Segmented Triton FTN

[MikeL]

Tried something a little different with the aluminum. Took quite some time to get the dots evenly spaced and seated in the wood secure enough to turn. The wood is exhibition grade curly Tasmanian and African Blackwood. Not sure why I had trouble getting a focused picture this time. This could be my excuse to sink a few hundred into a camera, no wait, I want that pressure pot, or was it the new nova chuck, or....

Thanks for looking,
Mike

 

[Jim15]

Great pen.

 

[DRAT]

Absolutely beautiful!

DRAT

 

[Karl_99]

Beautiful pen!!! I really like the wood pairing you did.

 

[ChrisN]

Very nice pen!

 

[Frank Nemke sr]

very nice pen

Tried something a little different with the aluminum. Took quite some time to get the dots evenly spaced and seated in the wood secure enough to turn. The wood is exhibition grade curly Tasmanian and African Blackwood. Not sure why I had trouble getting a focused picture this time. This could be my excuse to sink a few hundred into a camera, no wait, I want that pressure pot, or was it the new nova chuck, or....

Thanks for looking,
Mike

I love it.May I ask you how do you get the dot's in the black.

 

[NittanyLion]

Those dots look nicely spaced and lined up....that's tough to get just right....at least for me. Very nice looking pen.

 

[Tom T]

Sir that is a fantastic pen, beautiful. Wow

 

[Carl Fisher]

Very nice. Do you have a shot of it closed?

 

[longbeard]

Thats a purty one, but i like the finish also. Great job.

 

[thewishman]

Great pen!

 

[MikeL]

Very nice. Do you have a shot of it closed?

Sorry it took this long to respond. Just got back from an exciting little league championship Baseball game.

This round of pictures weren't so great for some reason. Attached is the best shot I have of the pen closed. Appreciate the comments. Mike

 

[MikeL]

Tried something a little different with the aluminum. Took quite some time to get the dots evenly spaced and seated in the wood secure enough to turn. The wood is exhibition grade curly Tasmanian and African Blackwood. Not sure why I had trouble getting a focused picture this time. This could be my excuse to sink a few hundred into a camera, no wait, I want that pressure pot, or was it the new nova chuck, or....

Thanks for looking,
Mike

I love it.May I ask you how do you get the dot's in the black.

I spaced out and measured for even spacing and then drilled starter holes with a centering bit. Then finished the drilling with a bit that matched the aluminum tube. I built a simple jig for my drill press to make sure each hole drilled was precise and right down to the brass tube insert. Then I used CA to insert the aluminum. Thanks for the comments. Mike

 

[SteveJ]

Very nice looking pen.

 

[jttheclockman]

Tried something a little different with the aluminum. Took quite some time to get the dots evenly spaced and seated in the wood secure enough to turn. The wood is exhibition grade curly Tasmanian and African Blackwood. Not sure why I had trouble getting a focused picture this time. This could be my excuse to sink a few hundred into a camera, no wait, I want that pressure pot, or was it the new nova chuck, or....

Thanks for looking,
Mike

I love it.May I ask you how do you get the dot's in the black.

I spaced out and measured for even spacing and then drilled starter holes with a centering bit. Then finished the drilling with a bit that matched the aluminum tube. I built a simple jig for my drill press to make sure each hole drilled was precise and right down to the brass tube insert. Then I used CA to insert the aluminum. Thanks for the comments. Mike

I like the pen alot. I think the aluminum dots adds a very fine touch. I think this is something more segmenters should try adding to their pens. The method you used is not an easy one. When you measured for the dots, what state was the blank in?? Was it completely turned to size or did you do this when square or some other stage??? Thanks for showing. This should go into the segmenting forum.

 

[mikespenturningz]

Wow that is a real beauty. I love the dots you put in the cap it really sets it off. Don't forget to post it in the no comments thread in segmenting.

 

[MikeL]

Tried something a little different with the aluminum. Took quite some time to get the dots evenly spaced and seated in the wood secure enough to turn. The wood is exhibition grade curly Tasmanian and African Blackwood. Not sure why I had trouble getting a focused picture this time. This could be my excuse to sink a few hundred into a camera, no wait, I want that pressure pot, or was it the new nova chuck, or....

Thanks for looking,
Mike

I love it.May I ask you how do you get the dot's in the black.

I spaced out and measured for even spacing and then drilled starter holes with a centering bit. Then finished the drilling with a bit that matched the aluminum tube. I built a simple jig for my drill press to make sure each hole drilled was precise and right down to the brass tube insert. Then I used CA to insert the aluminum. Thanks for the comments. Mike

I like the pen alot. I think the aluminum dots adds a very fine touch. I think this is something more segmenters should try adding to their pens. The method you used is not an easy one. When you measured for the dots, what state was the blank in?? Was it completely turned to size or did you do this when square or some other stage??? Thanks for showing. This should go into the segmenting forum.

