New improved Pen Wizard?

[PTsideshow]

Also in the current CSUSA catalog, they have as new to the catalog the Beall pen wizard. I seem to remember reading in a pen making book that they weren't being made any longer.

From the first time I had seen the end product of these in a pen making book. I thought that it would be a great item to have and play with. So my question is.

Has anybody bought a new version of the CSUSA Beall pen wizards?

On the Beall web site, says it is new and somewhat improved model with the reverse assembly people talked about on the sub forum.
:clown:

 

[Hexhead]

Still making wizards?

I just got one in the mail today,12/6/2012. And it has a new tool holder that allows you to use either a dremel or foredom.

The dremel or foredom tool that was at the back of the tool now is in the front where you can see the turning actually taking place.

It has a new depth gauge that helps you set that depth where it needs to be. Any questions give me a shout

 

[KBs Pensnmore]

Hi Hexhead, any chance of a few pics so we can see what and how they have been updated. PLEASE.:biggrin::biggrin:
Kryn

 

[Hexhead]

still trying to figure out how to up load pictures

 

[Hexhead]

I guess I can tell you the differences. Mine came reversed, in other words instead of the pen being at the back of the machine when you're turning it, it's now on the front closer to you. This makes it easier to change holes on the round wheel. The crank is also on the right-hand side.

It also came with their new depth setting attachment, it works well.

But I'm having trouble with, you drill out your blank for brass tube. The suggestion is to put the blank on the mandrel without a brass to in it. That makes it a little loose on the shaft and it's easy not to have it centered, thus deeper on one side than it does the other. Unless there's a trick out there floating around, I'm going to make some bushings that are a little tapered on the end to try to center things up.

I can understand why they don't want you putting the brass tube in there, is so the cutter doesn't get into it if you cut too deep. But like I said above it does cause some sloppiness.

 

[KBs Pensnmore]

I put the tube in WITHOUT glue, make sure it is a reasonable fit, other wise it is a pointless exercise.
Kryn

 

[Hexhead]

The new gizmo that comes with the new pen wizard that helps you adjust the depth of Cutter works great. The only problem I'm having is I adjusted it twice the little plastic screw is starting to loosen up. I have noticed that in pictures on youtube of the older models he first had brass knurled thumbscrews they have been replaced with plastic,ones.

 

[KBs Pensnmore]

Probably making them plastic, cuts down on the cost as they can be made 1000,s per hour in China. No great demand for brass knurled thumb screws.
Speaking of Knurled Nuts etc. make sure the nut on the mandrel is done really tight as the blank can rotate, if it is loose!!!! I have put another nut behind it as a lock nut, too many Oh Cr*p's.
Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year, to All Up There, from Down Under.
Kryn

 

[PTsideshow]

Thanks, nice to know the updates. If you can't find the thumb screws in brass I have seen the in stainless. You can always solder a flat washer to a slotted screw head and it will work as a thumb screw. You can even use steel as the plumbing solder works well with it.
:clown:

 

[Hexhead]

Am I bad, I went watch the video again and it turns out he does use the brass tube but just as you said he doesn't glue it in.

I was having a problem with the rope design it Kept coming out a little wavy. I thought I had all the slack out of the crankshaft, but it still had a little bit of play. I also noticed that there was a little bit of play in the black bar that the threaded shaft goes in the one connected to the crank. I took it out screw and the end of it was flat so I ground a dull point on it and reinstalled and it this took up the slack.

I also notice where the mandrel pushes onto the wheel the shaft with a wheel had about 4 1/2 thousands movement. I didn't feel the need to bushing that down to zero because when the cutter is pushing down on the pen blank it pushes all that clearance down to the bottom of the shaft hole.

All the blanks I tried to turn rope on turned out less than desirable. I cut up a bunch of extra blanks out of different wood and couldn't believe the difference, everything is coming out real nice. So it's very true the blank you're working with makes all the difference in the world of how well the wizard works. Close grained wood seems to work well.

I was using the pen wizard to do a diamond pattern. You cut it one direction and then move the gears and cut it again. I found this screw hard to get started in the other hole, so I'm going to countersink the whole and pull a slight point on the screw like I did the on other part so it'll be easier to start it.

The depth control screw is also loosening up. I noticed on the older ones that was a spring on it, so I guess I'll do that and see if it helps. I'm just not a big fan of plastic screws.