small nick in acrylics?

[Quality Pen]

I have only just started with acrylic, but if there is a small nick, how do you fix it? Would a simple solution like CA work as it can with wood? I can't really think of anything besides turning it down more, or experimenting with CA to basically build it back up.

Thanks.

 

[BayouPenturner]

I have sanded the area then used ca to bring it back up. A lot depends on the size of the chip .

good luck

 

[Quality Pen]

I have sanded the area then used ca to bring it back up. A lot depends on the size of the chip .

good luck

So far I have only encountered very small divots, a fraction of a millimeter in diameter. If you weren't looking for it with a scrutinizing eye you probably wouldn't notice.

However, you do broach upon another interesting point as well -- how to fix a more sizeable imperfection in an acrylic?

 

[brownsfn2]

Depends how much the blank costs. Usually I throw it away and get another one.

 

[Ted iin Michigan]

Voids can occur in acrylics and they are normally easily filled with CA. Works super good esp if you are going for a gloss finish. Same is true for nicks, etc. the issue with this process is blending or feathering the CA into the surrounding material so it "disappears". With some acrylics, it's easy to oversand. Then you're done.

 

[plantman]

I have filled bubbles and good sized nicks in acrylic and defects in wooden blanks with thick or gap filling CA . Two things I have found out by trial and err (heavy on the err side). Don't try to fill it all at once if it is deep. Put a drop of gap filling or thick CA in the hole or dip and let it sit for 5-10 seconds. Hit it with accelerator, wipe dry, take a fine metal or diamond file and smooth down the drop level with the surounding surface. Refill if needed, but make sure you wipe or clean off your blank of any sanding dust before adding another drop of CA or it will show up as white spots in your finish. 2ed if you use thin or medium CA it will fume and turn white or cloudy. Not a good look!! Sand any file marks from your blank, clean with a tac rag or whatever you are acustomed to using, and add more coats of CA to your blank. If your defect allows the brass tube to show through, put a small dab of matching color paint to cover the brass before filling. If you sand corretly and apply the CA properly, you will have a smooth glassy finish and won't see the repair. I am sure there are many other ways people deal with this problem and I hope that they will add their knowledge to this thread. Also check the library on this site for more information on using CA glues. Jim S

 

[sschering]

For a small chip I wouldn't hesitate to try filling with thick CA.. I'll fill it up as best as I can then go watch TV for awhile.. come back and keep adding till it's built up enough to turn back round.

 

[Sylvanite]

My procedure for filling a small pit is very similar to Jim's (plantman). I build up CA on that spot until it's proud of the blank and then I turn it back down. Whether or not the CA glue will foam or cloud depends on the brand of glue and type of accelerator. With the ones I use, my experience is directly opposite Jim's. Thick CA may foam when accelerated. Thin and medium generally do not. You may need to experiment some to find what works for you.

I hope that helps,
Eric

 

[Ambidex]

The only thing I would add to the previous posts is if it's a deeper chip, try smoothing the edges enough so you can't see the sharp chip-out angles but don't leave embedded scratches..ca seems to disappear faster when there's not angular edges..plus show us some pics...it may not be to that point...

 

[plantman]

My procedure for filling a small pit is very similar to Jim's (plantman). I build up CA on that spot until it's proud of the blank and then I turn it back down. Whether or not the CA glue will foam or cloud depends on the brand of glue and type of accelerator. With the ones I use, my experience is directly opposite Jim's. Thick CA may foam when accelerated. Thin and medium generally do not. You may need to experiment some to find what works for you.

I hope that helps,
Eric

Eric; That is a good thing to know. I have never used anything that was not made by the same manufacture. Cyanoacrylate (sign-an-no-ack-rill-ate), for those who want to know how to pronounce it, is a one-step self setting glue and is triggered by either moisture or alkalines. Air cures using the moisture in the air around you or in your fingers.

It seems odd that the fastest of all glues would need an accelertor!! Truth is it doesn't, but it actually does more than just speed up the cure. You will get a better bond on oily or high acid content woods (Oak) if you spray or wipe accelerator on one side of the joint before putting the glue on the other. I use this method for joining dissimilar materials together in segmenting. You can also speed up a bond by spraying it after the parts are together.


Wear disposable gloves and goggles when using. The fumes of CA are irritating to your eyes and lungs, but not particulary harmfull. CA is not a carcinogenic and does not contain cyanide as reported on the internet. However it is flammable and will stick to your skin, so be careful not to stick yourself to anything. An old ER treatment to remove CA from your skin, is to soak it in the hotest water you can stand. This will make your skin sweat, and the oils it releaces from your skin will loosen the CA. Also aceatone or a CA debonder will work. More information than you probably wanted to know, but a little knowledge never hurt anybody, and could save you a trip to the ER. Jim S

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Do you have a nick to repair or is your question hypothetical?

Probably will only be a potential issue with inlace type material on a regular basis.