Shakespeare owned a metal lathe?

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

Gilrock

Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2011
Messages
560
Location
Tucson, AZ
I think so...because "Parting is such sweet sorrow." :biggrin:

Anyways I figured I'd open a new thread instead of turning the lathe purchase decision thread into a parting discussion.

So I watched the 3 videos from the link skiprat provided here:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f166/baileigh-vs-precision-matthews-103022/index4.html#post1460948

If you listen around 2:20 in video #1 he says that parting can be difficult on smaller hobby lathes for the home machinist but then I've already found that out. One thing the video did was give me a little more confidence with parting off aluminum. He was spinning the dial about as fast as he could with no issue. I can't go quite that fast but I tried last night and I'm able to move much faster than I have been.

Then I went back to the hard stuff. I parted off a piece of 5/8" O1 tool steel. I got the job done but I took like 10 minutes. I tried 2 different blades one of which has carbide brazed on the edge. I freshly sharpened the blades. I made the setup as rigid as is possible with my current setup. My blade just doesn't cut into the steel anywhere near like what I see in the video. I tried a couple different speeds. He was using 600 rpm so I tried that and didn't get anywhere. I had better luck at 300 rpm. What I observe is as the blade hits the steel it doesn't start to dig in...it just seems to build up pressure. That's the part that kinda scares me because I can feel it taking too much pressure for me to turn the knob with nothing happening. If I just let go at this point I can hear it rub for several seconds then all of sudden it seems to bite and dig in and makes a cut. This sudden dig in is where I've had major issues before. The only thing I can think of that might be wrong is I could be a few thousandths above the centerline. The problem is my tool holder is bottomed out...it won't go any lower. I've got the Phase II AXA 100 QCTP with the parting tool holder that fits it. Another thing I see in the video is he mentioned the blade being perpendicular but my tool holder is designed to hold the blade at an angle. I forget but it's something like 4 or 7 degree rake. Since I had so much chatter to be safe I kept advancing the blade in a few thousandths and then moving it over a few and advancing in again. Just keep repeating back and forth so that theres a little room if the chatter vibrates the blade. I actually got that technique from "Chris's Tips" underneath the section where you order the parting blades from LMS.

Anyways I just don't know if my lathe is big or rigid enough to part that tool steel cleanly like I see in that video. Even that other video where the guy had the small lathe making big cuts he says it was "a stunt" and that it was risking burning up the electronics. I could also tell he had made a lot of custom pieces to that lathe which must have improved rigidity issues. He also was able to manually feather the speed during the cut...something my lathe isn't capable of.

So I still think if I ever get a chance to upgrade I'll be seriously considering that Precision Matthews 1127VF. Although it may be dangerous...Justin (Timebandit) got one and has never been heard from again. Joking of course but I have missed seeing him around the forum...I used to have half his posts bookmarked when I was learning what taps and dies and drill bits to use for starting kitless.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

BRobbins629

Passed Away Dec 28, 2021
In Memoriam
Joined
Mar 8, 2006
Messages
4,037
Location
Richmond, VA, USA.
Any time I needed to part steel, I did it with a band saw or hack saw then made a facing cut. Learned that from the man who convinced me a 7x12 was perfect for my needs (Chuck Key) - thanks John - its been working great for 5 years.
 

mredburn

IAP Activities Manager
Staff member
Joined
Jul 5, 2009
Messages
8,754
Location
Fort Myers FL
IF you cant get it low enough it will not cut properly or at all you may have to find another way. Like Bruce's does.
 

Gilrock

Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2011
Messages
560
Location
Tucson, AZ
Well I don't own a bandsaw that will cut steel and the plastic handle on my hacksaw broke so I guess I'm stuck buying the PM lathe. :)
 

Donovan

Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2012
Messages
271
Location
South Africa Walkerville
If your tool holder is bottoming out there are two things that you can do. You can reground the tool tip to give you the correct tool height or if you know somebody with a mill they can fly cut the tool holder to the correct height (the last suggestion is what I did, I have a mill)
Hope this helps
 

KenV

Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2005
Messages
4,720
Location
Juneau, Alaska.
If your tool holder is bottoming out there are two things that you can do. You can reground the tool tip to give you the correct tool height or if you know somebody with a mill they can fly cut the tool holder to the correct height (the last suggestion is what I did, I have a mill)
Hope this helps

A few minutes with a file will also remove the excess metal
 

Gilrock

Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2011
Messages
560
Location
Tucson, AZ
Yeah and I will point out that although I'm not parting as efficient as I'd like...I'm still getting the job done much faster than anyone could with a hacksaw.
 

randyrls

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2006
Messages
4,836
Location
Harrisburg, PA 17112
Gil; Some folks put the parting tool upside down and mount it on the back side of the cross-slide. A plinth block makes a solid support. The only advantage to this is that the chips clear the cut better.

When parting you MUST BE EXACTLY on the center line of the stock. Close doesn't count! For a 5/8" diameter stock that correct speed is about 100+ RPM. I have variable speed, so I can up the speed as the parting cut progresses and the surface-feet-per-minute goes down. The other suggestion is to shift sideways a short amount so you don't bind the tool in the sides of the cut.
 
Top Bottom