Questions...SKOGGER...JohnnyCNC bushings....Pen Wizard

[GPDMTR25]

I know this information must be out there but I can't locate it so.....

I'm searching and reading various post and I see something about a Skogger. I check the vendor section but can't find anything. I continued searching the forums tring to find information on it and I even read some reviews but I can figure out what it does. I see there's also a Skogger II.

JohnnyCNC Bushings...I've purchased items from him and love them but on some of the forums people were talking about discovering his bushing and how that was the best thing they could have done. The price is very high, I see they're steel but what makes them so great?

I know there's a separate sub forum but I'm going to throw this in here. The Pen Wizard looks great and fun but has anyone noticed if it helped their sales. I've asked customers about the different styles the PW can cut but the general answer I received was they liked it but they wouldn't buy one because they wanted a regular upscale pen. I would like to know what IAP members think.

Thanks everyone
Angela

 

[mickr]

I do not have the bushings, but I believe they are concentric and the steel lasts longer...the PW: It's a crapshoot at shows..some people love them, some don't..but I cannot sell one where the design goes on the bottom barrel(where one holds to write) it looks uncomfy...sierras do ok...cap pens...ok...the advantage is one can use less expensive wood....so you are exchanging labor for outlay

 

[tim self]

As to the skogger, I could not find an active thread either, however, bitshard makes something similar. A woodchuck that is less expensive and works as well. Has the same size cutter but longer body.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44096&highlight=woodchuck

As to Johnnycnc's bushings pricing. They are machined to a more exact (uniform) standard than the regular bushings. No variation in size from one bushing to the other. Depending on the commercial supplier there may by as much as .010-.005 variation. Ever put a bushing on the mandrel and watched it hop because the center isn't bored correctly? His won't hop. As well as NOT being mass produced 1000 at a time. Quality costs.

I have not used the PW but designs on the barrels are personal preference.

 

[leehljp]

Why expensive for JohnnyCNC: They are better, MUCH better and they are custom made by him.

I have purchased 4 sets (total of 8 bushings) of sierra bushings over the last 3 years from online stores. I have had 1 bushing with the hole drilled off center so bad that it could be easily distinguished with the unaided eye. I have had 3 bushings that were off enough that I was getting OOR pens just enough to notice that it was not perfect. When measured the holes in the bushings with calipers - sure enough Off Center drilling of the hole.

I have had other OC holes on others enough for the pen to be noticeable by persnickety people. Hey, If I am making a $10.00 pen then no matter. But if I am making a $100.00 pen, I as the seller, want it perfectly round and matching the pen fittings. The quality of the pen reflects on me as the maker. JohnnyCNC makes the kind of bushings that allow me to concentrate on the pen making and not have to worry about other aspects.

Take your chances on the commercial/consumer bushings. I still have quite a few of those and some are well within tolerance, but before Johnny's custom bushings came along, I ordered two sets every time I tried a new pen for the first time - so that I would have at least one set out of the two that would be within tolerances.

 

[drjpawlus]

The bushings from JohnnyCNC are not mass produced and each one is personally checked by John and tested for concentricity. Higher quality, you get what you pay for.

 

[aggromere]

Johnny's bushings are the best. i think I have finally stocked up on all the sizes he makes. It really helps advance my pen making.

 

[MesquiteMan]

Johnny's bushing cost more because they are hand made by an American rather than in a sweat shop in China or Tiawan with super cheap labor. The quality difference is like comparing a Yugo to a Rolls Royce. The fit and finish is absolutely no comparrison. Why do our pens cost what they do when someone could go to Walmart and buy a bic for a LOT less?

 

[GPDMTR25]

Leehljp....Thanks for the explanation

Some of the answers, like the other post I read, just say they're the best without explain why. But Now I understand. I've had to order a couple (well quite a few since I had 4 sets of bushings of most of the pens I make. The bad ones are used for sanding) of the same bushing myself because of the same problems Leehljp had. I'll have to get some of his. Thanks again
Angela


PS Tim Self...I'll look that information up.

Why expensive for JohnnyCNC: They are better, MUCH better and they are custom made by him.

