Need ideas for makkng a hand mirror

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Dan Masshardt

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I mostly turn but am dabbling in other stuff.

My aunt asked me to make a mirror with a handle to use at a dresser or whatever.

Oval Mirror so the lathe is out. :-(. Had a couple ideas there if it was round.

So I ordered a 5x7 oval beveled mirror from psi.

Here comes the issue - I don't just want to glue it on top - that would look cheap I think.

The ideas that come to mind are tracing it and them routing out the center which seems possibly painful.

Or creating a template that I could uSe with a router with bushing - probably more worthwhile if I was going to do several.

Or laminate two thinner boards together with a slot (rabbet) cut on one to accommodate the mirror - wouldn't need to be as precise...

Thoughts? Anybody elver done one?
 
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monophoto

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Hmmm - excentric turning won't do it for you because at best, that would merely produce a recess consisting of two intersecting circles.

But if you used that as a starting point, trace the shape of the oval mirror around the two circles, and then very carefully manually carve out enough additional material to make an oval recess. The key would be to keep the edges clean and sharp - the mirror would cover up the bottom.

Or you could make a trip up to Arlington, MA to visit the Schwamb Mill to see how their oval lathes work.
 

Charlie_W

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Dan,
Depends how much you love your aunt! :eek::biggrin:

I would say, use the mirror and the router bits/bushings you have to size a template and rout out a recess. This way, the mirror can be glued in after all is finished.
After the recess is routed, then cut the outside shape and rout both front and back edges. If the frame is thick enough, either sand or leave a flat at the bottom where you can drill for your turned handle tenon to fit in.

With a larger router bushing and a small bit, and the same template, you can route a small groove or two on the backside. Do this before cutting block to oval.
Hope this helps you decide. A round mirror would be much easier. You could turn both sides of the main piece.....no router, no template!....done by Christmas too!
 

ohiococonut

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Dan, I know what you mean about just gluing the mirror on the face. I wanted to make my wife one so I set about designing one and cutting it out on one of my cnc routers. It started out the handle was going to be separate but I redesigned it to be one piece.
To me it was something that needed to be forever and show what she means to me. It was very time consuming but worth every hour I spent on it. Below are a few pics.
It was cut using curly maple and finished with tung oil.
There's only one problem. If the mirror breaks, it can't be replaced.

You could draw your layout on two separate boards and using a hand router inlay the mirror. Charlie_W has the right idea and whether it's round or oval shouldn't make any difference.
You're only limited by your imagination.


 

Dan Masshardt

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I traced the mirror and cut it out on the scroll saw. It's just a touch bigger than the mirror - thinking will be okay. I have a flush trim bit coming.

We'll see how it comes out.
 

jimmyz

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My Stepfather made a pretty one, round with a 6" or so handle. The round part was two pieces of 3/16" think wood, with the mirror sandwiched between them. The entire outside was rounded over. Looked real nice.
 

GaryT45

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There was a episode of This Old House that showed a company that turned oval picture frames. They had a device that attached to a lathe that moved the blank in two directions as it rotated so that you could turn a oval shape. Google Old Schwamb Mill for more info.
 

monophoto

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Dan

I think the best glue for this purpose is a silicone adhesive. I've been using Borden's Silicone Adhesive (just cuz I had some), and I have one mirror that I've been using for four years that was assembled this way. Silicone adhesive fills any gaps that might result from the bottom of the recess not being perfectly flat, and its flexible. If you go this route, be sure that the adhesive dries clear and not white.

I've also used Shurtape-brand double-stick tape (the stuff sold at Lowes). I have a mirror that I made about a year ago that seems to be holding well, but the key is that the bottom of the recess must be flat (or more specifically, there cannot be a bump in the middle of the recess - the mirror must not 'rock'). The cloth back is flexible, and the adhesive seems to gain strength as it ages.

John Lucas' video shows a neat way to dress the edge of the recess so that wood movement will be less of a problem. On the mirrors I have made (prior to seeing John's video) I just made the recess a bit oversized.

I've bought mirrors from PSI and AC Moore - AC Moore is less expensive and they have 2" mirrors which I find to be a perfect size for mirrors designed for contact lens wearers to use in putting in their lenses. Unfortunately, they also have a sharp edge. The more expensive mirrors from PSI have a polished beveled edge, but the smallest size is 3".
 
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Dan Masshardt

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Dan I think the best glue for this purpose is a silicone adhesive. I've been using Borden's Silicone Adhesive (just cuz I had some), and I have one mirror that I've been using for four years that was assembled this way. Silicone adhesive fills any gaps that might result from the bottom of the recess not being perfectly flat, and its flexible. If you go this route, be sure that the adhesive dries clear and not white. I've also used Shurtape-brand double-stick tape (the stuff sold at Lowes). I have a mirror that I made about a year ago that seems to be holding well, but the key is that the bottom of the recess must be flat (or more specifically, there cannot be a bump in the middle of the recess - the mirror must not 'rock'). The cloth back is flexible, and the adhesive seems to gain strength as it ages. John Lucas' video shows a neat way to dress the edge of the recess so that wood movement will be less of a problem. On the mirrors I have made (prior to seeing John's video) I just made the recess a bit oversized. I've bought mirrors from PSI and AC Moore - AC Moore is less expensive and they have 2" mirrors which I find to be a perfect size for mirrors designed for contact lens wearers to use in putting in their lenses. Unfortunately, they also have a sharp edge. The more expensive mirrors from PSI have a polished beveled edge, but the smallest size is 3".

Thanks. I think I'll go with the silicone assuming I can get some locally.

I'm not sure how to tell how it will dry since it will be under the mirror.

This is a 4x6 beveled oval mirror from psi.

Thanks again!
 

Dan Masshardt

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Not amazing but not too bad for an experimental project I'll buff them yet.
 

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