Thanks for the compliments. I turned the blank about a 1/8" proud of the bushing and then measured and drilled. I cut the aluminum about a 1/4" longer than the hole to be able to handle it (insert it). Once the CA stood for about two hours I tried using a dremel to sand down the extra length. Bad idea. I think the heat made the pieces fall out. I re-glued and cut the extra off with a fine tooth pull hand saw and then turned to the proper size.

 

[jttheclockman]

Tried something a little different with the aluminum. Took quite some time to get the dots evenly spaced and seated in the wood secure enough to turn. The wood is exhibition grade curly Tasmanian and African Blackwood. Not sure why I had trouble getting a focused picture this time. This could be my excuse to sink a few hundred into a camera, no wait, I want that pressure pot, or was it the new nova chuck, or....

Thanks for looking,
Mike

I love it.May I ask you how do you get the dot's in the black.

I spaced out and measured for even spacing and then drilled starter holes with a centering bit. Then finished the drilling with a bit that matched the aluminum tube. I built a simple jig for my drill press to make sure each hole drilled was precise and right down to the brass tube insert. Then I used CA to insert the aluminum. Thanks for the comments. Mike

I like the pen alot. I think the aluminum dots adds a very fine touch. I think this is something more segmenters should try adding to their pens. The method you used is not an easy one. When you measured for the dots, what state was the blank in?? Was it completely turned to size or did you do this when square or some other stage??? Thanks for showing. This should go into the segmenting forum.

Thanks for the compliments. I turned the blank about a 1/8" proud of the bushing and then measured and drilled. I cut the aluminum about a 1/4" longer than the hole to be able to handle it (insert it). Once the CA stood for about two hours I tried using a dremel to sand down the extra length. Bad idea. I think the heat made the pieces fall out. I re-glued and cut the extra off with a fine tooth pull hand saw and then turned to the proper size.

Thanks for the reply. When I do dots I sand them down using my stationary belt sander. At times I also use a dremel with a metal cutting wheel. Nice work. Don't stop there though. Lets see the next project.

 

[mikebpeters]

any trouble keeping the dots seated while you turned it?

 

[MikeL]

any trouble keeping the dots seated while you turned it?

No. Once I hand sawed it to the barrel, I took small non-aggressive cuts. It was no problem using the carbide tipped blades to turn. One thing I will do different next time is to look for a drill bit that will clean out the bottom completely. Can't think of what those bits are called. I am trying to refer to bits that will square out the bottom rather than have just the point or tip clean out the bottom. The squared bottom will match the profile of the dot insert better therefore having more surface area for glue. Mike

 

[Janster]

That's a KEEPER for sure. Well done and be well................Jan

 

[Super Dave]

Beautiful, nice combination of wood, aluminum, and pen kit. Great job.

Dave

 

[firewhatfire]

well I maight just be inspired enough to give dots a try. gotta do a few practice runs on a scrap wood next week and see how they go.

looks like a fun build.

Phil

 

[jttheclockman]

any trouble keeping the dots seated while you turned it?

No. Once I hand sawed it to the barrel, I took small non-aggressive cuts. It was no problem using the carbide tipped blades to turn. One thing I will do different next time is to look for a drill bit that will clean out the bottom completely. Can't think of what those bits are called. I am trying to refer to bits that will square out the bottom rather than have just the point or tip clean out the bottom. The squared bottom will match the profile of the dot insert better therefore having more surface area for glue. Mike

Mike

Not sure exactly what you are looking for but you can try an endmill bit. You can try a brad point bit which still not get you completely flat. Or you can use a router bit which is what I use but I use a router and my jig which I have shown here. You could try them in a drill press. It probably will work.

As yopu have found out with some of these kits there is just too little material left when turned and without a flat bottom hole the room for error is very marginal.

What I would suggest and maybe doable for the method you use, is to drill your holes before you insert your tubes. This way you can drill almost to the center of the blank. Now when you go to drill for the tubes the holes are always drilled to the tube and flat bottomed. Insert the tube and glue in the dots all at the same time. I would use an epoxy that has some open time so you can work confortably. This is the way I do it. Hope that makes sense.

 

[MikeL]

any trouble keeping the dots seated while you turned it?

No. Once I hand sawed it to the barrel, I took small non-aggressive cuts. It was no problem using the carbide tipped blades to turn. One thing I will do different next time is to look for a drill bit that will clean out the bottom completely. Can't think of what those bits are called. I am trying to refer to bits that will square out the bottom rather than have just the point or tip clean out the bottom. The squared bottom will match the profile of the dot insert better therefore having more surface area for glue. Mike

Mike

Not sure exactly what you are looking for but you can try an endmill bit. You can try a brad point bit which still not get you completely flat. Or you can use a router bit which is what I use but I use a router and my jig which I have shown here. You could try them in a drill press. It probably will work.

