Slimline Bushings

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rjwolfe3

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Which are the best Slimline bushings to use? And are all Slimline bushings the same size no matter were you buy them from? I have the black coated ones from PSI and they are just about wore out. Are the non-coated ones better? I have been checking with calipers but I like using the bushings to get it close. Thanks.
 
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rjwolfe3

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Wow, no opinions. Maybe it's because I used the dreaded "Slimline" in my post, lol.:D What about bushings in general where they are available from more then one vendor? Are all bushings the same for one style of pen, no matter where you buy them from?
 

mrcook4570

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Originally posted by rjwolfe3
Are all bushings the same for one style of pen, no matter where you buy them from?
It depends. Some models use the same bushings, regardless of manufacture (i.e. slim, cigar, polaris/atlas/patriot). Others may be different at only one end (CSU 7mm Euro vs. Berea 7mm Euro).

IIRC, someone compiled a bushing chart.
 

wdcav1952

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Rob, unless I miss my guess, the coating is just paint that wears off quickly. For the standard slimline, I would choose to use whichever supplier I am ordering from at the time.
 

rjwolfe3

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I guess what I'm trying to figure out is if all bushings generate the same amount of dust and wear down the same no matter where you buy them from? I have bushings from at least 4 different sources and it appears that even from the same source there are different qualities. The best I've found seem to be non coated and a shiny finish for lack of a better term. The metal doesn't seem to wear off as easily. For example, I haven't turned 30 slimlines yet but the bushings are already worn down and I don't even sand that close to them. It just seems that the black coated bushings wear down faster or maybe it's all in my head:D[}:)]. What do you all think?
 

wdcav1952

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Rob, usually thinking makes my head hurt!! You may wish to consider making some finishing bushings out of Delrin, corian or the like. I have also heard of people using a thin shim of stiff plastic with a 1/4" hole in it between the bushing and the blank. That will keep you from sanding your bushings. Just be careful, make the shim just a little bit bigger than the bushing and don't let your fingers try out the shim!

The other method lazy people like me use is to consider bushings semi-disposable.
 

alamocdc

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Rob, I really chewed up my first set of 7mm bushings (black coated PSI) the first few months I was learning. The replacements (also from PSI) were not black and I'm still using them 4 years later.
 

sbell111

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Originally posted by wdcav1952...The other method lazy people like me use is to consider bushings semi-disposable.
That's my solution.

When I initially order a new type of pen kit, I'll only buy one set of bushings. However, if the kit becomes one that we want to keep making, I'll try to make sure that we have a few spre sets on-hand for when they get worn out.
 

MobilMan

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The 'shiney' ones are harder. I buy mine from Woodcraft. Some people say you should use the bushings that go with the seller. Woodcraft/kit & bushing. PSI/ kit & bushing. CSUSA {same] I plan on finding out for myself. I've got some CSUSA kits & some Woodcraft kits & a new set of bushings from CSUSA. Going to try both with the same bushings & see if theres a diff. That was the purpose for me buying them. Curious.
 

sbell111

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Alternatively, you could just caliper the bushings to see if there is a difference. You could also measure the size of the pen bits. It would be interesting to see if any differences among the pen parts actually correspond to differences among the bushings from the same suppliers.
 

keithkarl2007

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I picked up 5 cigar pen kits and went about turning one but there was a bit of play inside the tube with the bushing, if i recall the bushings came with the kits
 
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