dips are need to get to thickness.

Fair enough mate, there are always more than one way to skin the cat, apart from a huge variety of products sold worldwide, and all have its characteristics, one of the main factors of products "reactions" shelve time, performance and applications methods, just to name a few, there is one major important factor, there is the temperature and humidity averages of where we are, and certainly, in my neck of the woods, shelve life as an example is proportional to heat the product is exposed to even in a work-shop or shed.

Up here, hot temperatures play a major part in most of these type products, I have regularly, particularly in summer time where the shed reaches 50C++, a new tin of varnish as an example, open 2 or 3 times just to pour into other container (no contamination) in those times, means a gelled to rubbery varnish in less than 6 weeks, dipping wood into the can a couple times a day for a week and whatever is left regardless, will gel...!

I have actually made a thread about this exact problem, last year here nevertheless, I'm sure many others out there have had similar experiences to cover my description and your and anything else in between, I'm sure...!:wink::biggrin:

PS: And no...! the fridge is already loaded with enough chemicals, that shouldn't be there in the first place, only a big fridge and a very understanding wife, makes that possible...!

Cheers
George

 

[Russianwolf]

We can get into the 100F+ range here during the summer, and humidity can be up there. So who knows what all is making the differences in our observations. But it sounds like a can of lacquer thinner should be close at hand for you.

 

[JerrySambrook]

David, with lacquers, it is best to apply many thin coats. this way you minimize runs and orange peal (which I think George was refering to).

Lacquers will melt back into themselves typically, so applying some light coats over a day or so is better than a couple of heavy coats, when using the spray lacquers.

The dips are made to be thicker, and unless conditions are perfect, will typically give you a small amount of orange peal effect.

 

[glwalker]

My Experience With Lacquer

This may have already been said and I missed it, but spray Lacquer, Deft, will get cloudy if applied in high humidity. Also, though I haven't used it on pens, I've used it elsewhere (ie: mini clocks) and found it water spotted very easily. Good Luck.

I've had very good luck with spray acrylic.... the cheap Krylon stuff at Walmart. You can lightly sand and recoat in 10-15 minutes. MM until you get the gloss you want. Some times if applied well, you don't have to do anything. I use only gloss as the satin is just too satiny. I do this all on the lathe while turning at about 700 rpm. I cover the lathe bed with newspaper, but I just deal with the other overspray.