jeweler53
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I am intrigued by this idea. I have a background that includes investment casting of precious metals bu I have not done much with low temp stuff. Anybody with any suggestions?
pewter casting
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It is low temp around 450-475'F so you have a wide choice of materials that can be used for molds from shaped crushed aluminum foil to one of a kind dirt sand molds in the back yard. All the new material in the US is lead free by law. That is if you buy it from a known source.
Some of the stuff sold in classifieds CL/fleabay and other places has been know to be contaminated with lead shot and wheel weights etc.
There is a learning curve in soldering it as the sold temp is slightly below its melting temp.
It turns easy, it spins easy, it can be carved formed, cast etc. It can be left to get the great dull gray patina. Or you can polish it up to a high shine that is a silver look alike.
Cross contamination of tools and work surfaces
No for the downside. Separate tools and work surface.Yes IT IS AN ABSOLUTE MUST! Since the melting point is so low. It will alloy with any other metals that you put a torch too. It will run any silver soldering, The filings either from saw or file or other will get every where. Most people that work pewter and other metals have two sets of tools and even two separate benches/work areas.
Pewter Plus is one book I have reviewed in the bookshelf.
Pewter Studio is another one
Cast Pewter Jewelry by Jay D Kain Davis Publications inc. copyright©1975 ISBN#0-8792-027-9
Another of those interesting, and opening a lot of possibilities books.
With pewter and other metals used for jewelry. When I first picked up this book pewter was a ho hum metal for me. But after using this book,pewter has become a more interesting metal for the possibilities and uses in metal arts.
It starts with
I found it to be well worth the hunt to find a copy.
I have just received a much better book on working pewter, but have yet the time to read it.
Was a library staple in the 70's and 80's.
Pewter, Designs and Techniques by Fluer Grenier, WWW.crowood.com ISBN 9781847971586
If you have any dust on silver or gold it will eat a hole in the metal when heated and continue to enlarge while it is heated.
She does explain this in her book,
A minimum is separate files, saw blades, steel brushes along with polishing mops wheels, sand or emery papers. Soldering materials and tools also should be separate. If using stakes,hammers etc with pewter and others it should be wiped down with a fine steel type wool. And a good vacuum with a very small opening filter is best.
Part of the confusion comes from the old wives tale that pewter will corrode any other metal it comes into contract with. This is untrue since the material it is made from is stable. Even when lead was used in the alloy it is stable.
There is oxidation/patina and some times it progresses to the point of white powder forming on the item.
Save your self a lot of grief, Start out with a separate work surface even if it portable.
You can buy it in casting shot,sheet,ingots. This is what the current lead solders and gaming miniatures are made from Hope this helps.
:clown:
Some of the stuff sold in classifieds CL/fleabay and other places has been know to be contaminated with lead shot and wheel weights etc.
There is a learning curve in soldering it as the sold temp is slightly below its melting temp.
It turns easy, it spins easy, it can be carved formed, cast etc. It can be left to get the great dull gray patina. Or you can polish it up to a high shine that is a silver look alike.
Cross contamination of tools and work surfaces
No for the downside. Separate tools and work surface.Yes IT IS AN ABSOLUTE MUST! Since the melting point is so low. It will alloy with any other metals that you put a torch too. It will run any silver soldering, The filings either from saw or file or other will get every where. Most people that work pewter and other metals have two sets of tools and even two separate benches/work areas.
Pewter Plus is one book I have reviewed in the bookshelf.
Pewter Studio is another one
Cast Pewter Jewelry by Jay D Kain Davis Publications inc. copyright©1975 ISBN#0-8792-027-9
Another of those interesting, and opening a lot of possibilities books.
With pewter and other metals used for jewelry. When I first picked up this book pewter was a ho hum metal for me. But after using this book,pewter has become a more interesting metal for the possibilities and uses in metal arts.
It starts with
- Pewter a discussion
- Rigid molds, sculptstone,maple, rock,sandcore,wood, charcoal,cuttlefish bone, salt block,lost wax in plaster,3 piece mold, lost wax
- Flexible molds and casting variations,vaporization or full molds (foam),sand mold (loose) aluminum foil molds,water pour Random pour
- Finishing procedures filing &surface treatments,oxidizing, polishing and soldering
- Appendix
I found it to be well worth the hunt to find a copy.
I have just received a much better book on working pewter, but have yet the time to read it.
Was a library staple in the 70's and 80's.
Pewter, Designs and Techniques by Fluer Grenier, WWW.crowood.com ISBN 9781847971586
If you have any dust on silver or gold it will eat a hole in the metal when heated and continue to enlarge while it is heated.
She does explain this in her book,
A minimum is separate files, saw blades, steel brushes along with polishing mops wheels, sand or emery papers. Soldering materials and tools also should be separate. If using stakes,hammers etc with pewter and others it should be wiped down with a fine steel type wool. And a good vacuum with a very small opening filter is best.
Part of the confusion comes from the old wives tale that pewter will corrode any other metal it comes into contract with. This is untrue since the material it is made from is stable. Even when lead was used in the alloy it is stable.
There is oxidation/patina and some times it progresses to the point of white powder forming on the item.
Save your self a lot of grief, Start out with a separate work surface even if it portable.
You can buy it in casting shot,sheet,ingots. This is what the current lead solders and gaming miniatures are made from Hope this helps.
:clown: