product review, Ultraseal stabilizing solution

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Rifleman1776

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The product is Ultraseal, a ready to use wood stabilizing solution intended to be used with a vacuum infusion.
I had volunteered to do a review for this product. The company subsequently sent me two 16 ounce containers of their product for testing.
The solution is slightly amber colored. The accompanying MSD (material safety data) sheet describes it as a "blend of methacrylate esters".
The full name of the primary ingredient is simply too long to be of interest, or value, to most readers.
Prior to use, the product should be "degassed" by stirring then putting in the chamber and pulling a vacuum for 30 minutes.
Instructions that came with the product advised completely submerging the wood in the solution and pulling a vacuum for 20 minutes. However, they added that some systems, and woods, "may require hours or even days at vacuum".
The instructions also strongly advise that the wood must be completely covered with solution and weighted down so as not to float. Unfortunately, the glass container I use in my paint pot vacuum chamber was too large for the amount of solution provided. About 3/4" of an inch of the oversized pen blanks I was testing stood above the solution. This gave some surprising results that I will address later.
I sealed the chamber and turned on my Gast pump which pulled 23 inches of mercury. Since the blanks I was testing were oversized, I pulled the vacuum for one hour, longer than the recommended 20 minutes.
After the hour, according to instructions, I put the blanks in our oven at 205 degrees and allowed to heat for one hour. This aids the drying process and is a 'must' in using Ultraseal.
The MSD says the solution has a "mild odor". When pouring fresh, I couldn't detect any odor. But, after the heating there was a distinct, but not unpleasant smell reminiscent of lemon oil furniture polish. I don't know if this was the solution I was smelling, the wood or a reaction with the wood. At first the odor didn't bother me. But it did linger in the kitchen until morning and, by that time, was not welcome. Fortunately, it later faded.
Our oven is electric. And that is an important factor. The MSD warns "heat can cause violent, or explosive, polymerization". Personally, I would not put freshly stabilized, wet blanks into a gas oven.
After heating for one hour, I removed the blanks and returned them to my shop where they cooled and (hopefully) would dry overnight.
In the morning, they were still wet to the touch. We have had much rain lately and humidity is high. At the moment, I am not optimistic they will dry completely anytime soon.
I had hoped to turn a blank to round and sand in an attempt to understand how successful the stable process actually was. That report will have to wait until later.
The blanks did darken with the stable process. This is something to keep in mind if you intend to stable some light woods, such as aspen, and hope to keep them light colored.
The eleven oversized blanks I stabilized consumed about eight ounces of solution, so we know the wood did absorb some.
I sliced open one blank and found surprising results. Most of the blank, the portion submerged in solution, had a light colored interior. The end that was above the solution is dark all the way through.
I can only speculate that the exposed wood absorbed solution via some kind of capillary action and/or from the solution foaming under vacuum. Mine isn't a 'pickle jar' arrangement so I couldn't observe what was happening.
As I see it, the downsides to using this product are that before use, it must be 'degassed' for 30 minutes; after the vacuum, the blanks must be 'cooked' for up to an hour to facilitate drying; and, even after that, there is a waiting period of up to three days before the blanks can be used.
The big advantage with a product like this is that it is ready to use. Unlike the home brew Plexiglas dissolved in acetone solution, you do not have to scrounge around trying to find a supply of scrap Plexiglas.
Product prices were not provided.
I will follow up in about two weeks with an actual turning test report to finalize this review.
 

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Rifleman1776

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It would be interesting to see a side by side photo with the blank you sliced and one cut the same way that had not been in the Ultra Seal.

OK, mebbe later today.
BTW, the sliced one where the interior was light has darkened. I asked the company if the product was photosensitive but they did not respond.
And, the blanks are still tacky to the touch this a.m.
 

Rifleman1776

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It would be interesting to see a side by side photo with the blank you sliced and one cut the same way that had not been in the Ultra Seal.

Here ya go, Cav.
The dark, top one, of course, is the stabilized hunk. It is still tacky nearly 48 hours after being stabilized and heated. It is tacky inside and out.
Quick photo shows darkening compared to a similar piece not stabled.
The darkening seems to get deeper and deeper with time. I haven't been in the shop much so the lights are out, I believe the color change is a reaction with air.
 

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I am testing the Ultraseal as well and have a couple questions for you. First of all what species of wood did you stabilize? Oily woods seem to have a tendency to not cure properly. Second question: Did you use an oven thermometer to be certain you reached the necessary cure temperature of at least 194 degrees farenheit? I learned that you shouldn't trust the dial setting on a household oven to be incredibly accurate.

Ultraseal is a heat cured product. If it was still wet when you removed it from the oven it isn't going to cure at room temperature.

I would suggest that you heat it again at a higher temp. I wrap mine tightly in aluminum foil to contain the chemical and reduce the odors. In my experience you won't hurt anything by increasing the oven temp to about 225 for an hour or so.
 

Rifleman1776

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I am testing the Ultraseal as well and have a couple questions for you. First of all what species of wood did you stabilize? Oily woods seem to have a tendency to not cure properly. Second question: Did you use an oven thermometer to be certain you reached the necessary cure temperature of at least 194 degrees farenheit? I learned that you shouldn't trust the dial setting on a household oven to be incredibly accurate.

Ultraseal is a heat cured product. If it was still wet when you removed it from the oven it isn't going to cure at room temperature.

I would suggest that you heat it again at a higher temp. I wrap mine tightly in aluminum foil to contain the chemical and reduce the odors. In my experience you won't hurt anything by increasing the oven temp to about 225 for an hour or so.

Redbud is not an oily wood.
Note the extreme discoloration. And the stabled piece continues to darken.
I heated at 205 degrees for more than an hour, twice as long and hotter than the manufacturer recommended. We do use an over thermometer, ours is accurate. And, I believe that 225 degree would cause many woods to crack, ruining the blanks.
It is still tacky more than two days after the fact.
If what you say is correct about it being (only) a heat cured product that wasn't made entirely clear in the instructions and would be a factor for potential customers to take into consideration. It seems that a toaster oven will become another standard item in the woodworking shop.
 

RBoutin

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Looking at your picture and based on the comment that the color seems to continue to darken, there is clearly an incompatibility with the wood. Assuming the thermometer is accurate, which you say it is, it was definitely cooked long enough to cure properly. I ran into a similar issue stabilizing an East Indian Rosewood blank in our lab. It never cured properly and the stabilizer seemed to just thicken to a slimy goo. This was the reason for my original question about if yours was an oily wood. Oily or not though, there is something about it that prevents the stabilizer from curing. Ultraseal Wood Stabiliser isn't photosensitive, the continued darkening is a chemical reaction which unfortunately I can't explain the source of. Redbud may just simply be a wood that can't be stabilized with Ultraseal.
 

Rifleman1776

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Looking at your picture and based on the comment that the color seems to continue to darken, there is clearly an incompatibility with the wood. Assuming the thermometer is accurate, which you say it is, it was definitely cooked long enough to cure properly. I ran into a similar issue stabilizing an East Indian Rosewood blank in our lab. It never cured properly and the stabilizer seemed to just thicken to a slimy goo. This was the reason for my original question about if yours was an oily wood. Oily or not though, there is something about it that prevents the stabilizer from curing. Ultraseal Wood Stabiliser isn't photosensitive, the continued darkening is a chemical reaction which unfortunately I can't explain the source of. Redbud may just simply be a wood that can't be stabilized with Ultraseal.

It is my opinion that the product reacts with air rather than being photosensitive. The piece I cut open that was still light colored inside darkened in a very dim shop that was dark at night. This morning, as I touch the wood my fingers still get tacky.
The extreme darkening is a concern that I am sure most turners would find disconcerting.
I can't answer the question about Redbud being that unusual a wood.
While my experience may not be what you would hope with your new product, I am simply reporting what happened.
I am going out of town for a week. When I return, I'll redo the test with a different kind of wood.
 

RBoutin

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The stabilizer doesn't react with air. However, I did read a reference on another forum about Redbud having a propensity to darken through oxidization, so it may be that the stabilizer is facilitating this oxidizing on your pieces. It could also be that whatever causes the natural oxidation of Redbud is preventing the stabilizer from curing.

One of the reasons we sent the samples out for free was in part to see what kind of issues arose and this seems to be one. Do you have enough product to try a different wood when you return? I'd hesitate to run more pieces through the stabilizer you have in case something from the Redbud leached out.
 
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I have been stabilizing woods professionally for over a year now using Resinol 90C. I have stabilized and cured thousands of knife blocks, scales and pen blanks. I regularly cure my blocks at 225 degrees for at least 90 minutes and have not had one crack yet.

My advice was based on a great deal of personal experience plus the philosophy of "what have you got to lose"?

No offense was intended....... I hope none was taken.

Please keep us posted as to the results of your test. I'll be posting mine soon.
 

Rifleman1776

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Note: Ten days after the fact, the test piece is still tacky to the touch.
I intend to re-cook at higher temps for a longer period of time to see what happens.
I will also stable another test piece. It will be maple. The manufacturer believes that there might be a reaction from the Redbud wood that causes the problems. Maple is light colored and normally takes stable very well with other solutions. We will see.
If the manufacturer sends some fresh product, I will repeat the test with that also. Doing it twice, once with used solution and once with fresh should/could be informative.
 

RBoutin

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I will be sending out an Ultraseal Wood Stabiliser Version 2 to those that experienced some issues with proper curing. They'll go out Tuesday and will be just shy of a quart. You should see a noticeable improvement in cure time and cure hardness.

Thanks again to all for the feedback, it has been extremely valuable learning where some of the issues are arising. I won't say yet that Version 2 is a cure-all but it will be a definite improvement. If we need to make another adjustment, we will.

Please keep the feedback and reviews coming!

Thanks,

Bob
 
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