Micro Mesh CLEANING

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I put them in a large tupperware container filled half-way with water and one drop of dish soap. I seal the tupperware container and shake the heck out of it. I then drain the water, fill half way again with fresh water and rinse. I do a final rinse under running water then pat dry.
 
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Originally posted by underdog
<br />If I've got lacquer clogging one of my pads up, can I use lacquer thinner to get it off? Or will that melt it?

Ohh! I don't think <b>I</b> would be bold enough to try it with my MM. Why don't <b>you</b> give it a go and report the results. [}:)][;)]
 

GBusardo

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Originally posted by underdog
<br />If I've got lacquer clogging one of my pads up, can I use lacquer thinner to get it off? Or will that melt it?

I would bet that what ever is holding the abrasive to the cloth would also melt. Sorry, can't help you
 

carverken

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tupperware is rather pricey, I use the gladware "disposable". just a couple of bucks at the store, wallyworld, target, etc. plus is keeps the boss happy.[;)]
 

Dario

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I wash mine with dish soap, water and toothbrush. Works like a charm (fast, easy and cheap).

I sanded all my lacquer finished pens with MM no problem...just give it time to cure...same is true with CA or any other finish [;)].
 

ctEaglesc

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Originally posted by underdog
<br />I'm assuming you shouldn't try to sand lacquer with MM.... No one but me has been foolish enough to do this I guess?[:p]
Originally posted by woodbutcher
<br />Most finishes have a requied curing time before final finish is completed.
Jim
Originally posted by Dario
<br />I wash mine with dish soap, water and toothbrush. Works like a charm (fast, easy and cheap).

I sanded all my lacquer finished pens with MM no problem...just give it time to cure...same is true with CA or any other finish [;)].

Originally posted by LanceD
<br />You won't have any problems sanding a laquer finished pen after the laquer has cured.

To answer your question accurately requires more information.
How heavy are you applying the lacquer?
How much pressure are you applying with the MM?
HOw long does the MM remain in one area that your are"sanding"?
Time is arelative thing
Lacquer is a type of "plastic". Heat is an enemy of plastic.The longer you apply the mm in one area the more heat you build up in that area and on the MM.
At this point you are not abrading you are melting the surface.

I apply lacquer and sand with MM after each appplication in a hour.
I don't have any lacqer embedded MM, I wash it in a mesh bag in the washer.
I ask that the bag of mm be put with my "grubby clothes".I then request that it be put in all the rest of the loads in the final rinse cycles only.
As far as sanding mm and the statement "once it has cured"
The thicker the application of the lacquer and the harder the pressure you apply it with will have an effect on your results.
Based on what I have read in Russes articles on finishing I have noticed that sanding sealers do indeed give the surface of the pen a "cloudy" look.If I am using Deft lacquer, that is my sealer.I apply light coats on with an air brush in a "mist" It dries in less than an hour.I then go through all the "grits" of my MM.
When I have dust from the wood on the MM and not the qhite dust from The lacquer and the surface is smooth then I know I have a surace ready for my final finish steps.
This may take as many as 5or 6 or more coats of lacquer.I use a 50-50 mix of lacquer and apply ina MIST.Just enough to barley wet the blank, it will dry almost instantly.
I revolve the lathe by hand for a minute or two then turn it on at the slowest speed for about 10 minutes.
After a total of an hour elapsed time I run the MM over it and sand length wise between grits.I also blow it off with my compressor between grits also.At this point the blank will appear "polished" but you are just beginning.There are probably open posres that need to be leveled.
I repeat this as many times as necessary to get an even uniform flat smooth surface.

Only then will I apply "build" coats. Thsoe get the same treatment but after a a few coats you will be able to skip the more coarser coats of MM.
Not every pen I do gets this treatment.I also use Unoxol water based lacquer which is far easire and quickerw/ nice results.
The application of multiple coats of lacquer will show you the "soul" of the wood.
I cannot explain it.Once you have done one , you will understand.
If you want a thick gloppy lacquer finish that will give a glosss learn hou to dip it and be done with it.
THEN you can wait a few days for it to cure and MM.The results won't be the same.
 

ctEaglesc

Passed Away Jul 4, 2008
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Originally posted by TBone
<br />Eagle, where do you purchase water based lacquer. I can find lots of info about it but no where to purchase. It's not in my local stores Thanks
I guess people on the site have been using Enduro with good results provided you follow the write up about it.I haven't tried it.
I contacted a company called Moby Dick supplies.It is a ships chandlery.
The product is called Unoxol.
It is quite different in its properties than a water based urethane.
Easy to apply.
Based on D's testing they put together a Sample pack.
DC tried the wipe on I used the spray.
I have gotten great results by wiping on the spray.Get the sealer and the lacquer.
Moby Dick Supplie, Unaxol
 
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