my first tri cornered attempt.

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triw51

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I saw a video where the turner took a cube and turning it between two points created a three cornered bowl. So I got some splatted oak cubes from Scott Butler ( IPA name SDB777) here and proceeded to give it a try.
I lost one corner where the wood was very soft but I am pleased with the results from the attempt. It will be an oil lamp, not sure what finish to put on the wood is still damp.
C & C are welcome

Here is a link to the video I watched there is also one by Capt. Eddie Castlin but do not have that link.

https://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=AkWOed9mbeYwrSVqkmLt7_6bvZx4?fr=yfp-t-250-s&toggle=1&fp=1&cop=mss&ei=UTF-8&p=turning%20a%20three%20cornered%20bowling
 

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SDB777

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Very cool!

I still haven't progressed to the point where I feel 'okay with' knuckle busters rotating on my lathe(I know, quite being a wussie). Anyone that does this type of turning has my respect!!!

Not sure on a good finish, sanding sealer to help seal those open pours(oak has them), and then a wipe-on poly or something? Because CaptEddie's juice isn't an option.



Scott (got all my knuckles) B
 

triw51

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"Not sure on a good finish, sanding sealer to help seal those open pours(oak has them), and then a wipe-on poly or something? Because CaptEddie's juice isn't an option."
The Capt. Eddie comment got me to laugh took a few seconds but I got it.
 

robutacion

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I saw a video where the turner took a cube and turning it between two points created a three cornered bowl. So I got some splatted oak cubes from Scott Butler ( IPA name SDB777) here and proceeded to give it a try.
I lost one corner where the wood was very soft but I am pleased with the results from the attempt. It will be an oil lamp, not sure what finish to put on the wood is still damp.
C & C are welcome

Here is a link to the video I watched there is also one by Capt. Eddie Castlin but do not have that link.

You done very well, considering that this was you first attempt at this type shape.

From what I can see from the wood condition, turning it without any pre-treatment of the wood was a bit risky and what happen to you with losing that corner, was expected, in fact, you were lucky to only lose that bit.

Thin CA soaking, would have been a good solution but, the ideal treatment would have been stabilization, the wood would strengthen and the chances to lose any bits are very minimal and, you would have your finishing issues pretty much resolved, the wood being stabilized would need very little to look finished and uniformly, not full of blotches from the soft spalted spots sucking any stuff you put on it, now...!

Sometimes, to reduce the amount of juice wastage on the stabilization of a blanks that will be turned into a bowl, platter or any "normal" wood turning shapes/pieces, I rough turn the piece, removing most the excess wood and before it becomes "fragile" and then I stabilize it. Its quicker and more efficient for the juice to penetrate, saving considerable amount of juice that would be lost into shavings, otherwise...!

Hope this helps for later...!

Cheers
George
 

Charlie_W

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William, Great job on the dish! It has some awesome spalting and will look cool with finish.

Lately, I have been using a couple of coats of Tung Oil Finish followed by either Beall buffing or applying a paste wax and rubbing with some 4/0. steel wool and buff with a cotton T-shirt rag.

Here is a pic of a tri corner I started back in April......and is still waiting for me to get back to it. This one was punky so I was using thin CA on it as I went.
 

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triw51

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I saw a video where the turner took a cube and turning it between two points created a three cornered bowl. So I got some splatted oak cubes from Scott Butler ( IPA name SDB777) here and proceeded to give it a try.
I lost one corner where the wood was very soft but I am pleased with the results from the attempt. It will be an oil lamp, not sure what finish to put on the wood is still damp.
C & C are welcome

Here is a link to the video I watched there is also one by Capt. Eddie Castlin but do not have that link.

You done very well, considering that this was you first attempt at this type shape.

From what I can see from the wood condition, turning it without any pre-treatment of the wood was a bit risky and what happen to you with losing that corner, was expected, in fact, you were lucky to only lose that bit.

Thin CA soaking, would have been a good solution but, the ideal treatment would have been stabilization, the wood would strengthen and the chances to lose any bits are very minimal and, you would have your finishing issues pretty much resolved, the wood being stabilized would need very little to look finished and uniformly, not full of blotches from the soft spalted spots sucking any stuff you put on it, now...!

