Patrude
Member
Sorry if I am in the wrong location here, anyone have suggestion for the best mandrel; is the mandrel saver made in Connecticuit getting any reviews. thanks, :redface:
pen mandrel
- Thread starter Patrude
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Monty
Group Buy Coordinator
The best mandrel, IMO, is none. Just turn between centers.
jd99
Member
+1 on turning between centers, save what you would spend on a madrel, and buy TBC (Turn Between Center) bushings, and kits.
stonyloam
Member
Being as I am very new to pen turning, I got the PSI mandrel saver package and it has worked very well for me so far, like it very much. Turning between centers may very well be superior, but for a beginner I think the mandrel is just fine. Not that I know what I am talking about.:wink:
edstreet
Member
Live center / Dead center. Little machine shop has both, good price to. you will need a mandrel for some kits but not all.
ldubia
Member
Where does one find TBC bushings?
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nava1uni
Member
He makes nice bushings. Good products, good price.
reiddog1
Member
I use the adjustable mandrel from woodturningz and the mandrel saver. Works pretty well for me. Hope this helps.
Dave
Dave
I'm relatively new to pen making and bought several (3) different mandrels at first in the quest for the perfect mandrel.
I finally bought a dead center for the headstock (had a live center that came with the lathe for the tailstock) and tried TBC.
I concluded that the perfect mandrel isn't a mandrel at all but centers. It's really easy to do turning between centers and the learning curve for using centers is about one pen.
A dead center on Ebay is only a few bucks and a live center if you don't have one costs less than most mandrels. If you have a machine supply house in your area you can pick the up locally and save that shipping and handling stuff.
(a cheap dial caliper helps in making sure what size you're at while turning, but you can work around it and do without if you want)
I finally bought a dead center for the headstock (had a live center that came with the lathe for the tailstock) and tried TBC.
I concluded that the perfect mandrel isn't a mandrel at all but centers. It's really easy to do turning between centers and the learning curve for using centers is about one pen.
A dead center on Ebay is only a few bucks and a live center if you don't have one costs less than most mandrels. If you have a machine supply house in your area you can pick the up locally and save that shipping and handling stuff.
(a cheap dial caliper helps in making sure what size you're at while turning, but you can work around it and do without if you want)
leehljp
Member Liaison
I recommend Johnny's TBC bushings because they are turned to precision.
However, ordinary bushings for mandrels will work ok with TBC. The only problem with ordinary mandrel bushings, in my experience, is that about 1 in 3 has a little runout/off center holes and 1 in 7 - 10 will have enough off center drilling to be noticeable to a good eye. For most pen bushings, after my first year of pen making, I ALWAYS bought 2 sets at a time to make sure I had one good set. Keep a good set of calipers around and check the bushings! Another problem down the road, and especially after having a set of John's is that the commercial bushings are so loose and sloppy in the tubes. Most people will not notice this until they try a set of John's bushings. Some commercial bushings have enough slop in the tube to cause some runout problems. Bushings should fit snug with no slop in the tubes. John's does, most commercial ones don't.
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SecretGman
Member
This mandrel from AS is rock solid IMHO, been very happy with it.
Adjustable Pen Mandrel-2MT-A [AdjMan2MTA] - $27.75 : Arizona Silhouette inc. - Suppliers of Eye Candy, Proudly Offering Exceptional Products and Resources for the Wood Turner
Adjustable Pen Mandrel-2MT-A [AdjMan2MTA] - $27.75 : Arizona Silhouette inc. - Suppliers of Eye Candy, Proudly Offering Exceptional Products and Resources for the Wood Turner
LagniappeRob
Member
What about the "converters" from PEnturner's products? .540 X 7mm bushing, PAIR [7mm adapter, .540] - $15.00 : Penturners Products!
The Scot in me would have a hard time throwing away the multitude of bushings I've already accumulated.
The other one I was thinking about moving to was "The Better Mandrel" someone on here once talked about - The Better Mandrel Saver
I like the idea of moving away from the MT2 taper to threads.
