Pricing acrylics vs. woods

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Imported poll question missed, please edit

  • Price based on formula, using actual cost of materials used

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • up to- $5 more for acrylic

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • $5 - $10 more for acrylic

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • up to $5 more for wood

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • $5 - $10 more for wood

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • price based on formula, using actual time required per individual pen

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
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My pricing (just starting to sell) is based on the overall quality of the pen not just the material. A straight slimline in acrylic is worth less than a spindle turned pen in a nice wood. A pen using acrylics well for accents on less figured wood is worth less than a figured wood with nothing special done to the shape.

The whole thing with me is the result. Pens that look well balanced and/or unique are going to be higher priced. Pens that are done well but lack "zing" are worth less no matter what the material.
 
I am pretty much with Bill on this. If I have used Bethleheh Olive, Snakewood or another more expensive blank it will cost more than an acrylic . However if I turn a really sharp acrylic, it will sell for more than a plain oak pen. Just depends on the pen.
 
Well lately I don't sell pens[:(] but I hope that is temporary.

But back when I did sell pens, I use a combo of material cost and time to determine price.

I have had to make an exception to that formula though. I recently made a PVC pen. If I use my formula it would price out the same as a wood pen with a comparable material cost. However, when I look at a blue pvc pen I see a nice "plastic" pen. To me it just looks more in the novelty range than fine writing instrument range.

I do not put acrylic into the same catagory as pvc though. Much of the available acrylic can make some very classy pens indeed and would easily command the same price as a comparable wood pen.
 
I don't really draw a distinction between wood and acrylic (although I agree with Dale about the PVC). I charge based on the cost of materials. My feeling is that the specific material will determine which pen someone will buy, and the workmanship and general feel of the pen will go a long way to determining the price.

In general, the type of material does not seem to affect how much someone will pay, but rather whether someone will buy it at all. It's a threshold kind of thing.
 
I am with Bill on this one. Final outcome plays a major role. I will not sell a pen for less than $20.00 retail. That is my base price. If a pen turns out bad for some reason, it gets turned down to brass tubes. If a pen gets higher end materials, I add for that, unless I am not impressed with outcome.
 
How do you deal with glue ups for blanks as in the checkerboard spiral on the home page?
I made one of those with a classic American likt whe I first started.
Shouldn;t the time spent laminating be considered in the pricing of a pen?
How about working with difficult woods?
 
I use the formula of time, materials, depreciation and came up with too high a price to be competive. So, I figured since I was employed, lower my labor rate and this is what the Market will bear:

$20.00 for a wood slimline. $25.00 in Corian
$40.00 European or American Flattop in Accrylic.
$45.00 - $50.00 Cigar Pen Accrylic or Corian

Like a Salesman told me, if it takes too long to make and you have to charge so much they don't sell, Then Do Not Make Them![;)]
 
WHy the difference in Corian?
Gluing up 1/2 blanks?
I have found the finishing of Corian is nonexistant.Same thing with most"plastic" materials.
run it through the MM and you are done.
 
I agree with the others who vary their prices according to the final results. More costly woods often produce a more attractive final product. I will set a base according to material cost but use subjective judgement to determine what I intend to sell for. An artist does not price according to cost of paint. I am a writer and I do not price according to cost of paper and ink. As for wood vs. acrylic, my philosophy is: if you want plastic, go to Wal-Mart. Sorry folks, that's my personal feeling on the subject. I also make duck and game calls and don't do acrylic there even though I know some acrylics sell for big money. I like the naturalness of wood.
 
A lot of the most expensive pens available are made using some sort of acrylic. We have some incrediable acrylics to choose from and I enjoy turning them. It's a nice break from wood sometimes, and I don't have a problem getting my price so I'll keep making them. There are a lot of Lady's that do not care for wood, without acrylics I would be loosing a customer and money.

Wayne
 
I haven't voted on this yet because I feel that the first and last choises should be combined to make another choise .
There's a lot of times that you can be working with a blank that is more expensive than another but you're still able to turn that pen in a reasonable period of time , On the other hand a less expensive blank might take twice as long to make a presentable looking and feeling pen and therefore both the cost AND time have to be factored in .
How does everyone else feel about this ?
 
I have not voted.
I price my pens based on how they turm out.
Just because a pen is built out of expensive material doen't make it a expensive pen in my opinion.
What if the only thing a person built was slimlines and on their own blanks. Not all of their pens would have to be the same price.
I just made 12 BOW pens---there are 7 different price tags on the pens.
 
I price mine all about the same. However when I get that exceptional piece of wood, that I say WOW, that is really nice. The price goes UP.But I am ussually on the high end of the price scale anyways. Anthony
 
I use the cost plus time formula. Usually this results in an Aquapearl costing about $5 more than the cheapest woods but still less than pink ivory or snakewood, or store bought stabilized burls for instance. Still, in agreement with several others here, when and if I end up with an exceptional pen, the price will go up a little.
 
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