My Plan to Make Mandrels for Kitless Pen Turning

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

magpens

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2011
Messages
15,911
Location
Canada
I'm planning to make custom mandrels for kitless pen turning ... BUT ... if they can be bought I'd prefer to buy.
So, here's my plan ... for what I think is a fairly common scenario, namely, a cap to body thread of 13mm x 0.8 triple start.

The cap internal thread would require drilling the cap with a drill bit of diameter 12.2 mm.
The internal diameter of the hole could be 12.2 mm for the full depth of the hole.
The hole would have one blind end, open at the other.
At the open end, internal threads (made with a tap) would occupy the first 7 mm, or so.

The depth of the hole (open end to blind end) would be, let's say, 60 mm as a possible example.

Let's say this mandrel is used for turning and shaping a piece of Alumilite, prepared to fit the mandrel thus:
The Alumilite could have a length of about 65 mm, and, if it's cylindrical, an O.D. of 15.5 mm or so.
The Alumilite would need to be drilled to a depth of 60 mm with a hole diameter of 12.2 mm.
At the open end of the hole, the hole would be tapped with a 13mm x 0.8 tap to a depth of 7 mm.

So the mandrel could be made having the following features:
1) a flat end, which butts up against the blind end internally
2) a uniform cylinder of diameter 12.2 mm for a length of 53 mm
3) a threaded portion of length 7 mm with 13mm x 0.8 threads having an outer diam. of 13 mm
4) a cylindrical stub of suitable diameter and length for gripping by the headstock chuck jaws ( or collet )

Does this all sound like a reasonable way to make a mandrel to support and hold the Alumilite for shaping ?

I should add that the mandrel shape that I am envisaging would be quite similar to that shown by @jalbert recently in this thread:


My example above produces a uniformly cylindrical mandrel, basically. . But the shape could be altered to suit a blank intended to have a slightly more "interesting" profile. . The mandrel design shown by @jalbert might be in the latter category, as it has a stepped cylindrical shape, possibly intended to allow the external surface of the material to have a taper, narrower at the closed end.
 
Last edited:

jalbert

Member
Joined
May 17, 2015
Messages
993
Location
Louisville, KY
Well…I definitely did not measure mine that intensively. But it should work fine. Make sure there's a nice square shoulder for the lip of the cap to butt up against when screwed on the mandrel, I.e. make the diameter of the mandrel shank a couple mm or so larger in diameter than the thread diameter.
 
Top Bottom