Pen cracking at the end's

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Pen Man

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I have been turning for two years and all I make are pens.
I just noteiced that @ the end of the pens where the fittings go in there are a crack in some. I use barrow faceing tools on all, and A deburing tool. Should I be barrow faceing it into the tub a little more ?[V]
 
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jwoodwright

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Without a photo to see the problem, usually the split is due to the nib being slightly crooked as you press it into the tube. Another is too thick plating on parts. Wood moves and too thin wood that was stressed can split.

Simple solution is use a countersink to slightly chamfer the edge of the tubes. Then ensure parts are pressed straight together[:)]

Great looking pens in your album! Very Impressive.[8D]
 

Fred in NC

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It happened to me a couple times for the same reason John describes above. Heat from drilling and sanding can crack some woods too. Heat from curing glue is bad too!

I made a tool to clean the ends of the tube, and no more problems! The tool is a size "D" drill bit with a handle. The drill bit is .246" which fits right into the tube. It cleans any glue inside the ends of the tube.
 
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Originally posted by Fred in NC
<br />It happened to me a couple times for the same reason John describes above. Heat from drilling and sanding can crack some woods too. Heat from curing glue is bad too!

I made a tool to clean the ends of the tube, and no more problems! The tool is a size "D" drill bit with a handle. The drill bit is .246" which fits right into the tube. It cleans any glue inside the ends of the tube.

Fred-
What are you doing for pens other than slim lines?
I am getting fed up with my mills.
There HAS to be something better!
 

Fred in NC

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Eagle, most of my problems have been with slimlines. It is easier to get into larger tubes to clean them.

Drill bits are available in a lot of sizes if you order them from a drill bit house. All you need to do is measure the inside of the tube.

Using the drill bit is easier with a wood handle, like a turning tool. I found 3/4" to 1" diameter handles make it easier to use the drill bit. Drill a hole with the same drill bit, and epoxy it in.
 
G

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Using the CA glue for the tubes and an insertion tool I made from That high density plastic stuff,I rarely get glue in the tube.
I was referring to milling the ends.
I have been trying the reverse pen mill with sandpaper as you suggested,paper wears out quickor loads up.
Since the important part is getting the end of the blank 90º to the tube the shaft is the key.
The problem I am experiencing is the mill is peening over the end of the tube.Normally it requires disamtling the mill and pushing it through,then reaming out the "peened tube"
I invested in a PSI set so I didn't have to have a diffeent mill for styles I don't use a lot of.
 

dougle40

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Since I don't have anything other than a regular 7mm facing tool , I use a small fine rat tail file to clean out the insides of tubes larger than 7mm . It works great as long as you don't exert too much pressure , I've never had to revert to CA gluing anything together .
 

woodpens

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Originally posted by Pen Man
<br />I have been turning for two years and all I make are pens.
I just noteiced that @ the end of the pens where the fittings go in there are a crack in some. I use barrow faceing tools on all, and A deburing tool. Should I be barrow faceing it into the tub a little more ?[V]
If you are inserting the nibs straight, without getting them cocked at all, your problem is lack of clearance. The ID of the tube is designed to be a very snug fit around the nib so that you have a good tight fit without glue. Anything that reduces the ID of the tube is a problem. If you have no glue or trimmed brass causing this, it could be an issue of the plating on your nib.

Some woods such as Ebony and Snakewood are very susceptible to cracking when they are turned thin enough for a pen, especially a slimline. Ivory is also very susceptible to cracking when you insert the nib into the tube. To solve this problem, I take a round file (rat tail) and intentionally remove enough brass from the tube's ID such that the nib will slide in without the use of a press. Then, I put a drop of medium viscosity CA glue inside the tube and slide the nib into place. This has worked great for me.
 

wayneis

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Eagle if you either buy or make a jig to square the tubes on a disk sander I think that you would find it much easier and quicker to accomplish. The jig that PSI sells would be pretty easy to make yourself.

Wayne
 
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Wayne-
I contemplated that jig and I saw too many downsides.
First of all my belt diac sander vibrates too much to be accurate.
The second is the amount of variables.
The miter gauge needs to be a dead 90º to the sanding disc in both directions.
I still think there woud be too much torqu applied to the end of the blank with the sanding disc spinning and no support under the end where contact is being made.
Then there is the fact that I turn more than just slimlines so a different shaft to support the blank would be neccesary.
For thaose that have them and get good results I envy them, but I think my Ryobi sander vibrates too much and I cannot justfy the expense of another sander for a jig whose design looks as if it was designed in Disney land.(Too Mickey Mouse)
 

goldentouch

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If you reload rifle or pistol ammo they make a small tool that can ream out the end of the brass tube and I also use it on the outside of the tube. Doing so everything works fine and I haven't had a problem yet. Any store that sell reloading supplies should carry it.
 

knottyharry

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I have had a few problems with Corian, but not with wood.
I know some people are using the brass rifle cleaning brushes to clean the inside of the tubes also.
I haven't tried it because this hasn't been a real problem.
But I have recently started reaming the ends of the tubes just a touch. I think it helps.
Harry
 

jwoodwright

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Really doesn't matter the material, get it thin enough and then press it at anything less than straight and you have cracking. Using a countersink to slightly chamfer the barrels works wonders...[8D]
 
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