I have purchased 4 sets (total of 8 bushings) of sierra bushings over the last 3 years from online stores. I have had 1 bushing with the hole drilled off center so bad that it could be easily distinguished with the unaided eye. I have had 3 bushings that were off enough that I was getting OOR pens just enough to notice that it was not perfect. When measured the holes in the bushings with calipers - sure enough Off Center drilling of the hole.

I have had other OC holes on others enough for the pen to be noticeable by persnickety people. Hey, If I am making a $10.00 pen then no matter. But if I am making a $100.00 pen, I as the seller, want it perfectly round and matching the pen fittings. The quality of the pen reflects on me as the maker. JohnnyCNC makes the kind of bushings that allow me to concentrate on the pen making and not have to worry about other aspects.

Take your chances on the commercial/consumer bushings. I still have quite a few of those and some are well within tolerance, but before Johnny's custom bushings came along, I ordered two sets every time I tried a new pen for the first time - so that I would have at least one set out of the two that would be within tolerances.

 

[GaryMadore]

I'll echo the comments on Johnny's bushings. They are perfectly machined, and they are drilled to fit quality 60 degree centers. I still use commercial bushings for cheap, mass-made kits like the Euro, but use ONLY johnnycnc's bushings for my high-end pens.

I didn't see much reason in the beginning either, but decided to give him a try because I needed some bushings for large kits (Gentleman's and Imperial) I bought here on this site. I tried his bushings out turning between centers and don't know how I managed before.

And now I understand the "pop" everyone was talking about: These bushings fit the tubes like they were purpose made for them. Well, I guess that's because they were...

Cheers!

Gary

 

[GPDMTR25]

OK just bought several items including bushings from him

I can't wait to get them after what everyone said about the bushings. I guess I'll use the other 4 pairs of bushings I already have for sanding. (I'm refering to the 4 same bushing I purchase for each pen kit because I have to find a pair I like) He's out of stock on the Cigars, slimline, and barons so I'll have to wait to get those.

Thanks

Angela

 

[holmqer]

JerrySambrook have started making those sort bushings on my 7x14 and they were a lot of work. Once I start making more for different sets, they will go much faster, because we finally settled on a more efficient machining plan, but the bottom line is you either invest in some very expensive machine tools or you take more touch time to make the kind of quality that JohnnyCNC produces from hobbiest metal lathes.

We had fun making them so the time was worth it.

Now that I've done it myself, I appreciate that his are a bargain. I will make my own for the kits I make, but will definately not be in the bushing selling business.

 

[wolftat]

, I as the seller, want it perfectly round and matching the pen fittings. .

Can't you just squeeze the fittings in a vise and get them to match up? Might make a nice oval pen with some 2 tone plating.:biggrin:

 

[toolcrazy]

The main reason to use John's bushings, is so you can turn between centers. No more bent mandrel problems, no more out of round bushings. They worth every penny.

 

[GPDMTR25]

Well I wish I had known about his bushings earlier.

Why don't the pen turning books mention stuff like this and the 60 live center and a thousand other things I learned form this site. It would have saved me a lot of money. Also I'm waiting for my Skogger to arrive in the mail.

Thanks everyone
Angela

 

[snowman56]

You will be very happy with the bushing' you get from Johnny, and the service can't be beat .

 

[Texatdurango]

Why don't the pen turning books mention stuff like this and the 60 live center and a thousand other things I learned form this site. It would have saved me a lot of money. Also I'm waiting for my Skogger to arrive in the mail.

Thanks everyone
Angela

Because they were written umpteen years ago, back in the day when a fancy slimline was the norm and no one had thought of using super glue (CA) to do a finish let alone mixing wood scraps with resin to make really spectacular pen blanks. Pen making has changed dramatically in the two short years I have been involved.

You said something that caught my eye about buying 4 sets of bushings for every kit you make and I thought... WHY? THen you mentioned using the "bad ones" for sanding which tells me you are cutting up your bushings with your tools. If you start using the 60 degree bushings and start turning "center to center" you will find that you don't have to turn down to the bushings, just close, then remove the bushings and mount the blank between centers and turn and sand to size without ever touching the bushings. One set of bushings will last for hundreds of pens.

If it would help you visualize the process, I can take some photos of "center to center" turning that might help explain what I'm talking about above.

