Making kitless pens

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

Geophyrd

Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
84
Location
Yardley, PA
So I want to try going kitless...

I went out and bought a tap and die set this weekend, an Ace Hanson 39 piece kit. I got it for $40. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find any instructions on how to use it.

Any advice? Any links to instructions/manuals or a basic how to? There's codes on the taps and dies and I don't know what they mean.

Also, will these cut wood as well as metals and plastics?

Sorry to sound ignorant...I'm learning.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

ldb2000

Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2007
Messages
5,381
Location
Laurence Harbor, NJ, USA.
I would advise you to do some reading on the net (Google is yor best friend) and learn a little about the tools and process before you get started . Making a kitless pen isn't rocket science but knowledge of the tools and how to use them is very important . Taps and Dies aren't all that you need to go kitless . To do it right you will need a way to hold the taps and dies to get the threads to be square to the body of the pen . You will also need to have tools for holding the blanks for turning , pin chucks , closed end mandrels or jam chucks , and a scroll or collet chuck to hold these tools . You will also need to have the proper turning techniques to turn your blanks without blowing them up , not having tubes to support the blanks requires what I call "Finesse Techniques" which means , sharp tools and very light cuts .
Depending on the TPI of the taps and dies , wood isn't the best material to try and thread , the wood fibers of most wood will tear and give rough threads if it will thread at all . Lucite , Ebonite and Metals are much better for threading . Most of us use one of those materials for the threaded couplers for wood bodied pens .
There really isn't much information or tutorials on kitless pens , we just wing it and learn as we are going . The Advanced penmaking forum here is one of , if not the largest compilations on kitless pens on the net . I would advise you to read it from beginning to end .
Hope this helps a little , read , ask questions and experiment . Kitless is a ball to do and the pens you make will be the most rewarding ones you will ever make , and best of all , they will be ALL YOURS .
Feel free to PM me if you need any help .
 

RAdams

Banned
Joined
Apr 5, 2009
Messages
2,983
If you do a search of the site you will find even more very useful info. Especially look for posts from Skiprat on tap and die etc.


Hint number one... Now you will need more tools to go with the tap and die set, and to maximize their performance, and ease of use.
 

mredburn

IAP Activities Manager
Staff member
Joined
Jul 5, 2009
Messages
8,754
Location
Fort Myers FL
THe tap and die SETS are just that, you should have 1 die and 1 tap that match for example, 3/8-16. THE first is the diameter of the rod the die is meant to cut threads on. The matching tap 3/8-16 will thread the hole to match and should have a drill size marked either on the tap or on the box it came in. If not there are charts all over the web that give you that information. I personally have a hard time reading sizes printed on a tap.
http://www.victornet.com/reference/Tap_Drill.html

Try tapping a piece of scrap wood that you want to make your pen out of to see if it will do what you want. As Butch says wood is not the best material for threading.
you might want to make the threaded pieces as brass inserts for your pens.

Mike
 

BKelley

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2010
Messages
891
Location
Tucker, Georgia, 30084
You first need to be familar with threading systems. Go to your local library and ask for any machinist material or books. Go for the elementary instructions so that you may learn from the ground up. The first number on your tap or die will be the diameter of the thread, the next number will be how many threads there are per inch.
For instance, a 10-32 tap will be 10 in diameter and the 32 will be 32 threads per inch. The Machinist Handbook is excellent reading and contains a wealth of info
 

rherrell

Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2006
Messages
6,337
Location
Pilot Mountain, NC
The problem you'll have with dies from the hardware store is that they are most likely the "hexagon" shaped ones. To do threading correctly on the lathe you'll need to put the dies in a holder and so far I haven't found a holder that will accept the hex dies. I use this one..........
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2314&category=

Also, the taps in those kits usually don't have centering holes in them. That's important too, they keep the tap straight when advancing. I use this in the tailstock mounted in a drill chuck.........
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1963&category=935142539

These two tools will make your life soooooooooo much easier!!:wink:
 

ldb2000

Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2007
Messages
5,381
Location
Laurence Harbor, NJ, USA.
A kit like that will give you a good starting point to cut threads , but as I said earlier you are going to need other things to go with them . The holders that come with the set are not going to easily hold and cut straight threads in a kitless pen . To cut them straight you will need a drill chuck to hold the taps in your tailstock and a die holder to hold the dies in your tailstock . You will also need some way to hold your pen body and cap , a scroll chuck will work but a collet chuck is a much better way .
Also you should know that while you can use those taps and dies to start and practice , most pens use a Multi-start threading on the cap and body . These are used to reduce the number of turns it takes to thread the cap on and off , they also reduce the actual thread height so the threads look and feel better in the hand .

Edit ; Here's a link to a die holder for cutting straight threads http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2314&category=
 
Last edited:

rherrell

Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2006
Messages
6,337
Location
Pilot Mountain, NC
The kit you linked to shows it just includes NC (coarse) threads. I find those threads a little "sloppy" for fine or small work like pens. I always use NF (fine) threads for small stuff, but that's just me.:wink::biggrin:
 
Top Bottom