As yopu have found out with some of these kits there is just too little material left when turned and without a flat bottom hole the room for error is very marginal.

What I would suggest and maybe doable for the method you use, is to drill your holes before you insert your tubes. This way you can drill almost to the center of the blank. Now when you go to drill for the tubes the holes are always drilled to the tube and flat bottomed. Insert the tube and glue in the dots all at the same time. I would use an epoxy that has some open time so you can work confortably. This is the way I do it. Hope that makes sense.

Makes perfect sense. That is a great idea and tip. I will definitely use that next time which might be this weekend. Thanks much.

 

[CrimsonKeel]

Great pen. i tried some aluminum inserts but man were mine ever off center. Ill have ot get some centering bits and whip up a jig.
also the flat bottomed bits are forstner bits

 

[jttheclockman]

Great pen. i tried some aluminum inserts but man were mine ever off center. Ill have ot get some centering bits and whip up a jig.
also the flat bottomed bits are forstner bits

Won't get a fostner bit that small.

 

[Dalepenkala]

Mike just a wonderful looking pen! Congrats on that pen!

 

[jyreene]

Mike

Not sure exactly what you are looking for but you can try an endmill bit. You can try a brad point bit which still not get you completely flat. Or you can use a router bit which is what I use but I use a router and my jig which I have shown here. You could try them in a drill press. It probably will work.

As yopu have found out with some of these kits there is just too little material left when turned and without a flat bottom hole the room for error is very marginal.

What I would suggest and maybe doable for the method you use, is to drill your holes before you insert your tubes. This way you can drill almost to the center of the blank. Now when you go to drill for the tubes the holes are always drilled to the tube and flat bottomed. Insert the tube and glue in the dots all at the same time. I would use an epoxy that has some open time so you can work confortably. This is the way I do it. Hope that makes sense.

Mike pointed me back here from a question I have. Mostly answered but your suggestion has me asking a new one. Won't putting the aluminum after the tube is in place even if pre drilled still butt against the convex surface of the tube? Would make sense to drill put the aluminum dots in then drill so the tube butts against the dot completely?

 

[Bobostro61]

Nice pen there! I like!

 

[Janster]

.......Mike, outstanding job on your pens. When I did something similar to the dot placements I used a totally different approach. maybe you can "get" something out of this approach. Be well...........Jan

 

[LL Woodworks]

Beauty

 

[jyreene]

.......Mike, outstanding job on your pens. When I did something similar to the dot placements I used a totally different approach. maybe you can "get" something out of this approach. Be well...........Jan

Yeah. Like this. See pictures sure help me! You beat me to it by about 2 years. Or 12. I can be slow.

 

[jttheclockman]

Mike

Not sure exactly what you are looking for but you can try an endmill bit. You can try a brad point bit which still not get you completely flat. Or you can use a router bit which is what I use but I use a router and my jig which I have shown here. You could try them in a drill press. It probably will work.

As yopu have found out with some of these kits there is just too little material left when turned and without a flat bottom hole the room for error is very marginal.

What I would suggest and maybe doable for the method you use, is to drill your holes before you insert your tubes. This way you can drill almost to the center of the blank. Now when you go to drill for the tubes the holes are always drilled to the tube and flat bottomed. Insert the tube and glue in the dots all at the same time. I would use an epoxy that has some open time so you can work confortably. This is the way I do it. Hope that makes sense.

Mike pointed me back here from a question I have. Mostly answered but your suggestion has me asking a new one. Won't putting the aluminum after the tube is in place even if pre drilled still butt against the convex surface of the tube? Would make sense to drill put the aluminum dots in then drill so the tube butts against the dot completely?

Yes this can be done the way you are suggesting. But from my experience if you do that you now are drilling through these tiny rods and they are sure to catch on the drill bit which in turn will loosen the bond. You are not talking much of a convex shape when dealing with small tubes such as 1/8" or even 3/16". Take a rod of that size and place it against the tube and you will see the gap is very minimal. Too much pucker factor for me to use that method. With epoxy on both the tubes and the rods I am assured of a good solid bond. I then next concentrate on turning. Hey I always say there are many ways to do any project. Your method is surely doable but i gave you my reasons why I would not do it.

Not to hijack this thread but here is an example of dots and I would really would have to be worried if I used your method on this one.

 

[jyreene]

That makes perfect sense John. I haven't gotten much into segmenting so I haven't gotten to learn about drilling explosions much.