corgicoupe
Member
Has anyone successfully turned a wood pen without using the brass tubes? The components would have to be glued in to avoid splitting the wood, and the turning might also be tricky.
Very first pen I made didn't have a brass tube ,Has anyone successfully turned a wood pen without using the brass tubes? The components would have to be glued in to avoid splitting the wood, and the turning might also be tricky.
The problem there is wood movement. Maybe if you stabilize the wood with a whole bunch of plastics but my question would be why.??? We have enough problems when we use tubes and now you want to avoid them and glue the parts in. Too much stress on the wood. This is done with metal pen blanks though.
Do those making kit less pens use tubes? I saw this as a move toward kitless, particularly if one makes it closed end.
I was going to say something and maybe will later, but for now; we all need to get out more:
http:
//www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/317611-all-wood-fountain-pens/
Bill
I've done a Zen kit without tubes. Just glued the ends to the wood. I was concerned drilling the drum stick I used to the brass OD so I drilled to the tube ID.
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I really like the solutions of John Albert and pierre, but will probably have to opt for that of More4dan, since the former would require purchase of a metal lathe with threading capabilities. One other idea I've been contemplating is using an Esterbrook section friction fitted in a wood barrel, making it an eyedropper.
I really like the solutions of John Albert and pierre, but will probably have to opt for that of More4dan, since the former would require purchase of a metal lathe with threading capabilities. One other idea I've been contemplating is using an Esterbrook section friction fitted in a wood barrel, making it an eyedropper.
Taps and dies would allow you to thread on a wood lathe using guides in the tailstock. It's about all I do now for threads with my metal lathe. The only exception is I do thread with the lathe to make taps for nonstandard threads, like Nib feeds and commercial front sections that are 8.5mm and 9.5mm in various pitches.
Danny
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Taps and dies would allow you to thread on a wood lathe using guides in the tailstock. It's about all I do now for threads with my metal lathe. The only exception is I do thread with the lathe to make taps for nonstandard threads, like Nib feeds and commercial front sections that are 8.5mm and 9.5mm in various pitches.I really like the solutions of John Albert and pierre, but will probably have to opt for that of More4dan, since the former would require purchase of a metal lathe with threading capabilities. One other idea I've been contemplating is using an Esterbrook section friction fitted in a wood barrel, making it an eyedropper.
Danny
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Please explain how you accomplish the tap and die threading.
I really like the solutions of John Albert and pierre, but will probably have to opt for that of More4dan, since the former would require purchase of a metal lathe with threading capabilities. One other idea I've been contemplating is using an Esterbrook section friction fitted in a wood barrel, making it an eyedropper.
Taps and dies would allow you to thread on a wood lathe using guides in the tailstock. It's about all I do now for threads with my metal lathe. The only exception is I do thread with the lathe to make taps for nonstandard threads, like Nib feeds and commercial front sections that are 8.5mm and 9.5mm in various pitches.
Danny
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Please explain how you accomplish the tap and die threading.
You have never operated a tap or die and have no idea how to use them ??...
How about a set of dial or digital calipers, or a outside micrometer ?
I really like the solutions of John Albert and pierre, but will probably have to opt for that of More4dan, since the former would require purchase of a metal lathe with threading capabilities. One other idea I've been contemplating is using an Esterbrook section friction fitted in a wood barrel, making it an eyedropper.
Taps and dies would allow you to thread on a wood lathe using guides in the tailstock. It's about all I do now for threads with my metal lathe. The only exception is I do thread with the lathe to make taps for nonstandard threads, like Nib feeds and commercial front sections that are 8.5mm and 9.5mm in various pitches.
Danny
Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
Please explain how you accomplish the tap and die threading.
You have never operated a tap or die and have no idea how to use them ??...
How about a set of dial or digital calipers, or a outside micrometer ?
I never used taps nor dies until I did. Poorly at first and many times after. Practice on scrap material. You will do better on acrylic or aluminum. I've never had much luck on wood. The fine threads we use for pens don't hold up well in wood. You could turn bushing from a better material and glue inside your wood then cut the threads.
A tap works like a self tapping screw that creates the inside threads as you thread it in. There is a guide that goes into the tailstock that can help keep the tap inline with the pen.
The die is a round disc with threads cut on the inside. You thread it on the outside diameter like putting a nut on a bolt. Again there are guide and holders that attach to the tail stock to keep it aligned. Alignment is critical for pen threading. Both guides can be purchased from
Tooling, parts, and accessories for bench top machinists - LittleMachineShop.com
Look up lathe tap guide and lathe die holder.
Also search this site for tutorials on kitless pens. It will show how the taps and dies are used. Google tap drill sizes to see what size the hole needs to be for tapping. Too small and the threads you cut will strip out as the tap progresses leaving a larger smooth hole.
The same will happen with the outside thread if you start with the OD too large.
Practice on scrap with similar material as your pen.
Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
Taps and dies would allow you to thread on a wood lathe using guides in the tailstock. It's about all I do now for threads with my metal lathe. The only exception is I do thread with the lathe to make taps for nonstandard threads, like Nib feeds and commercial front sections that are 8.5mm and 9.5mm in various pitches.I really like the solutions of John Albert and pierre, but will probably have to opt for that of More4dan, since the former would require purchase of a metal lathe with threading capabilities. One other idea I've been contemplating is using an Esterbrook section friction fitted in a wood barrel, making it an eyedropper.
Danny
Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
Please explain how you accomplish the tap and die threading.
You have never operated a tap or die and have no idea how to use them ??...
How about a set of dial or digital calipers, or a outside micrometer ?
Taps and dies would allow you to thread on a wood lathe using guides in the tailstock. It's about all I do now for threads with my metal lathe. The only exception is I do thread with the lathe to make taps for nonstandard threads, like Nib feeds and commercial front sections that are 8.5mm and 9.5mm in various pitches.I really like the solutions of John Albert and pierre, but will probably have to opt for that of More4dan, since the former would require purchase of a metal lathe with threading capabilities. One other idea I've been contemplating is using an Esterbrook section friction fitted in a wood barrel, making it an eyedropper.
Danny
Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
Please explain how you accomplish the tap and die threading.
You have never operated a tap or die and have no idea how to use them ??...
How about a set of dial or digital calipers, or a outside micrometer ?
Oh, I have used taps and dies on numerous occasions, but never on wood and never using the tail stock of a wood lathe. Calipers and micrometers are not foreign to me.