EDIT - oh, and why the 2 sizes of the converters (0.515 & 0.540) does it depend on your centers?
The Scot in me would have a hard time throwing away the multitude of bushings I've already accumulated.
The other one I was thinking about moving to was "The Better Mandrel" someone on here once talked about - The Better Mandrel Saver
I like the idea of moving away from the MT2 taper to threads.
EDIT - oh, and why the 2 sizes of the converters (0.515 & 0.540) does it depend on your centers?
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Monty
Group Buy Coordinator
Navygirl
Member
I need help, I am currently using a Mandrel A and I am enjoying making the pens that are made on this mandrel, I purchased a Mandrel B and a couple of pen kits for that particular type of mandrel but I have been unable to figure out how to get the mandrel b on the lathe :-(
My lathe is a W1704 SHOP FOX LATHE CT–LATHE–1
The mandrel "A" is a #1 Morse Taper
and the Mandrel "B" is an adjustable MT2..
Is the mandrel incompatible with the lathe that I have?
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
My lathe is a W1704 SHOP FOX LATHE CT–LATHE–1
The mandrel "A" is a #1 Morse Taper
and the Mandrel "B" is an adjustable MT2..
Is the mandrel incompatible with the lathe that I have?
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
The mandrel male taper has to match the female taper cut in your lathe spindle and tail stock quill. (Morse Taper, MT1, 2, 3 etc.)
They're not interchangeable as they are based on different diameters (an MT2 is too large to fit in an MT1 and an MT1 is too small to fit in an MT2). If they don't fit it should be obvious the same way the wrong size bolt won't fit in a different diameter bolt hole (threads being ignored for illustration purposes).
Tapers work by sort of wedging themselves into a very exact and precise fit into a hole of exactly the same dimensions. They can be extremely accurate and repeatable if they are properly made.
I think this is what you are talking about.
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raar25
Member
Ok I know I will catch flack for this but I think the mandrel gets a bad rapp. I have been using a mandrel for about 200 pens now and it works fine (no complaints from any customers) . Any time my nibs and flanges don't line up correctly it is because I oversanded. I will say that I went through a few mandrels before I decided to make my own. I ordered .250 x 36" drill rod cut it in two and ground .003 off of the O.D. My bushings and mandrel saver fit tight and using a mandrel save keeps me from bending the rod. Best of all I can fit two pens on the lathe at one time and improve my output. This really makes a difference when putting CA on the pen so I have less wait time. I get no more then .002 TIR on the bushing OD (until I hit it with a tool once or twice). So after sanding a few dozen pens and hundreds of taps with a turning tool the TBC bushings are pretty expensive to throw out.
So for this pen maker its thumbs up to using a mandrel with a mandrel saver.
Yes if I ever start making $1000 pens I will TBC and do pen halves one at a time, but for now the mandrel is the ticket.
That being said I agree with the comment make sure you check the dimensions of your bushings before hand, this I learned the hard way.
So its time for all you closet mandrel users to step up and say let the mandrel live! Sorry I couldn't resist.
So for this pen maker its thumbs up to using a mandrel with a mandrel saver.
Yes if I ever start making $1000 pens I will TBC and do pen halves one at a time, but for now the mandrel is the ticket.
That being said I agree with the comment make sure you check the dimensions of your bushings before hand, this I learned the hard way.
So its time for all you closet mandrel users to step up and say let the mandrel live! Sorry I couldn't resist.
its_virgil
Member
I make my own by purchasing letter D size drill rod, cut it to the length I need and thread the end for the brass nut. If you use the mandrel saver from PSI or elsewhere then the threads are not needed. I also hold the mandrel with my collet chuck so no threads are needed on the head stock end. A center drill can be used to put the 60 degree dimple in the end if a live center is used. Several mandrels from a piece of drill rod (usually comes in 36 or 48 inch lengths) for the price of just one mandrel.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Do a good turn daily!
Don
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