Mini Wax Poly and Pre-Stain

[Squeaky1]

I am new to pen making so here are my first pens making.

I watched the video using Mini Wax Poly from the library. I also watched mini wax video and they talk about Pre-Stain by MiniWax.

If I am not staining the pen just applying the miniwax poly to give it a nice finish is it necessary to use the Pre-stain?

I do have some blanks that would look better stained should I use the Pre-stain on them before I apply the Mini wax stain. I would do step #3 and then apply the miniwax poly.

I am more familiar with mini wax but I not sure if I am missing something by watching the two different videos.

I am using Gorilla Glue for the the tubes.

 

[monophoto]

The primary reason Min Wax produces how-to videos is to sell Min Wax products.

That said, I do like to put a sanding sealer under Min Wax WOP. The sealer helps fill the pores in the wood to produce a smoother surface, and also a more uniform WOP application. I use Zinsser shellac-based sealer.

 

[TonyL]

I am very thankful for your (plural) post. I am literally 6 inches from a small can of Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane (clear gloss). I purchased it Friday night at HD after speaking to a very experienced member about alternative and perhaps more durable finishes. I would love to hear more about your experiences and will research other posts. In the meantime. I will follow the directions on the can .

 

[Ross]

I don't normally stain my pens but I do quite often use stain on carvings. The pre stain helps prevent splotching when applying the stain. you simply apply the pre stain then apply the stain and rub it out until you get the result you want. The pre stain helps prevent end grain absorbing too much stain and ending up being way too dark.

 

[Squeaky1]

I put 4 coats of mini wax poly. Each time I sanded it using a fine sandpaper. The blanks are coming out looking better.

 

[Jim Burr]

And you have no question. Your statements are informative...but do you have a question? Is it covered in the Library or Search?

 

[Brian G]

Marian asked two questions in her first post. She also stated that she watched a video from the library.

What what the point of your post, Jim?

 

[Jim Burr]

Marian asked two questions in her first post. She also stated that she watched a video from the library.

What what the point of your post, Jim?

I saw one question Brian, Thanks for pointing out the Library statement.
Still wondering what the question is. My response would be finish in your own fashion and try several things and see what you like. Work for you?

 

[Brian G]

First question (line 3) was if not staining, just poly, use pre-stain?

Second question (line 4) was if staining, need pre-stain?

Maybe missing punctuation threw you. :biggrin:

My answer is similar to the answer by Ross.

 

[TonyL]

This is great stuff (the process explanation). How long are you allow the sealer and/or poly to dry in between coats.

Thank you!

 

[dogrunner]

prestain conditioner is used in soft woods or woods that have a big cell strucker it loads up the cell with the finish so it can absorb as much stain. you can make your own with 1 part
boiled linseed oil to 9 parts mineral sprits .as for poly its self sealing so you don't need a separate sealer again you can use a 50/50 mix as a sanding sealer if you want it sands a little easer. just be carefully with poly if you try to polish it . if you burn through on coat into the next you will get a witness line

 

[Squeaky1]

Not very long as it is fast drying. I love the finish though. Very simple

 

[TonyL]

The instructions on my can of fast-dry recommend 3 to 4 hours between coats and light handling after 24 hours. Is that what you are doing and with what are you applying it with...if you don't mind my asking?