segmented pens

[Drcal]

My attempts at segmenting are generally poor, especially when I am working with a typical 3/4X3/4 inch blank that I have bought precut. There are rarely 2 sides that a square so it is impossible to cut a 90 degree cut. Stripes in a contrasting wood, for example, are generally a little crooked. The blank is too small for a jointer and table saw...what is it that I am missing? I would love to do some simple segmenting with straight lines. Help!

Carmen

 

[GouletPens]

A Byrnes thickness sander will help, though it's a bit of cash to cough up for just hobby stuff. http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/discsander.html?id_mm=1022MM551296

 

[Daniel]

Carmen, not trying to be rude at all, But I have been setting here thinking about your question for about 5 min and still cannot deside just how to try and respond to it. It is a bit like saying "My pens are not turning out right, what am I doing wrong". There is a lot involved in cutting up itty bitty pieces of wood into nice neat even smaller pieces. then getting them all back together so you can make a pen from them.

I am not sure what you have tried in the way of jigs etc. but some time searching for ideas along that line might be time well spent.

 

[Dan26]

Carmen,

I've done a few segmented pens and have tweaked by process slightly each time. The cuts and fit get better each time, also. All of my tools are old (but not older than me) and I'm so cheap I make some jigs to make the cuts I need. I have yet to make the perfect cuts, but I'm pretty happy with my progress. Keep at it, read some of the posts and as my coach use to tell me "practice, practice, practice." If you have the tools and want squarer blanks, just buy larger pieces of timber and cut the blanks youself.

 

[Drcal]

Daniel, I can appreciate your confusion. My pens, in general, are fine but my segmented ones are not. I have a hard time with segmenting small pieces. Basically, I don't know how. I have segmented other bigger things---large pillar candle holders, trivets, etc. but I use a jointer and a table saw to get the stock square before I go to various jigs and I also start out with much large pieces of stock. Hope tat makes sense.

 

[BigguyZ]

I'm no expert. In fact, I've done very few segmented pens, and they were of the simplest variety. However, my reccomendation would be to start with a larger piece of wood, square THAT, then cut smaller peices off that should be a consistent thickness and squareness.

 

[RAdams]

http://www.turnedwood.com/framesled.html

 

[hewunch]

When I glue up my segments I work off a flat man made board (malimine). I put a piece of clear packing tape down and I clamp my first piece to the board. This does several things.
1. It gives me 1 fairly flat side to start with
2. It helps me get my joints tight as I can use another series of clamps to really hold stuff together.
The packing tape does not stick very well to CA so that means I can move on to the next cut quickly.

Next I use a belt sander to sand one edge and then I can sand or saw another side.
Another thing you can do is put Sticky sand paper on the same board and you have a fairing board where you can keep things flat. A little more work, but helpful with segments sometimes.

 

[leehljp]

I will throw my two yen in. Different people arrive at the same destination of segments from different directions and they all work. Some people do marvelous jobs with Band Saws and a jig to keep everything square. Some do the same with a large table saw. The key is jigs and what you feel safe with. One aspect is hold down clamps with the alignment jigs. Down at the bottom are 3 links to a saw that I made from a 7 inch circular saw, along with two sliding tables and a lengthwise alignment jig. Not shown are two hold down and precision adjustment jig for cutting ends. I have seen every bit as good a jigs for 10 inch table saws on the forum and am posting a link to sliding table jig made my Rick Herrell:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=39234

I will say that straight cuts and hold downs are essential for simple segments. But there is a way around that. Glue a segment on the tube, put the bushings on and turn the ends of the segment with a parting tool. Add another segment and do the same. Separating the segments with brass or aluminum usually enhances the visual appeal.


Below is the table that I made to use very thin kerf blades - 1mm

Full table and sliding table in a table.

http://www.penturners.org/photos/images/940/1_Precision_Jig_1.jpg

Base Table

http://www.penturners.org/photos/images/940/1_Table_1st_view.jpg

Base Sliding Table

http://www.penturners.org/photos/images/940/1_Table_Sled_2.jpg

 

[Chief Hill]

Carmen I am just wondering what it is your trying to get into as far as segmenting goes. I attached a pic of some of my FIRST segmented pens that I have done. The best part of segmenting is that it is original. No 2 exactly alike. Dont put so much thought into 90 deg angles and perfect sided etc. YOU DONT NEED IT. I have NO scrap left over after segmenting. Why? Every little piece off off cut I have goes back into a segemented design. So Start by taking 1 piece of your off cut. Drill a 7mm hole in it, Glue in a long 7mm tube and start drilling and stacking different colors on top using other diffrent pieces of off cut. Thats segmenting. Then you can get into some more stuff. Walk before you run here.

I take 2 pieces of of cut glue them together, cut them in half, twist them then re-glue again Gives me a mini checker type pattern. Nobody taught me how. Trial and error. My best friend is my disk / Belt sander in my shop. Never touch my planner. and I never "square off the outside of my blanks" for most of my segmenting. My website has a bunch of my segmented stuff. And its all PERFECT tight joints. No squaring off the blank before starting.

Just play with your scraps and you will see what you can do.

 

[fernhills]

I will echo the belt/disc sander as well for segments. Once it set up square, it is fast and safe. Carl

 

[waynewright]

Carman, Barry Gross has a book on pen turning that is very detailed on making segmented pens. Its titled "The Pen Turner's Workbook, 2nd edition. It also has other very good tips on making pens as well. I used his technique and had no problems making segmented pens. Hope this helps

Wayne

 

[dale]

I'm still kind of new at penturning. But I am the kind of guy that likes to tackle the hard ones. Seems the only trouble I've had with segments. Was drilling slow to make sure the bit traveled straight. I will echo disk/belt saw saves a lot of grief. What I do may be wrong is I take the two pieces I am going to glue together sand them flat as my eye can see glue them then the next two sanded like the first glue them then take those sand them & glue them. I know hard to follow but what I make sure of is that when all glued up the center lines all match in the middle so after drilling it in the center you will turn away that part that doesn't match. Hope that made sense. If not I'm sorry for wasting your time
Dale

 

[fernhills]

Hi, go to the library,go to articles 2004, scroll down to Ken Osbourne. Keep at it and it will all come to you. Carl

 

[jttheclockman]

I would like to throw a thought out there also. When thinking segments and tiny pieces for pens do not think that way. Think larger. By this I mean when cutting thin pieces think cutting thin strips, then glueing these onto another piece and cutting this into a strip and so on. You are always working with larger strips. Of course jigs are very important as well as a good straight gluing station. You do not need to cut such small pieces such as used in a herringbone pattern one at a time. Think strips of woods.