I've always been curious about what level of grit to sand to. From the responses here, some sand to 400, some to 600, some to 12000, and so on. How does one know when a surface becomes too smooth from sanding that lack of adherence of finish to a wood surface will lead to flaking issues? Does this apply to hardwoods only? Does it apply to certain finishes (polyurethane, CA, etc.) only?
I generally sand from 320 to 12,000 grit. At this point, I'm hoping the pens and stoppers I've finished with CA and sold aren't returned for flaking.
This is a good post! It's made me rethink my sanding technique. Thanks for any insights.
First, I am not a know-it-all. I just play one on the internet.
But I'll take a stab at some of it. I'm no authority.. these are just the
way things are working in my head. If someone shows me a better way,
I'm all over it.
I know that like many other things, we have a tendency to fall into the
"More is better" syndrome. If 400 is good, 800 must be better. If 300dpi
is good, 28,880dpi must be better. But you reach a level of diminishing
returns at some point. For instance, the human eye can't discern over
about 600 dpi (true dpi, not Epson dpi) so having a printer with 28,000
resolution doesn't gain you anything.
I look at sanding the same way. If I can't see the scratches by eye (and
I use a magnifying visor because my eyes aren't so good) then I don't
see the need to go much further before applying a finish.
With the sanding, I might go to 12,000 on something I don't plan on
putting a finish on. For instance, oily woods and really dense woods can
polish up nicely without a finish. And I like that soft sheen it gives.
But if you plan on putting a finish on the wood, you might try some
experimenting with wood scraps (same type, preferably same piece) and
see if sanding to a higher grit stops the wood from accepting the finish.
Sanding to too high a grit can close the pores and stop the finish from
being absorbed. If you've ever over-sanded a piece of end grain (which
ought to suck up stain like a sponge) and found that the stain just won't
take, you know what I'm talking about.
I like finishes that seep into the pores, especially oils. They get into the
grain and light it up.. sort of like creating an optical channel for the light
that hits the wood. If you don't get penetration, you just see the surface
grain. (which can also be great, don't get me wrong!) But more importantly,
if the finish doesn't penetrate the wood grain, it will simply reside on the
surface. It can peel off, chip. flake etc.. because there's nothing for it
to hold on to.
If you use a penetrating finish, the liquid goes into the wood, works its
way around the wood fibers and then cures. It hardens there, locked to
the wood grain. You might scrape off the outside if you scratch hard
enough, but the finish is now part of the wood. It isn't coming off on its
own.
For a finish to be stable, it has to have something to grab onto.. something
to grip.. something to 'bite' into. Baby smooth shiny slippery smooth wood
might not be the best choice if you want a finish to adhere well.
That's also a good reason for scuffing up a coat of poly before applying the
next coat.. it gives the new coat something to hold onto.
Shellacs and lacquers melt into the previous coat, so this isn't necessary