Sometimes, to reduce the amount of juice wastage on the stabilization of a blanks that will be turned into a bowl, platter or any "normal" wood turning shapes/pieces, I rough turn the piece, removing most the excess wood and before it becomes "fragile" and then I stabilize it. Its quicker and more efficient for the juice to penetrate, saving considerable amount of juice that would be lost into shavings, otherwise...!

Hope this helps for later...!

Cheers
George

George can you stabilize wet wood? This wood was very damp. Thanks William
 

keithbyrd

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great job on the turning. If its still wet you can get some really distorted drying or cracking. Put it in a paper bag with shaving and let it dry naturally over a few weeks or soak it in DNA for a quick dry!
 

SDB777

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robutacion

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I saw a video where the turner took a cube and turning it between two points created a three cornered bowl. So I got some splatted oak cubes from Scott Butler ( IPA name SDB777) here and proceeded to give it a try.
I lost one corner where the wood was very soft but I am pleased with the results from the attempt. It will be an oil lamp, not sure what finish to put on the wood is still damp.
C & C are welcome

Here is a link to the video I watched there is also one by Capt. Eddie Castlin but do not have that link.

You done very well, considering that this was you first attempt at this type shape.

From what I can see from the wood condition, turning it without any pre-treatment of the wood was a bit risky and what happen to you with losing that corner, was expected, in fact, you were lucky to only lose that bit.

Thin CA soaking, would have been a good solution but, the ideal treatment would have been stabilization, the wood would strengthen and the chances to lose any bits are very minimal and, you would have your finishing issues pretty much resolved, the wood being stabilized would need very little to look finished and uniformly, not full of blotches from the soft spalted spots sucking any stuff you put on it, now...!

Sometimes, to reduce the amount of juice wastage on the stabilization of a blanks that will be turned into a bowl, platter or any "normal" wood turning shapes/pieces, I rough turn the piece, removing most the excess wood and before it becomes "fragile" and then I stabilize it. Its quicker and more efficient for the juice to penetrate, saving considerable amount of juice that would be lost into shavings, otherwise...!

Hope this helps for later...!

Cheers
George

George can you stabilize wet wood? This wood was very damp. Thanks William

William,

I believe, you mean wet and not green, right...??? I would think that, if the wood is spalted is because it was cut some time ago and even though may not be totally dry from green, I think in your case, the wood is wet from water, correct...?

No, you can not stabilize wet or green wood using products such as the Cactus Juice, the wood has to be dry as a bone to work well so, drying water wet wood is easy and fast, you just put in in an oven with temps between 70 and 90 degrees celsius, until the wood stop losing weight, then is when you put it in the stabilizing solution)

If the wood is still a little green and wet or not, you can dry it in the exact same way...!

If you don't want to go through the whole process of drying and stabilizing the wood, in cases such as that blank you used, one corner of it was obvious that the wood was very spalted and soft/punky, this normally means that, that are can very easily tear out or simple blow appart under rotation/turning so, if I was to turn such a piece and not trust that corner, I would gard a heat blower or a hair dryer and heat/dry that area the best I could so that I could pour some thin CA into it and allow it to stick/dry before turning it. I doubt that you would be able to reach very deep so, you would re-soak that area, as soon as you had remove most of the CA'ed area.

Slow speed and very sharp tools, would be a must and or, the use of the Flap disk, to shape the piece, I doubt that, anything would fall off...!

With that said, there is no such thing as a guarantee that nothing bad would happen, sometimes regardless of how well we try to prevent 'OOps" they happen and is nothing no one can do about it so, trying your best, is the only thing you can do...!

Cheers
George
 

SDB777

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I would not recommend ever putting Southern Red Oak into a oven to dry it...it will split wide open everytime. SRO needs to air dry out of direct sunlight. The drying can be 'accelerated' some by placing the end grain on a vertical 'bearing', gravity will help draw the moisture out.

The tree I took these pieces from was alive and growing two years ago(tree was rootballed and I 'rescued it from the wood chipper') , and it measured a little over 49" DBH. It's green from where this chunk came from....as SRO will often start spalting while still producing leaves and looking just fine(alive).


If possible, the other three chunks....try mounting them on the lathe so you won't have to have the fragile endgrain as the 'wing'. Looking forward to seeing some of the other 'chunks' turned!





Scott (I know nothing about AU wood) B
 
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