Repair or buy new

[Crashmph]

Hi all,

I have a South Bend 9B metal lathe. I bought off of a member her in the forum. The motor is the original GE motor from 1947. It still appears to be working just fine, but the wiring really make me nervous. I have had the lathe for a few months now, and have rarely even used it or plugged it in. I like my house to much to burn it done, and SWMBO would not like a chard section of our home.

My question is should I get the motor wiring replaced and serviced, or should I just guy a new motor all together. I would really

For a new motor I am looking at a Leeson 110086. Opinions?

 

[skiprat]

A new motor would still need to be wired in safely. So either way you may need a sparky to help you out.
The advantage of keeping the original motor means you don't need any mechanical mods either. :wink:

 

[randyrls]

Michael; Take a look at the existing motor plate. I'm assuming you have already done this. It will tell you the frame number. The Leeson is a fairly standard form NEMA frame 56. If the current motor is also a frame 56 with no suffix, the motor should be a drop in replacement. The old motor can likely be re-wound at a good motor repair place.

 

[Crashmph]

I am leaning on the motor repair rather than replace. I am ok doing the electrical wiring to get a new motor or the old motor hooked back up, but I have no clue how to check if a motor is good or not.

I guess I will have to find a repair shop to look at it.

 

[frank123]

Consider conversion to a DC motor that is reversible and a reasonably high performance variable speed motor controller (which doesn't have to be reversible since that can easily be accomplished with a simple switch arrangement, DC motors reversing by reversing the positive and negative leads).

Admittedly a bit of a moderately complicated conversion project, but one that pays off with a much more versatile and easily used lathe.

FWIW, I lend toward the Cycletrol controllers (available reasonably priced on Ebay if you look) but have done DC variable drives using modified treadmill controllers as well that worked adequately.

Also FWIW, the wiring has to be done correctly to be safe. If you're not comfortable with projects involving wiring it might be best to get some help.

 

[skiprat]

I do enjoy variable speed but it's not very often that one needs reversing on a metal lathe. In fact the only time I have used it is when return travelling when cutting metric threads. ( Imp threads just use the dial indicator )
The half-nuts stay engaged when cutting metric threads

However, I don't think it's a good idea to use a reversing motor if you have a threaded spindle. Mine has a bolted flange.

I think if I had one of those great old machines, I'd try and keep it original:biggrin:

 

[Crashmph]

My lathe is this lathe restored by another forum member JF36. You can see the lathe in this post.

If you look at the third picture in the post you will see the F and R on the switch. Almost all electric motors are reversible, it is just a matter of connecting the correct wires.

I honestly have no clue why I will need reversing, but I was just wanting the lathe to function as designed.

 

[Charlie_W]

Michael,
Check out American Electric Services in Fairfax. They can probably give you an estimate.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...wIHIAg&usg=AFQjCNGfT7NQgH6w2_78zXMOM0cylH-F1Q

 

[Crashmph]

Thanks Charlie! Called them today. Waiting on a call back from their motor specialist since it is such an old motor.

 

[plantman]

Thanks Charlie! Called them today. Waiting on a call back from their motor specialist since it is such an old motor.

Being an antique tool collector, and having looked at the photos of your lathe, I would diffinetly keep it as original as possable. When I was working in the Paper mill, I had several old Edison motors from the 20's that I serviced on a monthly bases. Old does not mean bad as long at it was properly serviced, the dust blown out now and then, and the brushes (If it has them) changed when needed. Of course these old 1/4 HP motors were the size of a 20 HP today and weighed about 65 pounds. As for the wireing. If it is original, it may be cloth woven with asbestos and should be replaced. As for checking the moter. Without taking it apart for a full visual inspection, there are several things you can do. Smell it. If you can smell varnish, it has run hot at some time or another. Not all bad. Slowley turn the shaft by hand. Just the motor, nothing hooked up to it. If you can feel any tension or clicks, you may have a bad bearing or something is rubbing inside. Set the motor on a work bench and apply power to it. If it shakes or moves around, something is out of ballance. It will vibrate some, but thats expected because of the torque. Put your hand on the motor and check for any internal vibrations. Do the old screwdriver test. Place your thumb over the end of you screwdriver or rod and put it to your ear,and place the other end over the bearing housing and listen for any internal bearing noise. This should give you some idea of the condition of your motor. If you want to go farther, there are 4 long bolts that hold the end plates on. Remove them and CAREFULY take out the rotor and inspect for any burnt spots or rubbing. Chech the stator for any overheating of the varnish or shiney wires. It is probaly going to cost you more to have your motor rebuilt than to replace it, but the ease of bolting it in and out without having to make any modifacations and keeping it as it was made, are well worth the extra cost !! They just don't make machines like that any more. Jim S