Some general questions about CA finishing....

[Warren White]

CA is my go-to finish, and I really like it. I could always use some counsel and advice on best procedures, however. So, some general questions:

I like to give the CA a bit of time between operations: between application and cleaning up the ends when there is some excess CA on the "no-stick" bushings. Why, you ask? I have had some concerns about getting too hurried and having the CA lift off the ends of the blank, particularly when the pen is assembled. I use Rick Herrell's off-set sanding jig (VERY low speed and 220 grit sandpaper). I REALLY like this jig!

I use I also like to let some time lapse between the clean up of the ends and when I begin the use of MicroMesh. No reason, other than wanting the CA to be REALLY set up.

So, the questions: Do my procedures seem reasonable? Is this what you do? Am I being too weird? If my cautions are reasonable, what time frame seems adequate? (I know that temperature and humidity factor in.) I generally let 24 hours elapse between operations.

Incidentally, I think my last finish application was a bit iffy because my Medium CA was a bit old and stiff. Fortunately, I had a new bottle in the fridge. Your thoughts on that are also welcome. My philosophy on that is influenced by my good friend Dieseldoc who says "Use it like someone else is buying it!"

Thanks in advance! You folks are a well spring of great counsel.

 

[FGarbrecht]

You do pretty much what I learned to do; slow is good, but how slow is not well defined. I like to give CA at least a couple of minutes between coats of thin CA, longer for medium CA (I try to put on very thin layers). If I try to slap layers on without a decent interval between layers, it starts to look messy and lumpy (and sometimes can develop cloudy spots), and at best requires more sanding/polishing later. I let things set for at least a couple of hours before starting end sanding or micromesh, if possible overnight. I assume that CA is similar to any adhesive: it may seem to be rock solid after a few minutes, but the polymerization reactions actually take a while to complete. That 5 minute epoxy doesn't reach full hardness for 24 to 72 hours. I haven't seen data on CA but it is probably a similar story: longer curing is better if you have the time.

 

[leehljp]

LOL, "Use it like someone else is buying it." When I lived overseas, I became a miser with CA, where it was fairly expensive, relative to the USA, I used plenty but it all went on the pen, not into the paper towel.

It seems like you are wanting to take your time and let it cure well. That is perfectly fine. On delicate segmented blanks, I did the same. Oily blanks can have the CA lift off when snapping it or even cutting it off. That I why I started using TBC.

Your overall philosophy is very close to mine - take my time and let it cure and the whole thing acclimate. It doesn't hurt a thing to do that. AND that is certainly better than tempting fate by seeing how fast one can get by.

 

[1080Wayne]

Pretty much what I do , except I apply the CA between 60 degree centers , rather than use non-stick bushings . One less item to buy per kit and keep track of . If I`m overly generous with the CA , a light score with a razor blade allows easy removal from the centers . CA on the centers easily removed by acetone , or let it cure for a few hours , then light tap with a hammer . Probably don`t need a full day between operations , but 6-12 hours sure helps .

 

[robutacion]

Yes, temperature plays a crucial part when working with CA, drying/setting times between coats and after all applications are done could not possibly be the same between countries and times of the year, let's consider 3 countries, (many other countries could be included) USA, Canada and Australia, at this time of the year the first 2 countries have low to very low temps, snow, ice, etc., while in Australia most of the country is experiencing 35°C to 42°C (I got 40°C) so, reading a comment here today about CA finishing it made me want to accentuate this reality and how it is expected to give you very different results so yes, temperature matter...!

As for the waiting time between the last CA application and starting the sanding procedures, the longer the better, again, the temperature is crucial but the main difference between sanding while the CA layers aren't properly set/harden and fully cured (I don't have any technical data to the CA curing times Vs number of applications/layers and CA viscosity) from my experience, you endup removing a lot more layers of CA and risking to sand through if the CA hasn't hardened sufficiently, you can accelerate the hardening by using a hair-dryer or a heat-gun but you have to be careful not to burn the finish (I have explained on many other threads how to use a heat-gun to help harden the CA layers) but for me an overnight at about 25°C ambient is good.

Cheers
George

 

[magpens]

I am rather impatient. I only use thin CA in thin, light coats. I apply 4 to 8 coats at my discretion depending on "divine inspiration" based on past experience with a particular wood and also depending on my "take" on how things are going for this particular pen. I spray each CA coat lightly with accelerator a few seconds after applying (15 seconds average, I would say). I wait 30 seconds or so and then repeat. I lightly sand with 600 grit, usually after every second coat. After 4 to 8 coats, I sand "to completion", which usually means with progressive grits up to 2000. Then comes the polishing using Novus 3, Novus 2, and PlastiX. I don't claim to be an expert. Perhaps the quality of my finishes would improve if I allowed more time for the total process. But I could not bear to extend the process over a period of hours. I use only the blue paper shop towel material for the CA application. . I have tried the craft foam but get inferior results with it compared to the blue shop towel. Ambient temperature matters and when the weather is cold I shine a heat lamp "sparingly" on the pen during the process but do not otherwise alter my process.