Poly Resin Question

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wizkid1st

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Apr 11, 2013
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I have tried pouring my own blanks with Castin' Craft Poly Resin from Hobby Lobby and was able to work with the stuff with good results except when I go to turn the blank... It turns like cutting glass... I have successfully made a few pens but I really don't like the way it turns. (leaves absolutely no room for error) My question is... Is Alumilite the same type of hardness? Is it easier to work with and if so... Which one? I was looking at their website and there are so many different flavors of clear.

Thanks in advance for any advise.

Bill
 
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Tim'sTurnings

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I have no experience with Alumilite but I have done quite a few PR blanks. The brittleness may come from adding too much MEKP hardener. I usually use 3-4 drops per ounce and it works good for me. How many drops did you use?
Tim.
 
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PenMan1

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Alumilite does turn much easier, but requires more attention to mixing, and in my case at least, a pressure casting setup is absolutely essential.

Your problem with PR sounds like either way too much catalyst or dull tools. PR really likes sharp carbide tooling. As for the catalyst, in your area of Tennessee and the recent high levels of humidity, I would start with three drops of MEKP and work in 70 degree temperature. This means starting with resin and MEKP at 70 degrees.

Good luck.
 

frank123

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In my experience, Alumilite is much tougher, not as hard, and easier to machine. It sets up quite a bit faster so it is not a forgiving during the mix and pour.
 
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Jim Burr

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PR for several years...5-7 drops as well. There is an art, if you will to turning PR blanks, whether it be 2 or 20 drops. JMHO, but round blanks are better or knock the corners off the square ones. Plan on light (thin) cuts. I usually...just what I do, peel off no more than 1/16" at a shot...thinner as you get to finish diameter. Slow cuts too...you can tell when you lose the bevel. Don't be afraid to use the 80 grit gouge if need be.
 

BSea

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Alumilite is easier to turn than PR. But it also doesn't polish as easily. And if I remember correctly, according to Mesquite Man, Alumilite is actually harder than PR, but has more flex to it. Flex is probably the wrong term, but it is much more forgiving. You can chip alumilite, but you almost have to try. Usually it come off in nice ribbons.

I agree with Penman 1, a pressure pot is essential for alumilite.
 

JohnU

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Jan 31, 2008
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Ottawa, Illinois
I agree with Penman1 also. I use both Silmar 41 polyresin and Alumilite. Both work well with turning but have their own pros and cons. For clear casting objects on the tube like snakeskins, feathers, labels and things you want to use polyresin. Alumilite doesn't adhere well in that application. If your casting worthless wood or pinecones, acorns, and similar, I would suggest Alumilite, which adheres very well to this type of casting, plus Alumilite does not shrink when curing like Polyresin does. Both work well with color casting but I think you can keep better color separation with Alumilite because it cures so fast.

With Alumilite you have about seven to eight minutes to mix, stir, pour and pressurize in the tank so you need to have a plan and stick to it, not to mention having a stop watch helps. Cure time is about 1.5 to 2 hours so its out of the tank much quicker. Another draw back is you cant make multiple pours with it. It wont stick to itself very well the second time. The polish and shine issue can be fixed with a CA finish. Its more durable, especially when you drop a pen on a hard surface.

With polyresin you have twenty to thirty minutes, sometime less in warmer climate, to work and chamber it. Polyresin smells and shrinks as it cures, and you will want to wait 12 to 20 hours for proper curing before removing from the pressure tank. Its also good for multiple pours so you can recast a blank later if you need to, and it polishes up very well. Ive dropped a few pens and cracked them on a hard tile floor.

Im sure Ive over looked some info but this was what I experience with them. There are many who know more than me. When it comes down to what type of Alumilite you want, I would ask someone like Curtis "MesquiteMan" or those who have a lot of experience with it. Good luck!
 
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Joined
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Alumilite is easier to turn than PR. But it also doesn't polish as easily. And if I remember correctly, according to Mesquite Man, Alumilite is actually harder than PR, but has more flex to it. Flex is probably the wrong term, but it is much more forgiving. You can chip alumilite, but you almost have to try. Usually it come off in nice ribbons.

I agree with Penman 1, a pressure pot is essential for alumilite.

I think a pressure pot is essential for any casting you want repeatable.
With that said, look at the durometer of the resin you want to cast an compare it to the durometer you are comparing it to. Alumilite (if I recall correctly has two different resins) a 75 Shore D and an 80 Shore D. Make sure they are using the same scale (Shore D) and compare, higher is more brittle in this case (hrder). Both the Alumilites will shine brightly and will work fine for casting and will polish like glass. They would be the Clear and Water Clear I am referring to here.
 
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