 

[gdglatfelter]

I'd like to see the picture if you have the time ...I think I know what you mean but am new to this hobby and need some help. Sanding seems to be a problem for me as I sometimes get black from the steel on the ends of the blank during sanding and I'm not sure how to stop.

Another note that caught my eye maybe on another thread was using CA on the ends of the blanks. I haven't done this but imagine it would keep the end from chipping as mine sometimes do. How do you apply the CA and when?

Thanks for the help!
Gary

 

[Texatdurango]

I'd like to see the picture if you have the time ...I think I know what you mean but am new to this hobby and need some help. Sanding seems to be a problem for me as I sometimes get black from the steel on the ends of the blank during sanding and I'm not sure how to stop.

Another note that caught my eye maybe on another thread was using CA on the ends of the blanks. I haven't done this but imagine it would keep the end from chipping as mine sometimes do. How do you apply the CA and when?

Thanks for the help!
Gary

Gary, I put a few thoughts and photos together here... http://georges-penworks.com/centertocenter.html

After looking at my photos and seeing how I do it, you will note that I never have problems with getting bushing dust on the blanks while sanding. I also put a dab of CA on the ends of the blanks while squaring them up. I think this not only strenghtens the ends but seals against moisture problems later on during use.

 

[gdglatfelter]

WOW! Really informative. I am astonished with all the work you put into this. Can I ask a couple more questions?
1. On the step after you square the blank you do some sanding of the blank's ends. Is the picture showing a hand drill? Is there a shaft going into the chuck with a delrin sleeve around the shaft that guides the blank against the sandpaper?
2. On the final sanding step you show a different dead center from the initial step. That one had some teeth that you pointed out but the last one just appears smooth. What is this attachment called?

Thanks for being so very helpful. I will be giving this a try soon. It seems like I don't have to develop a "feel" for the nut tightness of the mandrel or worry about discoloring the wood from the sanding step.
Gary

 

[mickr]

There are so many "tricks" to this that one must learn as one goes..but read all tutorials at this site..check out books from your library..etc..it will all come together for you...also there are dvd's on penturning

 

[jyreene]

And now JohnnyCNC will get even more of my money because like Hank Lee (though I don't use calipers...yet) I have noticed the bushings seem to be the cause of some OOR. I kept messing with the lathe and the mandrel and couldn't figure out why on some bushings the mandrel would wobble and not on others. Plus I have his derlin bushings and now I don't have to worry about lifting the finish when I take the pen off....just actually getting a good finish!

 

[Texatdurango]

WOW! Really informative. I am astonished with all the work you put into this. Can I ask a couple more questions?
1. On the step after you square the blank you do some sanding of the blank's ends. Is the picture showing a hand drill? Is there a shaft going into the chuck with a delrin sleeve around the shaft that guides the blank against the sandpaper?
2. On the final sanding step you show a different dead center from the initial step. That one had some teeth that you pointed out but the last one just appears smooth. What is this attachment called?

Thanks for being so very helpful. I will be giving this a try soon. It seems like I don't have to develop a "feel" for the nut tightness of the mandrel or worry about discoloring the wood from the sanding step.
Gary

Gary, To answer #1, yes, that's a hand drill. I made a small mandrel with the same diameter shaft as the end mill. Using a punch I make a hole in some adhesive back sandpaper and slip it over the shaft of the mandrel. This way I get a nice smooth end without worrying about an end mill grabbing and tearing out a chunk of the blank.

To answer #2, When I start to round a blank I put a stebcenter in the headstock. This is a center that has "teeth" to grab a blank and keep it from spinning. I use the small 1/2" size so it doesn't interfere with turning a 3/$" blank. Here is where I got it... http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/s..._Drive_Centers___Stebcenter___stebcenter?Args=

When I finish turning the blank I remove the stebcenter and insert a 60 degree "dead" center into the headstock spindle which I bought here... http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1890&category=1

Into the tailstock I use a 60 degree "Live" center which I bought here... http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1592&category=1

Note that the difference between a dead and live center is that one rotates with the work and one doesn't. You have to have both.

Hope this helps.

 

[gdglatfelter]

Got the live/dead centers today...couldn't wait to mail order so paid a little more at a shop close by. Got the blanks close to size with a mandrel then switched. First try gave me a clean blank that looks much better but I cut too small by mistake. Just need to slow down a little. Thanks again for the advice!
Gary