Making laminated blanks.

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
M

mach9

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2009
Messages
103
Location
Eastern NC
Not even sure if that's the right term. Had a lady order 9 pens today. Deal is, she brought her own wood. These are pieces left over from where her late father-in-law had made the grand kids some wooden toys. They're small planks of cedar, only a little over .200" thick. I'm going to have to glue 4 of them together to get them thick enough for a usable blank. I have access to a planer and am thinking about skimming them very lightly. Would you guys suggest doing that? Also, what glue would you recommend? Just trying to make sure I get nice, tight joints. Any other suggestions are appreciated.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
fiferb

fiferb

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2006
Messages
2,440
Location
Ninety Six, SC, USA.
Do you have enough to get nine pens out of it after you've glued it all together? One possibility is to use the pieces as segments into a pen. Like using her wood as the celtic knot inlay, or stripes. It all depends on how much wood you have.
 
M

mach9

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2009
Messages
103
Location
Eastern NC
I've got enough of the wood to do 9 or more pens. I've got plenty of time so I'll probably go with yellow glue. I'm not sure what a "thickness sander" is. Edumacate me. :)
 
toddlajoie

toddlajoie

Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
1,728
Location
Feeding Hills MA
I like to think of a thickness sander as a planer that uses sandpaper instead of knives.

83507_L.jpg
 
jttheclockman

jttheclockman

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
19,150
Location
NJ, USA.
Thickness sander would not be needed if you are just doing this group. Doesn't make sense to spend that kind of money. Now if you have access to one then that is another story.

I would avoid a planer because of the thiness and softness of this wood.

Now you call the wood "planks" Just about what size pieces are we talking here because that will determine how to go about this. ???

If I were you I would cut the pieces into 1" strips about 6" long. I would then take some adhesive backed sandpaper 120grit and stick it to a flat surface such as a piece of glass or a large tile or some MDF board. I then would take a pencil and make many lines across both sides of the strips. Then I would rub them across the sandpaper makeing sure you are putting pressure on the entire strip equally. A strip that small should be no problem. When all pencil marks are gone that side is flat. Turn over and do the same thing on the other side. If you are putting 4 pieces together you only need to do both sides on 2 strips. The other 2 you can just do one side but make sure you remember which side you sand to glue to the others. I would then glue all 4 strips with yellow carpenters glue and clamp them. Clamping them so that equal pressure is applied and the strips stay even. I would use a piece of aluminum angle which you could get at Home depot and place some wax paper on it so the strips do not stick to the angle. I am sure you can figure out how to clamp them from there. If you need suggestions just ask.

The strips do not have to be same thickness so that is why i suggest just try concenmtrating on flatness. Hope this helps.
 
M

mach9

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2009
Messages
103
Location
Eastern NC
Thanks for the suggestions guys. Don't have access to a thickness sander so I'm probably going to try JT's suggestion on the sanding. I've got plenty of options as far as clamping goes, so no problem there. I'll post pics when I get some done. Thanks again!!!!
 
IPD_Mrs

IPD_Mrs

Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2007
Messages
2,048
Location
Zionsville, Indiana
You might also consider drizzling the blanks with CA ever so often when you are turning them. This will help prevent the blank from blowing apart when you turn it and will make the wood a little harder and easier to finish.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Previous Next
Top Bottom