My thoughts on bowl finishing

[Wildman]

Three ways to finish a bowl, one is food safe with oils, clear finishes products, and combination of dyes or stains & clear finishing product.

Have been linking this Jonathan Bizen article for years; will spare you a tome of knowledge have gained by reading product MSDS or SDS. Also challenge anybody to find a finishing material listed in the CFR by name which list hazards chemical & food contact!

If do research on VOC's will find government standards pretty flaky.

Food-Safe Finishes - Fine Woodworking Article

I only turn food safe bowls for people that order them, show this article because only finish with mineral oil a laxative. I provide a small bottle of the stuff to every client so they can reapply as needed. Mahoney's & Doctors walnut oils also very good products.

Dust collector (art) bowls have used all the film finishes, oil varnish blends, and wiping varnishes. Stopped using commercial oil varnish blends, because ended up with finish could not use due to age. When you add oils to resins (poly, varnish) end up with a softer finish. Stopped buying commercial wiping varnishes because could not find a product with less than 60% solvent/thinner. I will make my own using a mixture of poly or varnish and solvent thinner. Start with a 50/50 mix of each, and 2 coats equal one coat of film finish.

Like lacquer the best because of quick drying & recoating times. Stopped buying sanding sealer and just use thinned lacquer as a seal coat when necessary.

Depending upon the product you use have to pay attention to weather, temperature, and relative humidity in your area because these things will affect recoat times & curing times. Product labels are just a guide you may find drying takes shoryrt/longer in your area because of reasons already mentioned.

 

[Edgar]

Thanks, Bill - that's a very good article.

 

[Wildman]

Biggest reason for not applying clear finishes, dyes or stains on bowls or rolling pins has more to do with care and cleaning although food safety a big part of it too. Have yet to find a commercial or homemade finishing material that is dishwasher safe, hot soapy water, or doesn't scratch, chip, due to use.

Only rolling pin ever turned (French, long pasta, pastry) did not apply any finish what so ever. Customer provided wood and no finishing instructions.

I use mineral oil even though not a drying oil and reapplication is necessary on bowls to keep a matt appearance. Cost is the big factor! Never use industrial mineral oil or baby oil.

Pure drying oils like Linseed, Tung, and Walnut oils also need reapplication with use.

Linseed oil darkens wood, absorbs moisture promotes mold growth, and takes long time to dry. Other than organic food & and art supplies stores hard to find in most big box stores. Have seen ads for Boiled Linseed oil claim pure Linseed oil is non-drying that's not true. Although every can of BLO ever seen claims 100% linseed oil, but we know that is not true.

Pure Tung oil provides the best water resistance of the drying oils but need about 6 to 8 coats which take a long time to dry between coats.

Walnut oil comes mostly from the salad industry but would not run down to favorite grocery store to buy some. Stay with Mahoney's or doctor's Walnut oils.

By themselves drying oils do not penetrate wood that deeply addition of solvent/thinners allow greater penetration and speed up drying times. Think for bowls pure drying oils better way to go. Just look up what is those commerical product by reading labels or MSDS or SDS,

Many think using a friction finish technique will speed up drying times and to some extent that is true, but still need to allow oil time to penetrate wood fibers before you begin. Drying oils need oxygen to dry not heat! This process more commonly known as polymerization. When these oil polymerize a solid film is formed.

Remember to spread oily rags & paper towels to dry before throwing in the trask!

 

[Edgar]

Bill, what are your thoughts on "Feed n Wax" that's readily available at hardware stores. I believe it's a combination of beeswax, orange oil & carnauba wax.